Ditched the ColorQ for the TF-100

[FLPoolDIY]

I received my TF-100 kit today (Color Q going on eBay) I waited to reply until my kit arrived.
The following are my results:
FC- 7.5
PH- 7.8
CH- 225
TA- 90
CYA- 90
Salt - 3500

I do have a question about the color change to red when doing the TA test. Am I looking for a red red or a change to more of a pink?

 

[JoyfulNoise]

You keep adding R-0009 titrant until the red color no longer changes. The first change will be a light red and then the red gets darker.

 

[jblizzle]

All the tests (except the K-1000 and CYA test) are done until the last drop causes no further color change and that last drop does not count.

 

[MarianParoo]

You might want to recheck your CYA with the dilution method because you are at 90. See step #9 here:

Pool School - CYA

 

[YippeeSkippy]

I describe the TA test changes as I experience: at 60ppm TA the solution goes dull gray-pink, add another drop of reagent (70ppm) and I get pink. One more drop brings it up 80ppm and now it's HOT PINK!! And so I add yet another drop and it doesn't change a thing so I know my TA is 80ppm.

 

[FLPoolDIY]

My second set of test:
FC - 7.5
ph - 7.5
CH - 300
TA - 120
CYA alternate method - 80

It's going to take some practice getting constant results, but I'm confident once I get it down my results will have consistency.

 

[MarianParoo]

Just to make sure... Did you remember to double your CYA dilution/alternate test result? Ie, did you test at 40 and double the result to get 80?

 

[FLPoolDIY]

Yes. It was doubled. When doing the normal method, I've read 90 the two times I perform the test.

 

[MarianParoo]

How is your water? Really clear? Is your CC 0.5 or less? (You didn't post CC).

If so, raise the FC to 11-13ppm for a CYA of 90 and never let it get below, (or too close to) 8.

If not, let us know and we can guide you from there.

 

[FLPoolDIY]

Water is crystal clear. 0 CC.
I'll bring the FC up. Now that the pool isn't being used it shouldn't take long to increase FC with SWG % increased.

 

[MarianParoo]

My bad. I missed that you have a SWG. I thoight I checked your signature thoroughly before posting, but somehow missed the SWG...

Your FC is fine with the SWG.

Would you click "show signature" after your next post at the bottom before you press submit? Your sig isn't showing on all posts, so maybe you changed devices and need to do that. Thanks.

mod note: checked. pooldv

 

[FLPoolDIY]

How long does it take people to get consistent results with the TF-100 I feel like I'm not getting good readings.
Third test results:
FC - 7.5
CC - 0
CH - 250
TA - 130
CYA - 70

I have only added acid after the first test, no other chemicals have been added. Based on the test I need to increase my CH, lower the TA and slightly increase my CYA. I'm cautious about increasing my CYA because it takes forever to go down without having to drain. This time of year in FL the rain is minimal so Mother Nature won't help me decrease it either.

Should I add half the recommended and see what I get for results or continue testing a few more times this week for more consistent results?

 

[MarianParoo]

Is your water crystal clear? Make sure it is before upping CYA.

Edit: the above post was intended for someone else. I had too many threads up... Sorry.

 

[FLPoolDIY]

Crystal clear...

 

[tim5055]

Looking at the photo of your pool in your avatar I see the shadow of a screen enclosure. Correct me if this is wrong.

A this point in the year with a screen enclosure I would not add any CYA. The water is going to get cooler, even in Florida and the screen enclosure does filter quite a bit of light. With your results, I'm guessing you are in the 70-80 range for CYA.

Remember, when you conduct this test you want to be in sunlight (outside the screen enclosure), with the sun to your back and the tube at waist height. Slowly add the mixed solution to the tube until the dot disappears. Note the reading. Pour the solution back in the mixing bottle and do it again. Continue pouring back an forth until you are sure of your result.

 

[Griswald]

How long does it take people to get consistent results with the TF-100 I feel like I'm not getting good readings.
Third test results:
FC - 7.5
CC - 0
CH - 250
TA - 130
CYA - 70

I have only added acid after the first test, no other chemicals have been added. Based on the test I need to increase my CH, lower the TA and slightly increase my CYA. I'm cautious about increasing my CYA because it takes forever to go down without having to drain. This time of year in FL the rain is minimal so Mother Nature won't help me decrease it either.

Should I add half the recommended and see what I get for results or continue testing a few more times this week for more consistent results?

The Speed-Stir makes your results more consistent. And it just looks cool!

 

[pooldv]

I wouldn't over think the tests too much. While we do encourage our own accurate test results with a good test kit it doesn't mean that everything needs to be over analyzed +/- 10 ppm. What we mean is that pool stores, test strips and cheap kits are off by 100s of ppm from reality. Give or take 10 ppm is fine.

Always round up your CYA to the next 10 ppm. It is only 1 more ppm of FC and more FC is always better than less. It is safe to swim with FC up to shock level and it is not safe to swim with FC below minimum. [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] So, keep it on the higher side not the lower side. Chlorine is your friend, protecting you from algae, bacteria and pathogens. Pour the mixture back and forth as often as you want to check your CYA results and walk around to different light. More light coming in the side is better you just don't want light coming in through the top of the vial.

What is the CH of your fill water? If it is a couple of hundred ppm then your CH will slowly increase on its own. As water evaporates the CH stays in the pool and more is added with the fill water. Although, it is perfectly fine to raise your CH to 300 or 350 as shown on the Pool School - Recommended Levels

Here are some handy videos of the tests beingperformed, https://www.youtube.com/user/tf100testkit?feature=results_main

 

[FLPoolDIY]

Well I'm probably over analyzing. I did find a pool store today that uses the drip test. I took two samples, one for me & one for pool store.
Surprisingly, all the results were fairly close except the FC.
Below I'll post pool store results first and then my results. The person performing the test was a little sloppy with the reagents. Looking at the numbers side by side I feel more confident with my numbers now.

Pool store:
FC - 3.0
ph - 7.4
CH - 215
TA - 70
CYA - 80
Salt - 3000

My results TF-100
FC - 7.5
PH - 7.5
CC - 0
CH - 275
TA - 90
CYA - 80
Salt - 3000

Edit... got the Color Q out results below
FC - 6.4
Ph - 7.8
CH - 224
TA - 92
CYA - 78

I have not checked my fill water CH. Between the afternoon showers, 1 tropical storm and the outer edge of a hurricane I haven't added water to the pool in the nine monthes we've owned our house.

 

[pooldv]

You should probably raise CH to at least 300 then.

 

[skimmerswimmer]

Just a thought - I have both the ColorQ and the TF100 and I would recommend keeping the ColorQ. Although the TF100 provides more accurate results, the ColorQ comes in handy for those quick "drift" checks, where you know your water is perfect, but you just need a few quick tests to ensure the reading hasn't drifted up or down too far. Using the ColorQ is faster and easier for spot checks in my opinion, so even though for example your PH might be 7.6 with TF100 and 7.4 with the ColorQ, the ColorQ will consistently be "off" by 0.2, so if a reading two days later indicates 7.5, then you know your true PH probably drifted up to 7.7 as measured with the TF100.