valleyofthesun said:
Yeah, I think that is part of my problem. I've got two Taylor kits that are from 2005. The FAS-DPD test is great. Thanks, all, for the suggestion!
Too much Chlorine
- Thread starter lurch
- Start date
Yeah, I think that is part of my problem. I've got two Taylor kits that are from 2005. The FAS-DPD test is great. Thanks, all, for the suggestion!
All has been good for the last 6+ weeks, using DPD powder and keeping CH between 3.5-4.5. After our 4th festivities, it was time to shock the pool as I've been seeing some algea pop up on the stairs and baby pool area. Per the calculator, I added 4 jugs of 182 oz 6% bleach to get it up to ~25ppm but my Ch reading has gone through the roof. Am I doing something wrong in my testing here? Filled tube to 25ml instead of 10ml, used one spoon of DPD rather than 2, so my results should be mulitiplied by 5, correct? After 20 drops of the R-871 I stopped... there's no way I have 50ppm of chlorine... thoughts?
Ph 7.4 (est)(I did put in 3 quarts of acid as I was at 8 Sunday night and I needed to get it and TA down
TA 80 (est, was at 100)
CYA 80
Salt 3500
Borate 45
17k gallon pebble
Ph 7.4 (est)(I did put in 3 quarts of acid as I was at 8 Sunday night and I needed to get it and TA down
TA 80 (est, was at 100)
CYA 80
Salt 3500
Borate 45
17k gallon pebble
it's not CH...I think your testing for FC. with a 25ml sample you multiply x 0.2 vs 0.5 with a 10ml sample.
20 drops would equal an FC of 4
given your cya level an avg FC of 3.5 to 4.5 is too low, hence your algae bloom
with a CYA of 80 your FC target is 9ppm with a minimum of 6ppm
to shock you need to raise your FC level to 31...I see you don;t list a swg in your sig, but you have salt? If no swg...you may want to consider a partial drain and bring that CYA down before shocking...if you do have a swg...raise to 31...and keep it there until the pool clears per pool schol instructions...it's that simple
20 drops would equal an FC of 4
given your cya level an avg FC of 3.5 to 4.5 is too low, hence your algae bloom
with a CYA of 80 your FC target is 9ppm with a minimum of 6ppm
to shock you need to raise your FC level to 31...I see you don;t list a swg in your sig, but you have salt? If no swg...you may want to consider a partial drain and bring that CYA down before shocking...if you do have a swg...raise to 31...and keep it there until the pool clears per pool schol instructions...it's that simple
dmanb2b said:
Ah, my logic for diluting the sample was backwards then! Thanks for clarifying
Yes, I have a SWG. The Pool Calculator says SWG FC could be as low as 4, with Normal at 6 to 11 and shock at 21. You sure about your proposed numbers, or am I doing something wrong with the calculator too?
yeah do reason to go with the 25ml sample while trying to shock...your just using up more reagent...0.5ppm increments would be fine. Are you using the TF100 or taylor k2006?
If you look at the CYA/Clorine chart in Pool school, if your CYA is 80 your shock level is 30-31ppm. I just noticed that 21 suggested level in the poolcalculator as well so it's not just you...going to 30 will not harm anything with your CYA level. Hopefully Jason or someone will jump on soom and clarify the diff between the chart and the poolcalculator
If you look at the CYA/Clorine chart in Pool school, if your CYA is 80 your shock level is 30-31ppm. I just noticed that 21 suggested level in the poolcalculator as well so it's not just you...going to 30 will not harm anything with your CYA level. Hopefully Jason or someone will jump on soom and clarify the diff between the chart and the poolcalculator
Both shock levels will work, the CYA/Chlorine chart's higher level will likely clear things up faster.
You should consider getting an FAS-DPD chlorine test. Both Taylor and TFtestkits.net sell the test separately for around $25. This will supplement your existing kit, and it's much more accurate, which is critical when shocking/determining an overnight FC loss test.
You should consider getting an FAS-DPD chlorine test. Both Taylor and TFtestkits.net sell the test separately for around $25. This will supplement your existing kit, and it's much more accurate, which is critical when shocking/determining an overnight FC loss test.
I think he is using FAS-DPD, 'mom. He mentioned having to use 20 drops of R-0871 for a 25 ml sample, but had the multiplier wrong.
Yes, have the FAS-DPD now.
When you shock, how many days does it typically take your pool to get in swim range again? Mine seems to (fortunatly/unfortunatly) hold the FC pretty well, and you can't swim above 10-11ppm, right?
When you shock, how many days does it typically take your pool to get in swim range again? Mine seems to (fortunatly/unfortunatly) hold the FC pretty well, and you can't swim above 10-11ppm, right?
reebok
0
people have different preferences. the most liberal opinion is shock level or below for your cya. see the chlorine/cya chart.
MikeInTN said:
Brain fart.
Safe to swim anywhere between "min" and your "shock" level for your CYA.
ivyleager
LifeTime Supporter
lurch said:
With high cya levels, the chlorine holds for a longer period of time, at least mine does. I held 10-15ppm for 3 days without adding anything and my cya currently is 70. We swam in old suits and had a blast.
I've learned something about my pool this year. Even with above recommended chlorine levels per cya chart, my pool grows algae if I have the pump/filter off for more than 4 hours overnight. I was hoping to reduce energy costs, but have incurred high bleach costs instead. I am considering a 2 speed pump, and going low speed overnight. Equipment is below master bedroom and some nights the hum really annoys me.
What kind of algae? Regular green or is it yellow/mustard which is more resistant to chlorine?ivyleager said:
ivyleager said:
Cary, you'd love a 2-speeder then. When mine's on low I can barely hear it, and it's outside our den window. Even when I open the window up, I can barely hear it running. Not to mention the energy savings.
Get the 2 speed.
You are probably getting FC dead spots because you don't run the pump enough.
You are probably getting FC dead spots because you don't run the pump enough.
chem geek posted a link in another forum that explained it: Recognizing a Bad Reagent. My R-0002 is no longer colorless, it's a dark pink, so it's no good.PaulR said:
--paulr