My Aqua Rite stopped generating chlorine a couple days ago. The power light comes on, but no other lights are on. The no-flow light doesn't blink when starting the pump as it normally would. Here are the numbers-
2500
82
30.2
0.00
50P
0
AL - 8
r1.40
The chlorine ppm display was reading 2900 the day before it stopped working.
The AL-8 seems weird since it's only supposed to range from AL-0 to AL-5. It's usually on AL-0 since I don't have any automation. I tried changing it back to AL-0 by switching between auto and super-chlorinate, but it stays on AL-8. The switch itself seems to be good, as I can switch the temperature between Fahrenheit and Celsius.
My T-15 cell is 2 years old. I tried swapping it with a known working cell, but it didn't make a difference. The fuse looks good. With the fuse out, all lights and the display are off, so I'm assuming the fuse is good.
We had some thunderstorms in the area lately but I don't see any obvious signs of burning inside the control box or on the PCB board. The varistor seems to be completely intact, but it's cold to the touch. I'm wondering if that could mean it's failed, even though from what I've been reading, the power & generating lights usually come on briefly then go out when the varistor is bad.
Any ideas what else I can do to troubleshoot this? Does it sound like a bad PCB board?
Thanks,
Steve
2500
82
30.2
0.00
50P
0
AL - 8
r1.40
The chlorine ppm display was reading 2900 the day before it stopped working.
The AL-8 seems weird since it's only supposed to range from AL-0 to AL-5. It's usually on AL-0 since I don't have any automation. I tried changing it back to AL-0 by switching between auto and super-chlorinate, but it stays on AL-8. The switch itself seems to be good, as I can switch the temperature between Fahrenheit and Celsius.
My T-15 cell is 2 years old. I tried swapping it with a known working cell, but it didn't make a difference. The fuse looks good. With the fuse out, all lights and the display are off, so I'm assuming the fuse is good.
We had some thunderstorms in the area lately but I don't see any obvious signs of burning inside the control box or on the PCB board. The varistor seems to be completely intact, but it's cold to the touch. I'm wondering if that could mean it's failed, even though from what I've been reading, the power & generating lights usually come on briefly then go out when the varistor is bad.
Any ideas what else I can do to troubleshoot this? Does it sound like a bad PCB board?
Thanks,
Steve