Preparing for May!

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A

AAAT

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Mar 4, 2016
3
Topeka, KS
Just wanted to say hi, and that I'll be posting several questions here over the next few weeks in preparation for getting the pool ready this year! A little background on us...

We had a 15' above ground pool (Intex type) with a SWG two years ago. I literally set it up, added the recommended amount of salt and CYA, and didn't test the water or add anything else for the rest of the year. The pool stayed decently clear all season, but I realize now that I was just EXTREMELY lucky.

Last year we moved up to a 20' round pool with an appropriately sized SWG and sand filter. Sorry to say, but I basically made every mistake I could last year (forgive me). I let a local pool supply company test my water and talk me into putting an insane amount of chemicals in the pool when I set it up. I didn't do regular testing. We had several bad wind/rain storms that got my water all out of whack. When the bottom was particularly dirty, I made the mistake of vacuuming it with the pump set to filter instead of waste, so my water was a cloudy mess. The first half of the season was decent, but it went downhill fast! After reading some stuff on this site last fall, I decided to just close the pool 'dirty' and try again this year.

My fist instinct is to drain all the water when I uncover the pool in May, clean it out really good, and start fresh. Is that reasonable (as opposed to trying to clean out the debris and SLAM it)? For now it is just drained below the skimmer. Either way I'll have a lot of questions as I go along. In the meantime, I'll continue reading some of the Pool School articles. Also, I'm ordering one of the recommended test kits, the separate K-1766 saltwater kit, and a SpeedStir so they get here before I'm ready to get to work. I'm also debating ordering the Catfish battery powered vacuum unless someone talks me out of it. That sounds much nicer than dragging out the pump vacuum hose every time.

I look forward to learning a lot this season, and I'm (somewhat geekily) excited to start my mad scientist water testing. I'm mostly excited to have a nice, clear pool.
 
Well, we're happy to hear you've learned your lesson and are back for TFP help. :wave: With a pool of 10K you could drain sure, but that's not always necessary. Sometimes that can lead to problems with the liner or frame though, so it's not an automatic choice. In fact, most scenarios can be remedied just fine with a SLAM and some patience. Once you get your test kit (I would suggest TF-100 since it has more reagents for the SLAM), and you can circulate water again, post some test numbers and we'll go from there. Either way, we'll be around to help answer any questions. Have a nice weekend.
 
Thanks for the reply. Where do I start if I decide to salvage the existing water? From what I've read here, it sounds like the first step would be to vacuum out as much debris as I can first. I've peeked under the cover, and it looks like most of it has settled to the bottom. After I vacuum it out, it sounds like I should fill it up and run the filter for a couple days to circulate the water before I take any readings (with or without the swg)? And then go from there based on the results?

I have a pretty good understanding of where all my readings should optimally be, but I'm sure I'll have more questions on how to get them there! One question I do have is on the CYA tests. It looks like the kits all have fewer of these tests than others. Does that not need to be tested as often?

I'm still probably 2 months from starting the process here in Kansas... partly because of the temps and partly because of the nearby maple tree dropping helicopters like crazy in early May. I'm hoping to start messing with it mid May so we can be enjoying the pool in early June!
 
AAAT said:
Thanks for the reply. Where do I start if I decide to salvage the existing water? From what I've read here, it sounds like the first step would be to vacuum out as much debris as I can first. I've peeked under the cover, and it looks like most of it has settled to the bottom. After I vacuum it out, it sounds like I should fill it up and run the filter for a couple days to circulate the water before I take any readings (with or without the swg)? And then go from there based on the results?

I have a pretty good understanding of where all my readings should optimally be, but I'm sure I'll have more questions on how to get them there! One question I do have is on the CYA tests. It looks like the kits all have fewer of these tests than others. Does that not need to be tested as often?

I'm still probably 2 months from starting the process here in Kansas... partly because of the temps and partly because of the nearby maple tree dropping helicopters like crazy in early May. I'm hoping to start messing with it mid May so we can be enjoying the pool in early June!
Click to expand...

In the TFT kit, there is a large bottle of reagent in the kit. I will usually only test my cya a few times during the season just to see where it is at. I tested it when we started amping up in the pool last month and will probably test it again this week. I only test FC and PH daily and the I will usually run the full battery on Sundays (minus the CYA test).

If it is warm enough for you outside, then honestly, I personally would start cleaning now lol I love to get ahead and be prime ready the day I can get in :) Where we are at now, I have ONE palm tree on the other side of the fence and it plays havoc dropping seeds, fronds etc... I just skim every day but it is considerably warmer here outside than probably where you are :)
 
AAAT, clambert1273's thread links are great examples of going from dark green to crystal blue. But without getting too long-winded with advice, it all really starts at the Pool School (link below) and ABC's of Water Chemistry. Just a small bit of reading to give you that good basic understanding. While doing that, ensure you have the right test kit. Since you require a SLAM (you can read that ahead of time as well), you'll want a TF-100 test kit. It uses Taylor reagents but in larger quantities - just a great value. You should also add your pool info to your signature by going to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. It will help us later. This link may also help you: Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post.

In the meantime, it's always good to manually remove all the junk you can from the pool. Once you have done that, and have your test kit in-hand, let us know and we'll be happy to help. We can help show you how to not only fix the green you currently have, but to keep it away so you have a worry-free swimming season. If you have any questions, let us know.
 
You are already ahead of the game with finding TFP! Nice job.

Your next move is the test kit.

While you are waiting for your test kit do the above "homework" reading. This will teach you the hows and whys of TFP.

Let us know when the test kit gets there and we will move you to the next step...........clearing your pool

Kim
 
Thanks! I thought I had my stuff in my signature when I signed up a couple weeks ago, but obviously not! I'm on the mobile now so will do that later from home. It is tempting to start working on the pool now, but there is a chance of snow tonight still! If I get it swim ready by early June that'll be perfect for the kids.
 
AAAT said:
Thanks! I thought I had my stuff in my signature when I signed up a couple weeks ago, but obviously not! I'm on the mobile now so will do that later from home. It is tempting to start working on the pool now, but there is a chance of snow tonight still! If I get it swim ready by early June that'll be perfect for the kids.
Click to expand...

lol I always say there is a reason I pay out the nose to live in Cali :lol:
 
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