You’re going to cut and grind the edge?
Gunite should have been left a little low and it gets built up to level with mortar.
Gunite should have been left a little low and it gets built up to level with mortar.
Yes, right now it's level all around. I can build up with mortar or if we need to slope a lot we can cut it. But I have to control the entire pool as close as possible to be the same. On this pool we want the look that there is no drop into the pool. Water is flat and all the way to the top. To get this look without flooding the paver deck we have a small gutter around (2"wide X3"deep). There will be a small flow all around into the gutters. To "encourage" the flow over the infinity wall we have floor returns pointed straight up inside the pool along the infinity edge.You’re going to cut and grind the edge?
Gunite should have been left a little low and it gets built up to level with mortar.
I dug one of my cut ends a couple feet back into the untouched yard, then buried it with a paver stone near the surface so it would be easy to find at fill time.I got pretty lucky with the tie in location for the new temp run
Were these questions ever answered? I have the exact same questions, can't find the answers anywhere! ThanksAqua,
Thanks before I start I'll say the pool is 22' x 32' with about 10' additional at each end for a hot tub and sun deck at opposite ends. More details are at post #80 here so much and here goes:
I'm having a lot more fun getting ready to start construction for the pool than I did for the house... not sure why that is but Iike all my projects I am learning a LOT and enjoying every minute. People like yourself that are willing to share their knowledge are a tremendous help. I appreciate it much!
- I've read a lot about different materials for sealing pipe penetrations in the wall and floor. Do you have a favorite or things to avoid?
- What techniques are best to assure level across the infinity edge?
- What materials work best for tile across the infinity edge? I'd like to use a material that has color consistency through the tile so if there is any minor grinding it does not remove the glaze. I'd much prefer to get it perfect and not need any grinding but it seems all pool builds I've watched in progress end up doing some grinding to perfect the over-flow especially in the corners for square edges?
- The back side of my infinity wall is planned to have a rough cedar shingle layered style using porcelain tile to break up flow. Half of what my wife likes about the edge is the white noise it makes. Do you have a better way that you like?
- What level control for the basin to you have the best performance from? I'm planning to have two large pumps that use a simple level control that starts one pump first then if level still rises it kicks the other on. They will have flow capacity of 80 gpm each. Pool size is ~25000 gal.
Chris
PS Moderators may want to move this to my pool build thread so I don't divert the intent of this thread... and that's fine with me
Yes, here you go:Were these questions ever answered? I have the exact same questions, can't find the answers anywhere! Thanks
The stand off nail is outside on the wall facing the basin not inside the pool. Thanks on the rebar. Yes it's on the bond beam but was not connected to the rebar mat, only added to provide support for the temp framing used to shoot the spa/pool separation wall.Is the stand off nail on the inside wall(pool side) or the spillway side?
The rebar appears to be on the top of the bond beam, this poses a less likely problem once cut and treated as you explained.
It sure was weird repeatedly being on the receiving end for the build.I always feel like I get more help from experts here than I provide to others
I've got a list of tips from you that have been extremely helpful. Thank you!!Mini pebble with seats and shallow area diamond polished.