So frustrated...please advise!

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Ok. So I've been SLAM-Ing for 3 straight days. 1st day I checked FC every 2 hrs but figured that was inaccurate since it takes 4hrs for my pool to do a complete turnover. Started testing every 4 and have been maintaining 19ppm, adding liquid chlorine at about 11oz or so each 4 hrs to keep at ~19/20. Brushing walls and floor everyday. Running vacuum every other. Water is still this color. What am I doing wrong? I'm about to drain it and call it closed for the year! image.jpg

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pooldv said:
Agreed, if FC went up that would invalidate the test. Even when it is cloudy there are still UV rays present. Same as you can still sunburn when it is cloudy. That is also why there are three criteria to end the SLAM process, SLAM Process
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yes and other than clarity- I've met them all. What next? Clearly I still have algae- I see if puff when I sweep floor. Why isn't it dying with the shock?
 
So theoretically, since my OCLT last night indicated a gain in FC, one would think that I had no algae eating up my chlorine.
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No, that's incorrect. Since FC cannot EVER increase in a pool unless you put more in, the only thing we can assume is there is a testing error.

It is easy to hear your skepticism and impatience. Get your patience back. A SLAM often takes many days to complete. Is it lighter today than yesterday? If you have been keeping up your FC, I am almost sure it is.

Take a picture each day to demonstrate to yourself it is changing.

Your pool did not get this way in just a couple of dasy and it will take more than that to keep it clear.
 
MarianParoo said:
Since you got 50 for your last CYA, keep FC at 20.
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Not sure how CYA went from 40-50 but it is a hard test to get right. Maybe the algae is affecting the test or the ability to read it accurately.
Personally, I would raise FC higher than 20 in order to make sure I have FC enough in there. As long as one stays below Mustard shock levels I would think it would be cheap insurance (the fact that you lose more FC at higher FC levels is offset by you actually killing the algae more quickly as you would be sure you are at shock level)

What do the experts think?
 
Because CYA is subjective- i.e. Some of us have better vision than others- it is hard to say definitively what my CYA actually was, however I did use the "pool water" sample to compare to what my reading was and I calculate my CYA at 40 based on that test. However since I felt it could fall somewhere in between- this why I was targeting 18ppm- right in between. I've gotten so many different opinions on where I should keep the FC, thus my question a couple days ago about more is better. I don't want to strive for 20 or even more if I am just wasting chlorine. The green does not seem to be lessening in color. I do realize that it will take some time to get back. I have been superchlorinating for 10 days now, but have only had my TF100 kit since Friday so I only have accurate readings from that point on. As far as the increase in FC overnight- I think that is based on the fact that I had tested 2hrs after my last chlorine add- when a full turnover hadn't been completed. The next morning the pool was fully mixed. I am going to try another OCLT test tonight/tomorrow to see what the outcome is. I appreciate the input from everyone. I do lack patience but I feel after 3 solid days of treatment I should be seeing some improvement-not clear mind you but improving. At what point do I cut my losses and say it isn't working?

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Wildcat said:
Not sure how CYA went from 40-50 but it is a hard test to get right. Maybe the algae is affecting the test or the ability to read it accurately.
Personally, I would raise FC higher than 20 in order to make sure I have FC enough in there. As long as one stays below Mustard shock levels I would think it would be cheap insurance (the fact that you lose more FC at higher FC levels is offset by you actually killing the algae more quickly as you would be sure you are at shock level)

What do the experts think?
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This! That's why I asked the question about more being more a couple days ago. I would rather have a more costly outlay of chemical up front to kill the algae once and for all. Then be extremely diligent about keeping the pool balanced from there. I've already determined I will make the permanent switch to liquid and not use CYA based pucks. That is what got me hosed up in the first place...my cya went over 100, locking out my chlorine.
 
Usually 30 minutes of pump time is enough to mix the liquid CL. When I am pouring in larger amounts over a few ounces I pour it in about 5-6 spots in the pool to aid in the dispersion.

I have never had algae (knock on wood) even before I discovered TFP 2 years ago (luck, 6 years of pucks my CYA was over 200 and I was just by chance over chlorinating). So I have never had to do a slam so do not know how long it takes. I would think after 3-4 days you would see at least an improvement UNLESS your FC was too low based on either a FC or CYA reading error (not a criticism, just trying to help figure this out).

Let's see what some others say but what's the cost of raising the FC level to between shock and mustard shock levels? $10-15 depending on cost in your area. Walmart has 10% at $2.50 in most areas, watch the date code for freshness ( 16 120 is the 120th day of 2016, so 16 150 would better, for instance)

At CYA of 50 your shock level is 20 and mustard shock is 29. If your CYA is actually 80 your shock level is 31 and mustard shock is 44.
So if you want to take it to 29 PPM it would a gallon extra of 10% bleach/liquid chlorine. Don't want to mislead you but since I doubt you want to swim in your pool right now the extra CL can't hurt.

BTW, have you cleaned or checked the filter? Tried running vacuum every day for at least a while?

Throwing this out there to get comments from the experts (who are probably in their pool or at a BBQ!

Sorry to hear KS is so hot but we cooled off to low 100's this week in Tucson so we know heat!
 
Wildcat said:
Usually 30 minutes of pump time is enough to mix the liquid CL. When I am pouring in larger amounts over a few ounces I pour it in about 5-6 spots in the pool to aid in the dispersion.

I have never had algae (knock on wood) even before I discovered TFP 2 years ago (luck, 6 years of pucks my CYA was over 200 and I was just by chance over chlorinating). So I have never had to do a slam so do not know how long it takes. I would think after 3-4 days you would see at least an improvement UNLESS your FC was too low based on either a FC or CYA reading error (not a criticism, just trying to help figure this out).

Let's see what some others say but what's the cost of raising the FC level to between shock and mustard shock levels? $10-15 depending on cost in your area. Walmart has 10% at $2.50 in most areas, watch the date code for freshness ( 16 120 is the 120th day of 2016, so 16 150 would better, for instance)

At CYA of 50 your shock level is 20 and mustard shock is 29. If your CYA is actually 80 your shock level is 31 and mustard shock is 44.
So if you want to take it to 29 PPM it would a gallon extra of 10% bleach/liquid chlorine. Don't want to mislead you but since I doubt you want to swim in your pool right now the extra CL can't hurt.

BTW, have you cleaned or checked the filter? Tried running vacuum every day for at least a while?

Throwing this out there to get comments from the experts (who are probably in their pool or at a BBQ!

Sorry to hear KS is so hot but we cooled off to low 100's this week in Tucson so we know heat!
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i use a TF100 kit and feel confident about the readings I am getting from my tests. My filter has brand new sand and no broken lats, good pressure. I bought 10 gals of LC from Menards (12.5%) at $2.99 a gal and that's what I've been using since Wednesday. I thought about running FC up to 24 which was the mustard shock, but have been maintaining at 18ppm to hit somewhere between 40-50 cya. Have not tested CYA since Saturday. But have not added anything containing cya so don't think that is an issue. Not really concerned about the added cost for extra chlorine just want to get back to a clear clean pool without totally draining and refilling- since I've already done a partial drain due to high cya. I actually am about ready to swim in it green- Lord knows the chlorine level is high enough. Been running vacuum every other day for approx 8 hrs. Running right now. Brushing daily. We've actually cooled off here over the last few days but are climbing again this week. At least you don't have 92% relative humidity! ��
 
duraleigh said:
Anytime you are ready.

The problem is what will you do next? TFP is giving you our best advice so I am not sure what other path you could take.
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That's just it Dave- I would drain it and be done for the season. I'm not doubting the advice I've been given, I'm asking at what point do I say all the advice I've been given and have been following to a tee has not worked, 4 days, 7, 14? I want to get a feel for an appropriate time frame so I dont continue throwing chemical at a pool that won't clear. Thank you to everyone who has offered advice- I've listened to each and every one of you and acted on that advice.
 
Of course, that has to be your judgement. I would go ahead and get it clear for next season. You plan on draining it? I don't have an AG pool but I don't think draining is a good option....others will advise.

So, pull the plug anytime you wish. We never want people to think we are telling them how to manage their pool We want people to learn what we know so they can manage the pool themselves.
 

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I have a 24' pool, and was battling an algae outbreak last year... These people stuck with me, and I got through it, and I haven't looked back.
It took me close to a month to get everything under control... at first I was like you.... "It isn't working"... then once I saw a little improvement, it snowballed, and the improvements came FAST!
Stick with the program, it DOES work, and will save you a bunch of $$$ in the long run.
I learned (The hard way) that the best barometer there is is to take pictures... every day at the same time, from the same angle... then you can SEE the changes your pool is going through. (And so can we) :)
I went through a LOT of 8.25% bleach (Nowhere around here had anything any stronger then)... but it works! I plan on being a member here until I'm kicked off for being a smart @$$, or until I die, whichever comes first, and they have some of my $$$ to back it, (and will be getting more to help this along) God knows they have saved me enough of it.

Ron
 
RonsPlc said:
I have a 24' pool, and was battling an algae outbreak last year... These people stuck with me, and I got through it, and I haven't looked back.
It took me close to a month to get everything under control... at first I was like you.... "It isn't working"... then once I saw a little improvement, it snowballed, and the improvements came FAST!
Stick with the program, it DOES work, and will save you a bunch of $$$ in the long run.
I learned (The hard way) that the best barometer there is is to take pictures... every day at the same time, from the same angle... then you can SEE the changes your pool is going through. (And so can we) :)
I went through a LOT of 8.25% bleach (Nowhere around here had anything any stronger then)... but it works! I plan on being a member here until I'm kicked off for being a smart @$$, or until I die, whichever comes first, and they have some of my $$$ to back it, (and will be getting more to help this along) God knows they have saved me enough of it.

Ron
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Ron thank you. That's all I am really looking for is a point in the future to look towards. In 7 years of pool ownership I have never had an issue like this. Anytime I have had a clarity issue, it's generally been rectified within a couple days. While this didn't occur overnight, it did happen in a matter of 3 or 4 days. I get giving it time, and am willing to do so, I am simply looking for an idea of how long this could take to rectify. I would agree that taking pictures, as Dave recommended previously, is probably a good idea, as I am not noticing an improvement over these last 3 days, but it might be so slight that it's hard to tell. Hopefully I too will see the snowball effect. I too stand a chance of being eliminated for smart @ss-itis, lol.

Dave I don't feel like people are telling me how to manage my pool. Obviously I came here for good advice, something I wasn't getting from the pool store. I'm not doubting what anyone here says- I just wanted am approximate idea of what time frame I am looking at to clarity. I appreciate everyone's input and will continue to shock as recommended for the foreseeable future.
 
One other thing I've noticed, and maybe someone can shed some light...when my FC registers somewhere between 16-18 I have 0 CC. If it builds closer to 20 (which it has been a couple times when liquid was added a little heavier) I end up with .5? Would there be a reason for this?
 
maybe it is because you are getting to the point of saturation, and it is out-gassing.... not sure, but it is my thought.
BTW, did Dave mention that we LIKE pictures?
Post them so we can see what is happening! ... please.
 
To be blunt, the question "how long will it take" is impossible to answer. Every pool is different. I have seen SLAMs that are done in a week and some that go over a month. Many times (in my opinion) much of the delay comes down to the motivation of the pool owner. Meaning, the owners who are out there testing 5, 6, or 7 times a day and adjusting the FC back up to shock level every time and brushing the pool we'll ever day go quickest.
 
That is the underlying issue. It didn't happen in 3-4 days it happened over time. Not only are you fixing a 3 or 4 day old old problem you are undoing weeks, months or even years of living on the edge. Pool barely staying clear or just getting by with algae surviving in the pool for weeks or months on end. It takes time to clear that up and kill the algae. People often have no idea that algae is growing in their pool when their water is clear. First the chlorine usage goes up a little, then the pool walls get a little slimy, then the pool walls get a little green, then the pool walls get some green fuzz, then the water starts to turn cloudy and then the water turns green. When a pool turns green algae has been growing for weeks before it gets to that point. Pool store remedies only clear the water, never kill the algae for good.
 
My pool right now.... I replaced the liner in the intex this year.

GnbBb3w.jpg
 
tim5055 said:
To be blunt, the question "how long will it take" is impossible to answer. Every pool is different. I have seen SLAMs that are done in a week and some that go over a month. Many times (in my opinion) much of the delay comes down to the motivation of the pool owner. Meaning, the owners who are out there testing 5, 6, or 7 times a day and adjusting the FC back up to shock level every time and brushing the pool we'll ever day go quickest.
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so theoretically...me.

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MarianParoo said:
I believe you should be slamming at 20 and I think your CC MAY be agreeing with me.
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so I want CC to be at .5? I thought the goal was 0. I must be looking at this all wrong...

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pooldv said:
That is the underlying issue. It didn't happen in 3-4 days it happened over time. Not only are you fixing a 3 or 4 day old old problem you are undoing weeks, months or even years of living on the edge. Pool barely staying clear or just getting by with algae surviving in the pool for weeks or months on end. It takes time to clear that up and kill the algae. People often have no idea that algae is growing in their pool when their water is clear. First the chlorine usage goes up a little, then the pool walls get a little slimy, then the pool walls get a little green, then the pool walls get some green fuzz, then the water starts to turn cloudy and then the water turns green. When a pool turns green algae has been growing for weeks before it gets to that point. Pool store remedies only clear the water, never kill the algae for good.
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Ive just recently become privy to the fact that pool stores are the devil!

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RonsPlc said:
My pool right now.... I replaced the liner in the intex this year.

GnbBb3w.jpg
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gorgeous Ron!
 

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