My first SLAM....and still SLAM-ing

Re: Do I need a new main PCB panel?

Well...being that it was my first time (9/06/2016) testing my water with TF-100, or any at home tests, first time my CH-850, 2nd time(1 hour later) CH-750, other results on that date:
TC-3
PH-7.2
FC-3.5
CC-1
CH-750
TA-100
CYA-60

Now I just tested tonight: FC-33 and CC-3
 
Re: Do I need a new main PCB panel?

The CH is high, but we can talk about that after you get the SLAM complete. With a CYA of 60 you need to maintain a FC of 24 min. As soon as you see the CC level come down, if your water is clear,you will run a OCLT.
 
Re: Do I need a new main PCB panel?

Fine , I'm just saying that according to the Chlorine/CYA Chart for a CYA of 70 the shock level is 24. The FC must never drop below 24. If you are using 31 for a target what is it at when you check it after an hour or so?

BTW:
You may get a bit more input into this process by changing the title. Just go back to your first post, select "edit post". And you should be able to change the title field. If you rename it something like "My First SLAM" or even "Help with my first SLAM" you may get a little more experienced advice.
 
Actually, the SLAM level for a CYA of 70 is an FC of 28. Staying closer to 28 might just help you save some $$ on bleach a bit. Going over your SLAM level a bit is fine from time to time, especially if you have to leave the house for a while and need a little extra protection until you get back. No need to keep it higher all the time though. Now it's more a matter of patience and doing all the other tasks as noted on the SLAM page. Good luck!
 
Re: Do I need a new main PCB panel?

Thanks....I get liquid chlorine 2.5 gallons at 10.5% for $3.99, good price, so not problem in keeping it higher....I work from home so I can test as often as I want/need.
I brush, vacuum and backwash filter everyday, even though I not see anything in the water anymore (all clear).
 
After pouring 1.5 gal of chlorine at 7.30am (got tired about not getting done already)
Results: 10.30am FC-37
CC-0.5
Good news....never had my CC at 0.5 ......getting closer :)...maybe that 1.5 gal (much over pool calculator suggestion) did the kill? :)
 
We had @2" of rain here last night, so my results are not good enough to end the slam.
9/16 at 8pm FC-35, CC-.5
9/17 at 8pm FC-32.5, CC-.5 or less
I do not know if the rain made the FC drop or I still have other things in the water eating my chlorine....any idea?
 

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Rain on it's own typically doesn't have a drastic effect on testing unless it's really significant enough to cause a large water exchange (FC/CYA) or long/hard enough to drive-up pH a little. In your case, I would simply press-on with patience and perseverance to maintain your SLAM. If there is something in the water (organics), the bleach will take care of it. You're doing a fine job. Keep it up.
 
Finally done with my SLAM-ing :wink:
Passed OCLT and clear water.
Now need to wait @ how long for chlorine to drop to normal? hours? days?
Only when all is back to normal numbers I can start to take care of CH scale in the walls?
And what is beat way to deal with CH scale? .....sorry lots of questions :confused:
 
It won't take long for the FC to drop on it's own with a good sunny FL day. Since you were at 35, it should drop into the 20's by the later part of the day. You'll just have to check every few hours to know when you're back at your target. As for scale, the two most common methods I'm aware of are acid washing and/or physically removing stubborn scale. Most tend to rely on the acid wash and find it adequate in most scale situations. That's not my area of expertise, so others may chime-in with more details.

By the way, congrats on the SLAM!
 
I will be running my pump for 8 hours a day, How high should I set the SWG for as a start, then adjust to the level to where it produces enough chlorine to maintain at @ 5ppm....or is just a matter of time to figure it out?
 
I would suggest starting at 50% and test the FC level each evening for the first couple days while adjusting the percentage setting based on how the FC test results compare to your FC target level. It should only take a couple of days to get things basically in range and then you can fine tune more slowly from there.

Pool School - Water Balance for SWGs
 
Howdy neighbor! Glad to hear you had a successful slam.

I also have an Aqua Rite w/ T-15 in my 11,000 gallon pool. My CYA is 60-70. For reference, I run it for about 2:45 each day at just under 60% output. So 165 minutes @ 60% output = 99 minutes of chlorination. Your pool is about 50% larger so you probably need about 50% more chlorination. So a starting point might be about 150 minutes of chlorination per day. So with 8 hours (640 minutes) of runtime to get 150 minutes of chlorination you need about 31%. That would be a decent starting point because each pool varies some. I try to think of my SWCG chlorination in total minutes of run time. That way, when I adjust pump run time seasonally it's easy to figure out where to set the SWCG percentage. Runtime X % Output = Minutes of Chlorination.

The algae you just killed was working your SWCG to death. I too was guilty of suspecting a faulty SWCG when in fact algae was eating everything it was producing.
 
I am trying to lower my CH which is at 650.
I am on well water with CH of 450....so no good to refill straight from the well.
Water from faucet, that goes through all my filtration system for the house, CH is 75.
Question, will it be too much to do the added water for the pool from faucet (through filtration system water)?
Also TA-154
PH-7.5
 
Time for a little study.

Do some more reading and you will begin to understand tha CH in pool water only goes one way, and that's up. There are only a couple way to reduce calcium in pool water. One way for calcium to leave is for the water to be drained and replaced with lower CH water (either tap water, softened water, or RO treatment). Another would be for the calcium to precipitate as scale on the surface of the pool (which you don't want). That's it. So you can slow the rise of CH by using low CH water as make up for evaporation and splash out, but unless you have an huge amount of splash out its still going to rise.

The secret to preventing scale (or in your case additional scale) is controlling CSI. CSI stands for Calcite Saturation Index. If you enter all your test results and readings in Pool Math, you will see the calculated CSI near the bottom of the chart. While the CH tells you how much calcium is in the water, the CSI tells you if that calcium will (if correct) stay dissolved in the water or will (if too high) precipitate out as scale on the pool surface. Also (if too low) the water can actually damage the pool by dissolving calcium right out of the plaster. The CSI is a calculated using CH, TA, pH, CYA, Temp and other factors. The one factor of these over which you have the most control is the pH. Learn about CSI and how to control it and you can master the art of preventing scale. As CH rises in water, maintaining a balanced CSI becomes more and more difficult, but I and others here have been successful in maintaining scale free pools with CH well in excess of 1,000.

Since the factor most critical in balancing CSI is pH, you must maintain stable control of pH. Scale in a pool is usually a sign that the pH was allowed to get way too high and left there for way too long. In a pool with a SWG the pH will have a tendency to rise. Slowing that rise and buffering rapid pH changes can be accomplished by maintaining a relatively low TA.

TA normally goes up and down with changes in TA, but there is a way to lower it. You lower the pH to about 7.2 with MA. Then use aeration to raise pH back to about 7.8. It seems that when aeration raises pH, it doesn't take the TA back up with it. So by repeating the process the TA can be lowered.

Now that is the beginning of learning how to prevent adding more scale to the pool. You should also note that when the CSI is at any level below the ideal zero number, you may actually see an increase in the CH due to softer scale being redeposited into the water.

End of today's lesson.....
 

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