New to the spa ownership and this forum. Need some help getting rid of ferrous iron in water. Spa was installed two days ago. I told the installer I have a very bad ferrous Iron problem ahead of time. They said the filters will take care of it. I see no change in two days. still very very brown. getting frustrated with there lack of help. They say keep adding shock. Is there anything else I can do short of draining and refilling through house conditioner? Will it clear up as they keep telling me Thanks
Ferrous Iron in spa water
- Thread starter atcone
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!
Iron is very difficult to remove from pool or spa water. Shocking may cause it to deposit on surfaces, and sequestrants may temporarily keep it at bay, but starting with iron-free water is by far the best route.
Iron is very difficult to remove from pool or spa water. Shocking may cause it to deposit on surfaces, and sequestrants may temporarily keep it at bay, but starting with iron-free water is by far the best route.
There are some DIY filter that will help if the iron is turning the water brown. A number of members have reported good results. Do a search on youtube for iron filter. Usually made from some type of bucket and fiberfill like for making pillows. Punch a number of small holes in bucket, fill with fiberfill, direct flow from return into bucket. You may need to change/clean the fiberfill often when you first start doing this.
so on every re-fill you need to do this? sounds like a pita. maybe filter the water as it is filling the spa? would metal free help here?
The bucket filled with fiberfill actually is just a homemade filter, and one that has worked well for some members. I personally would rather fill with that rather than adding another chemical to the mix.
but metals are not just from the fill water, they can come from the plumbing, etc.
if the bucket filter works then maybe that's ok to use to filter the fill water while its filling. to have to use this method after the spa is filled sounds like a pita.
if the bucket filter works then maybe that's ok to use to filter the fill water while its filling. to have to use this method after the spa is filled sounds like a pita.
We're drifting a little from OP's question but reemphasizing JohnT's thoughts....
So, atcone, can you fill from another source that doesn't have the iron issue?
Filtering iron out of water is just not easy. Mechanical filters have very little capacity (like that fiber stuff) to do any real good. Unless the pH is out of control, there is little contribution to metals other than the dissolved iron in the water.
So, atcone, can you fill from another source that doesn't have the iron issue?
I can fill from house conditioned water. It gets 95% of the iron out. I think I'm going to drain and start over, with that water.My first fill was from unconditioned garden hose. Wish the dealer would have suggested that from the start.
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The conditioned water will be soft. will that be ok?
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The conditioned water will be soft. will that be ok?
Absolutely. Adding CH to around 200 is not a bad idea....it'll help hold down foaming and folks that are more knowledgeable than me think the fiberglass surface is helped with a little CH.
Because of the hotter spa water and tendency for the pH to get high, we usually recommend 120-150 ppm CH to help avoid the risk of calcium carbonate scaling. We've seen such scaling in spas with the CSI as low as +0.3 whereas for pools we usually don't see the scaling until around +0.7 (except in saltwater chlorine generators).
Atcone, in spring summer and fall, I use softened water from an especially plumbed outdoor soft water spigot for my pool and hot tub.
My hot tub repair guy, who replaced my 15+ yr old jacuzzi dual pump two years ago, is against this move, and claims its corrosive. However, note said pump was more to 15+ years old (actually closer to 20, I think) AND that in terms of salinity my hot tub water is lower than those that use SWG for their hot tubs. So my OWN take is that the soft water is fine, but do change it periodically so it doesn't build too much salt.
In the winter, my shop water source closest to hot tub is raw wellwater with high-ish iron.
Originally, I used this to contol metal, one dose on start up: Amazon.com : Leisure Time D Spa Metal Gon, Pint : Spa Metal Gone : Patio, Lawn Garden
(Note this is not a brand we recommend for pools...but is suited to hot tub size.) But in my case, in snowy cold ams I'd periodically forget to use the weekly "defender" and I'd get yellow-orange tint back.
I've since experimented with a spa/pool pre filter with an alleged 8,000 gallon capacity. If you read the Amazon reviews, it gets four stars but some say it doesn't work. Others say is gets much less capacity, eg 5,000 gal before loosing effectiveness. Also note that neither. Pre-filter OR water softening system actually COMPLETELY removes iron once its in the 2 ppm range...above 2 ppm, "iron curtain" type maganese fiters are allegedly more effective (and expensive
Read...and possibly use this far less expensive option...at your own risk Amazon.com : Pre Fresh Garden Hose End Water Filter all purpose, pool, spa, hot tub, pets, car wash : Garden Hose Parts : Patio, Lawn Garden
In my setting/condition/level of well iron (aporox 2 pm raw) his particular prefilter works for me and prevents both tinted water and stains -- without it, orange tint upon shocking. However, I suspect efficacy and the mixed results reported with pre filters kinda depends on HOW MUCH iron you have in the water, how much builds up in the water etc. So YMMV.
Those of us with wells have to experiment a bit to find the right balance for our unique parameters. My preference is soft water, then adding calcium to 150. But in hard winter, I can't make that work or I blow the back flow...
(ask me how I know
Best wishes for swift do-over and some nice autumnal soaks
My hot tub repair guy, who replaced my 15+ yr old jacuzzi dual pump two years ago, is against this move, and claims its corrosive. However, note said pump was more to 15+ years old (actually closer to 20, I think) AND that in terms of salinity my hot tub water is lower than those that use SWG for their hot tubs. So my OWN take is that the soft water is fine, but do change it periodically so it doesn't build too much salt.
In the winter, my shop water source closest to hot tub is raw wellwater with high-ish iron.
Originally, I used this to contol metal, one dose on start up: Amazon.com : Leisure Time D Spa Metal Gon, Pint : Spa Metal Gone : Patio, Lawn Garden
(Note this is not a brand we recommend for pools...but is suited to hot tub size.) But in my case, in snowy cold ams I'd periodically forget to use the weekly "defender" and I'd get yellow-orange tint back.
I've since experimented with a spa/pool pre filter with an alleged 8,000 gallon capacity. If you read the Amazon reviews, it gets four stars but some say it doesn't work. Others say is gets much less capacity, eg 5,000 gal before loosing effectiveness. Also note that neither. Pre-filter OR water softening system actually COMPLETELY removes iron once its in the 2 ppm range...above 2 ppm, "iron curtain" type maganese fiters are allegedly more effective (and expensive
Read...and possibly use this far less expensive option...at your own risk Amazon.com : Pre Fresh Garden Hose End Water Filter all purpose, pool, spa, hot tub, pets, car wash : Garden Hose Parts : Patio, Lawn GardenIn my setting/condition/level of well iron (aporox 2 pm raw) his particular prefilter works for me and prevents both tinted water and stains -- without it, orange tint upon shocking. However, I suspect efficacy and the mixed results reported with pre filters kinda depends on HOW MUCH iron you have in the water, how much builds up in the water etc. So YMMV.
Those of us with wells have to experiment a bit to find the right balance for our unique parameters. My preference is soft water, then adding calcium to 150. But in hard winter, I can't make that work or I blow the back flow...
(ask me how I know
Best wishes for swift do-over and some nice autumnal soaks