The CYA was determined at the pool store, she mentioned that "it wasn't the highest she'd seen" so I'm assuming that they could read it higher?
Water is very green - Leslie's says "we don't have a clue"
- Thread starter threekidsmum
- Start date
"Primed" is what the motor is when all the air is evacuated and it is moving water efficiently. It's tough to keep it primed when the water is below the skimmer because the connection at the vacuum hose will start to pull air, which causes the pump to lose prime. Running the garden hose over the connection keeps it submerged and air tight.
To tell how many gallons that drop is we'd have to know the square feet of the surface of the pool. Sq ft x depth x 7.48 = Gallons.
Their strip scanner can pretend to read it higher, just like it can pretend to be accurate to 1 ppm.
To tell how many gallons that drop is we'd have to know the square feet of the surface of the pool. Sq ft x depth x 7.48 = Gallons.
Their strip scanner can pretend to read it higher, just like it can pretend to be accurate to 1 ppm.
Ok, so regarding "priming" since we have removed water past the skimmer (pump has been off the whole time) will I need to "re-prime" the pump/motor?
Hi and welcome to TFP!!
Once the water is back up to operational level, you should be able to just turn on the pump and it will still have it's prime :-D
The others have been giving you excellent advice
If your cya is now down to an acceptable level, you're ready to start turning the swam back into a pool! As you read through the Pool School article on this you'll realize the importance of the FAS/DPD chlorine test and why everyone's recommending the TF100 or Taylor K- 2006 test kit (I doubt anyone could provide faster shipping or better service than Duraliegh :!: )
I wish you well with this! We're always here to help pool owners with their issues 8)
Once the water is back up to operational level, you should be able to just turn on the pump and it will still have it's prime :-D
The others have been giving you excellent advice
If your cya is now down to an acceptable level, you're ready to start turning the swam back into a pool! As you read through the Pool School article on this you'll realize the importance of the FAS/DPD chlorine test and why everyone's recommending the TF100 or Taylor K- 2006 test kit (I doubt anyone could provide faster shipping or better service than Duraliegh :!: )
I wish you well with this! We're always here to help pool owners with their issues 8)
What I did is figure out the surface area of my pool, then figure out how many gallons per vertical foot. My pool's area is about 600 sq ft, so each vertical foot is 600 cu ft, and there are 748 gal per 100 cu ft, so each vertical foot is 6 x 748 = 4488 which I round to 4500.threekidsmum said:
Alternatively, to get 100 cu ft I'd need 1/6 vertical foot (2"). 100 cu ft is about 750 gal. (Really brings home how fuzzy the pool volume calculation is, if a 2" change in depth is worth 750 gal.)
--paulr
You can note the water meter reading as you refill and when you end to find out how much you put in on the refill.
anonapersona said:
That is what I did :-D
Take another water sample to leslie's and have the double check the numbers. Also invest in your own test kit. My wife battled with me over spending $50 for a decent test kit (Leslie's does it free was her arguement.)
I now get compliments from her and my friends on a daily basis that the water is crystal clear. I give credit where credit is due and tell everyone about this forum and BBB.
Now if the darn weather would just cooperate so I can use the thing that would be great
