Hey John, and welcome. You'll want to take a moment to read the
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry first, but "Yes", put the salt in now to start mixing. You also need stabilizer right away to protect your chlorine and make the water safe for swimmers. For a SWG pool, you want to use the
Poolmath calculator to set your SWG to get up to 70 ppm. So what is best to test the water? I suggest the TF-100 (with speed stir) that can be purchased at
TFTestkits.net. Some folks also like the Taylor K-2006 which can also be purchased at that site. They both use Taylor reagents, you just get more for your buck with the TF-100 as noted
HERE.
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, simply place the required amount as calculated by the
Poolmath calculator into a white sock and suspend it near a return jet. You can squeeze the sock occasionally to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, it may take about a week for the CYA readings to fully adjust.
Once you have the salt in there, and the stabilizer soaking, remember the CYA won't show-up on tests for about a week, so just treat your pool as if it is going to have a CYA of 70.
For sanitation, you need Free Chlorine (FC), but until your SWG can generate the FC, use regular bleach (no scents and not splashless) - just regular. Generic is fine. Again, by using the
Poolmath calculator , add enough on day one to get you to about 2-3 ppm. The next day, you can increase a bit more to 4. You'll also want to read this page:
Pool School - Water Balance for SWGs. Once you know your SWG is working, you'll need salt test strips to confirm how its working. The same web site for the TF-100 has great salt test kits as well.
All of your recommended levels and products are:
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
The biggest mistake people make with a pool is not ensuring their CYA and FC match as noted on this chart:
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart. SO keep it handy for sure. The salt and stabilizer can go in immediately. Bleach as well. If you have to add acid, separate it by about 10 minutes or so from other chemicals, and make sure the pump has mixed everything real well, or assist with a little brushing.
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Lots of info on this first post (sorry). Just go over everything a time or two and it will become second-nature. I had that same pool at one time, and I know how it reacts. If you're using the original Intex Type A filter system, it can get overwhelmed quickly. But always remember, it is water chemistry that keeps the water clear and prevent algae, NOT the filter. Your best friend will be the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 test kit I assure you. Stick close with us and we'll help along the way. Welcome to TFP!