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CovingtonPoolGuy said:
Kits here! :D Now what? :confused:
Click to expand...

You run out to your pool and telling it YOU are in charge now! LOL

Once it accepts that you are the boss you take a sample of the water using a plastic bottle or cup (NO glass allowed by the pool).

You will need sunlight to do the CYA test so hold off on that one just yet. Here is a link to help along with the videos posted above. (THANKS Caco!) Pool School - Extended Test Kit Directions

Here are some of MY tips:

PH-I hold a white plastic plate up behind the tube. I hold it at shoulder or so height with my elbows slightly bent. I pull the plate back and forth until I have a color match. I do my test under my overhead stove light as it is very bright.

TA-it will "flash" red each time you add a drop. Do not stop until the color changes and holds the change.

Most of the colors are "ish" colors as in pinkish, blueish, etc.

CYA-Oh how I hate this test :roll: so here is my way to save my sanity! Allow the water to warm up some inside. Now go outside in the sun. Turn your back to the sun, hold the tube at your tummy. Now pour the mixture to the first line (100) GLANCE into the tube (do NOT stare) then look away, glance in again. IF you see the dot pour to the next line and GLANCE in again. Repeat until you cannot see the dot at a GLANCE! To dial in the number I do take out enough water to get it between the two numbers. If you can do not see the dot then you should call your CYA at the highest (as in highest value) number.

Let us know how it goes.

:hug:
Kim:kim:
 
Kim,

When I do a pH test, I give it to my wife and have her read it. She is way better at colors than I am. :)

The titrations are easier for me.

kimkats said:
PH-I hold a white plastic plate up behind the tube. I hold it at shoulder or so height with my elbows slightly bent. I pull the plate back and forth until I have a color match. I do my test under my overhead stove light as it is very bright.
Click to expand...
 
We did the tests last night and I think I'm ok but not perfect. We will be redoing the tests again this weekend to try and verify the results.

FC = 20 Yes it's high. I expected this from reading about others that use pucks for their clorination.
CC = ? I couldn't get a good result, I believe it may be due to my high FC.
pH = 7.4
TA = 70
CYA = 120 We did this test at night using the light in the room. It may be closer to 100 under better lighting.

Any suggestions are welcome!

A great big THANK YOU for all of your help!

 
When you say you couldn't get a good result for CC, it's pretty simple once you understand it.

After you finish with the FC test, you add 5 drops of the FC-0003 reagent. If the water remains clear (or milky white), you have 0 CC. If it turns pink at all, you add drops of the original R0871 reagent until it's clear/milky white again.

What specific problem were you having with the CC test? What was it/wasn't it doing that it was supposed to do? :)
 
FC of over 10 will affect the ph test, it will read high. So you will need to retest that once your FC level comes down

The CYA test is a tricky one and great lighting is essential to get a good result. The directions state
Stand outdoors with your back to the sun and hold the view tube at about waist level.
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However you can repeat the test several times with the same mix by pouring it back and forth between the mixing container and the viewing tube. I usually do this 2 or 3 times until I am happy with the result

Extended directions are in pool school here :https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/220-CYA
 
You do NOT want any CC so I am betting you are good on that one!

FC is high but with your CYA that high that is a good thing for right now. Here is a chart for you: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

As you can see if the CYA is 100+ your FC SHOULD be 11-13 to keep your pool clear. It can be as high as 38 and still be safe to swim. (CYA acts as a buffer for the FC. The more CYA you have the more FC you can have and everything and everyone safe.)

You will have to drain some of your pool to get the CYA down. Drain and refill are the only way to lower CYA and CH (which you do not need to worry about with a vinyl pool and no heater).

Have you looked at and played with Pool Math (top of page in blue oval) at all? There is a learning curve so take your time. When you go to put your gals in the pool size do NOT put in the comma. Pool Math does not like it :roll:

CYA test-you can cut your pool water in half with tap water and see what your CYA is that way by doubling the findings when you do that. There is a 15 +/- on this test.

I hope I covered everything. Let me know if there is anything I did not cover or does not make sense.

Kim:kim:

- - - Updated - - -

Caco said:
FC of over 10 will affect the ph test, it will read high (i think). So you will need to retest that once your FC level comes down.

The CYA test is a tricky one and great lighting is essential to get a good result.

However you can repeat the test several times with the same mix by pouring it back and forth between the mixing container and the viewing tube. I usually do this 2 or 3 times until I am happy with the result

Extended directions are in pool school here :https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/220-CYA
Click to expand...

AWESOME post ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ good catch and advice! THANKS!

I was coming back to say take any and all puck/tablets out of the inline tube. IF there is only a small amount left to dissovle don't bother BUT if it is full..............hold your breath and get them out. Use care when you open the top as they can be "fumy". Use your best adult judgement to be safe.

Kim:kim:
 

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Thanks Triptyx, I believe I have no CC. I thought it had to turn pink, but it wouldn't.

Now I have a new issue. The multiport valve housing is cracked where the pressure gauge screws in. Now I know why they didn't replace the broken pressure gauge. I'll be trying to repair the crack tomorrow. If not than it will be shut down until I can get a replacement. Then I will have to VERY CAREFULLY replace the multiport valve. That doesn't look like fun.

Pools are worse than a boat!

Thank you all for your help. Any advice is appreciated!
Aaron
 
That's disappointing. Threaded metal fittings tightened into female plastic threads is one of the bigger risks for damage. A few wraps of teflon tape or pipe dope is helpful, and then only tightening enough to prevent a leak. I hope you're able to fix it without too much bother.
 
CovingtonPoolGuy said:
Pools are worse than a boat!
Click to expand...

LOL, I feel like that sometimes too! I get most of my parts online, and compare a lot of different retailers.

A few things I learned about pool plumbing is to use universal joints around the pump and filter for easy removal, and use teflon tape and don't overtighten threaded connections.

I probably go through a pressure gauge every year, I buy the Hayward branded gauge but they don't seem to be made very well. I remember the pressure gauge on my parent's AG vinyl pool lasted a decade.
 
How long should the pump run for during a 24 hour period? The pool company currently has the timer running from 7am until 7pm. That's most likely due to the inline chlorination. Since my FC is high, should I run the pump for a shorter period of time? If so, what is the best time to run the pump?

The new pressure gauge is reading 18-19 pounds while the pump is running, is this a good pressure reading?

Thank you,
Aaron
 

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