my water is all out of whack as soon as I opened. I tried shocking it to kill the algae but it just keeps coming back even thought it's not warm out at all. People at the pool store told me I have nitrates and phosphates but shouldn't a strong enough shock kill that? Also my hardness level is extremely low but I have a plaster pool so does that actually matter?
need some opening help
- Thread starter Mitoe
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,802
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Hello and welcome to TFP! 
You seem to be in that awkward position of taking advice from the pool store, and I can assure you that won't work. You would think they should know what you r water needs but they don't. I can tell you they will provide you with a printout and sell you $$$ of products and be happy when you return the next day. Here's our best recommendation for you at the moment before water temps start to increase:
- Order your own proper test kit; either a TFO1-- or Taylor K-2006C (link below)
- Go to the TFP Pool School (link below) and read the associated pages there
- Refer to the various links below in my signature as they will be a common resource for you; the "SLAM" link is what you will need to clear your water.
Everything you do hinges on the proper test kit though. We just cannot overemphasize that enough. Welcome, and let us know if you have nay more questions.
- - - Updated - - -
As for the plaster ... YES! Low CH in a plaster pool means you could damage your existing plaster from the walls. Very important.
You seem to be in that awkward position of taking advice from the pool store, and I can assure you that won't work. You would think they should know what you r water needs but they don't. I can tell you they will provide you with a printout and sell you $$$ of products and be happy when you return the next day. Here's our best recommendation for you at the moment before water temps start to increase:- Order your own proper test kit; either a TFO1-- or Taylor K-2006C (link below)
- Go to the TFP Pool School (link below) and read the associated pages there
- Refer to the various links below in my signature as they will be a common resource for you; the "SLAM" link is what you will need to clear your water.
Everything you do hinges on the proper test kit though. We just cannot overemphasize that enough. Welcome, and let us know if you have nay more questions.
- - - Updated - - -
As for the plaster ... YES! Low CH in a plaster pool means you could damage your existing plaster from the walls. Very important.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,802
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
The proper test kit (i.e. TF-100 or Taylor K-2006) is the foundation of your pool care. Why these kits? We've learned through extensive experience that you cannot reply on pool store testing, test strips, or simple over-the-counter kits. They simply do not read Free Chlorine (FC) or Cyanuric Acid (CYA) levels accurately or to the high levels we need. In addition, many of the employees are seasonal, lack experience, and simply sell products or give advice based on a product-line for that store - it's all about sales. The testimonials here are endless, and many can confirm that you can go to store # 1 and get test results, then go to store #2 you will undoubtedly receive totally different numbers. You can go back to the same store the next day and still receive totally different numbers. Happens ALL the time.
If you do not have a TF-100 or Taylor K2006 test kit, it should be your #1 priority.
- - - Updated - - -
I also want to emphasize that the test kit is NOT a sales pitch for TFP or anyone here. We do not receive funds. We are all volunteers, some who have been in the business for decades. It's a simple philosophy of a pool owner taking care of their pool with the most basic products, saving money, and being 100% in charge of their own pool. Testing at home is not difficult. In fact, once done with one of these kits, is quite liberating and the results cannot be denied.
If you do not have a TF-100 or Taylor K2006 test kit, it should be your #1 priority.
- - - Updated - - -
I also want to emphasize that the test kit is NOT a sales pitch for TFP or anyone here. We do not receive funds. We are all volunteers, some who have been in the business for decades. It's a simple philosophy of a pool owner taking care of their pool with the most basic products, saving money, and being 100% in charge of their own pool. Testing at home is not difficult. In fact, once done with one of these kits, is quite liberating and the results cannot be denied.
TF-100 is awesome in my book... l spend less then $50.00 a season with my pool... I tell everyone I run into about TFP.
Is it really free when you walk out of the store with $$ of stuff and keep having to go back in a week for more stuff?
Here at TFP we teach you to take care of your own pool using stuff you can get from Target or Walmart. The only thing we get in return is a smile and thank you.
TFP is based on science and daily use of THOUSANDS of pools.
It is up to you. Get a good test kit and follow TFP's guidelines or allow the pool store to test your water and buy what they want you to buy.
Here is our "shopping" list:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
I hope you stay with us. We can and will save you SO much money in the end and your pool will look better than it has ever looked before!
Kim:cat: