Using Chlorine Tabs - Good idea vs. Bad idea

[McGene]

We've been in our house with a pool for just over a year -- basically, one season. So far maintaining the pool has not been difficult. However, I am a bit confused and concerned about the use of chlorine tabs.

To raise my FC level I use Drytec Calcium Hypochlorite Granular -- 68% strength. I have also been using 3" tabs to stabilize the chlorine. My initial understanding is that chlorine can be depleted very quickly by the sun (and we get plenty here in FL!), so some stabilization is needed.

I'd like to reconsider this approach in light of the TFPC . I would welcome input from those well schooled in the TFPC approach. I do use Baking Soda already so I may be a good candidate for the BBB or what is now preferred TFPC.

Thanks for your input.

Gene

 

[woodyp]

Welcome to the forum. Do you have one of our recommended test kits? ACCURATE test results along with our recommended levels for your type of pool will let you know if you've added too much calcium or cya (stabilizer) with what you've been using so far.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Step 0 - Fill out your signature line with your pool equipment and details (no one can help you if we don't know what we're dealing with...)

Step 1 - Get one of the recommended test kits and test your water yourself....it all starts with self-testing

Step 2 - Post your test results and ask questions

Pretty simple really. There's just one thing you need to do - stay out of the pool store! The advice given at most pool stores is geared more towards selling you chemicals you don't need and draining your wallet as fast as possible in the process....

Welcome

 

[needsajet]

The most recommended test kit is this one: TFTestkits.net

You'll save back the cost of the test kit in less than a swimming season. The TFPC method enables use of the lowest cost pool chemicals. One example is chlorinating liquid or bleach instead of stabilized chlorine in tabs or calcium hypochlorite, which are more expensive ways to replenish chlorine. So it's a win-win! Sparkly clean pool and low cost

 

[McGene]

Because I'm color blind -- I use a digital kit ColorQ Pro 7-Plus. I purchased it some time ago to use with my spa. As long as I replace the reagents regularly, it seems to give accurate readings. I'll update my profile with pool details.

11,500 gallons in-ground. Not sure of the material -- not vinyl I'm sure.

 

[duraleigh]

To answer your original question on chlorine, the answer is "It depends".

Like most subjects there is not the simplest of answers. Please read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. Read it slowly and absorb the information contained. You'll find that you can use tabs, liquid chlorine and others often in combination to give you the desired levels you are looking for.

 

[McGene]

Thank you, Dave. I have been successful with my current approach. But got overly concerned about use of tabs and their affect on CYA. I guess, if it ain't broke, I won't mess with the success I'm having so far. I'll read the the reference you recommended.
Regards,
-gene

 

[triptyx]

Effectively, you don't know if it's broke or not right now. You may not know until you have a giant uncontrollable algae breakout and a green pool. It can actually happen nearly overnight in the right conditions - and Florida can definitely produce those conditions.

Start by reading up, follow the steps provided by JoyfulNoise above, and please get us a complete set of numbers as soon as is feasible for you. Those numbers will allow us to help you figure out where you are right now, and what your next step forward is.

Readings we need:
Free Chlorine (FC):
Combined Chlorine (CC):
pH:
Total Alkalinity (TA):
Calcium Hardness (CH):
Cyanuric Acid (CYA):

 

[GaryT58]

Hi Gene,

I also have the ColorQ Pro7 and it works very well. The issue with using the tablets long term is that they will continue to build up you cyanuric acid (cyn) level, which means that the amount of free chlorine you need also needs to increase. Eventually you get to a point where the tablet will simply stop working because the cyn level is too high to allow the free chlorine to work. So things will look good until they aren't, and you could be swimming in water that is not sanitized, which could cause sickness. There are many articles here on the subject. The only way to solve this condition when it happens is to replace a portion (sometime very large) of your water, or hire a reverse osmosis service to remove the excess cyn. So if you don't mind having to empty out major amounts of water on a regular basis, you could stay with tabs.

In general, the suggested methods of regular sanitation is regular old chlorine (not scented or low-splash) or using a salt water chlorine generator (swg). You can add bleach manually every day, or get a pump system that adds automatically, or the swg will convert salt water into chlorine. You can read up as a starter on it here. It can seem overwhelming at first, but maintaining becomes easy, and you will be rewarded with a sparking pool and not having to be concerned about sanitation if you follow it and take regular readings.

Regards,

Gary

 

[PebblePool]

Welcome to TFP

I've learned a lot about pool chemistry here. Taking your own measurements is the key to saving yourself money.

Example: We are taking water samples to the pool store for warranty record and one day they said that our TA was 70 and two days later they said that it was 115. I had only been adding acid to keep my pH within range, so I knew that 115 reading from the pool store was bogus since I had been doing my own TA titrations (my TA was 70 which was within PT's recommended range for curing).

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Gene, welcome to TFP. Your questions are interesting in that you've been using Calhypo which adds calcium to the pool along with the chlorine, and tablets which add CYA to the pool along with the chlorine. So many people find later that those two ingredients have accumulated to such a level as to cause them problems down the road.

BUT.....as you live in FL, with frequent rains, your pool may be benefitting from the rain water dilution. Do you have to drain water at times from your pool after big rainstorms? This helps keep your levels from getting too high (although it also may lower other chem levels you'd just prefer not to lose... c'est la vie!)

Testing your water often enough to monitor these changes is the only way to know where you stand. Get a reliable test kit. And if all your tests stay within normal limits just continue doing what you're doing!

Yippee

 

[buzzard302]

Adding 3" chlorine tablets is also adding cya (stabilizer). The stabilizer stays in the pool water (it does not evaporate out). You want a certain level of stabilizer, going too high can have negative effects. So when your stabilizer level is low, it's ok to float tablets. But if your stabilizer level is already high, you want to switch to another form of chlorination. Liquid chlorine and salt water generators will chlorinate without adding additional stabilizer.

Basically, read pool school and get a good test kit. Once you have those two pieces of knowledge, it becomes very simple to maintain the pool.