You will be so glad you did! This forum is great!
[emoji176] Lisa P.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[emoji176] Lisa P.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Milky white water after gritty substance removal
- Thread starter Thomk
- Start date
You people are crazy!!! What have I gotten myself in to???? Kidding..
So the package will be here Monday (I just checked UPS) and I will do the tests as soon as it arrives. I assume the test has directions in it?
More than anything I'm curious to see what exactly the problem is here. I have a new filter and it's been running for days and I the pool is getting worse somehow. It's 85 degrees here today and we can't swim.
I'm hoping you guys will make me look like the big hero!
So the package will be here Monday (I just checked UPS) and I will do the tests as soon as it arrives. I assume the test has directions in it?
More than anything I'm curious to see what exactly the problem is here. I have a new filter and it's been running for days and I the pool is getting worse somehow. It's 85 degrees here today and we can't swim.
I'm hoping you guys will make me look like the big hero!
Have we showed you any of the videos? I will post a link.
How to Use a Taylor Complete FAS-DPD Pool Water Test Kit K-2006 - YouTube
I can guess we do look crazy with the cheers about you ordering the test kit BUT we know how to help you IF you have the kit. Without it................nope.
Kim
How to Use a Taylor Complete FAS-DPD Pool Water Test Kit K-2006 - YouTube
I can guess we do look crazy with the cheers about you ordering the test kit BUT we know how to help you IF you have the kit. Without it................nope.
Kim
Ok the results are in.
FC: 1ppm
CC: 0
TC: 1
pH: 7.2
TA: 150
CH: 225
CYA: It was totally full and I could still see the black dot so infinite I guess? Or 0. Maybe I did it wrong, I followed the instructions. I also know I added about 5 pounds of conditioner this year.
Also, here is a photo of the pH and Chlorine test:
- - - Updated - - -
Ok the results are in.
FC: 1ppm
CC: 0
TC: 1
pH: 7.2
TA: 150
CH: 225
CYA: It was totally full and I could still see the black dot so infinite I guess? Or 0. Maybe I did it wrong, I followed the instructions. I also know I added about 5 pounds of conditioner this year.
Also, here is a photo of the pH and Chlorine test:
- - - Updated - - -
I don't know why there are 3 copies of that picture. And it appears my text has been repeated for some reason too, sorry..
- - - Updated - - -
I don't know why there are 3 copies of that picture. And it appears my text has been repeated for some reason too, sorry..
FC: 1ppm
CC: 0
TC: 1
pH: 7.2
TA: 150
CH: 225
CYA: It was totally full and I could still see the black dot so infinite I guess? Or 0. Maybe I did it wrong, I followed the instructions. I also know I added about 5 pounds of conditioner this year.
Also, here is a photo of the pH and Chlorine test:
- - - Updated - - -
Ok the results are in.
FC: 1ppm
CC: 0
TC: 1
pH: 7.2
TA: 150
CH: 225
CYA: It was totally full and I could still see the black dot so infinite I guess? Or 0. Maybe I did it wrong, I followed the instructions. I also know I added about 5 pounds of conditioner this year.
Also, here is a photo of the pH and Chlorine test:
- - - Updated - - -
I don't know why there are 3 copies of that picture. And it appears my text has been repeated for some reason too, sorry..
- - - Updated - - -
I don't know why there are 3 copies of that picture. And it appears my text has been repeated for some reason too, sorry..
Attachments
LOL TFP does that every once in a while. They are trying to figure out why.
So what stands out to you? I see two things that stand out to me.
FC and TA
FC is too low and TA is too high.
For FC bleach or chlorine (same thing just different %).
I am going to link you to how to lower the TA.
Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity
How does your water look today?
Kim
So what stands out to you? I see two things that stand out to me.
FC and TA
FC is too low and TA is too high.
For FC bleach or chlorine (same thing just different %).
I am going to link you to how to lower the TA.
Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity
How does your water look today?
Kim
It's cloudy like every day. The FC is always too low and the TA is always high in this pool. I have leveled them out before it doesn't fix the cloudiness....
As I said before, I don't think it's the chemical balance, it's something odd. Maybe dead algae, but I'm not sure how to test for that. I bought a brand new filter and that has not seemed to make any difference at all.
Anyone?
Anyone?
Okay here we go. Remember the SLAM link posted to you on page 1? That is what you need to do. It is the first line of defence against trouble in the pool
Get you water in line using these guide lines. The one that will be a little different is the PH. It should be at 7.2 for a SLAM.
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Brush, brush, brush some more.
Take pics of your steps so we can watch it with you to see if it clears.
Kim
- - - Updated - - -
Have you taken any of the water out of your pool and put it in a clear cup and watched to see what happens over time?
Get you water in line using these guide lines. The one that will be a little different is the PH. It should be at 7.2 for a SLAM.
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Brush, brush, brush some more.
Take pics of your steps so we can watch it with you to see if it clears.
Kim
- - - Updated - - -
Have you taken any of the water out of your pool and put it in a clear cup and watched to see what happens over time?
Have you completed an overnight chlorine loss test yet?
[emoji176] Lisa P.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[emoji176] Lisa P.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pogue,
I think they just got their kit today. So probably not.
Besides I don't think they are to the point where it would make sense yet anyway....
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Thom,
If you put that much CYA in, and you now have ZERO, (if the sample stayed clear and you saw the dot clearly, then you do have zero-- The value decreases as the vial fills up, it's not like a measuring cup...) then the chlorine demand could be from ammonia...
One of the mods posted recently about a couple ways to figure out if it's probable...
I know one way is to dose a 5 gallon bucket of pool water with a tablespoon(?) of bleach, mix really well and test just like you would normally... Wait 30 mins, and test again. If the drop is less than 25%, I would probably test again after another 30 minutes.
You'll be able to see a couple things... First, you'll get a good chlorine reading, and know what it's supposed to look like
...2nd, you'll see how fast it drops, which it will bottom out quickly if there's ammonia... 3rd, you can use that same bucket of water and dose it repeatedly, in order to figure out how much chlorine might be needed to get things on the right track in your pool.
Basically,you are using the bucket and creating a miniature version of your pool, with the water from your pool. It makes it easier to figure some things out. And you will be able to see the light at the end of the pool shaped tunnel...
Some people have been able to test with an ammonia test that's usually used for aquarium testing.... But that won't tell you the whole story, anyway... And it costs more money and you've gotta wait until you can go get it.
The bucket test lets you start looking for answers immediately. It's what I would do if it were my pool.
I am not 100% sure on the amount of bleach to add... But I know there are others here who can chime in with that.
I think they just got their kit today. So probably not.
Besides I don't think they are to the point where it would make sense yet anyway....
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Thom,
If you put that much CYA in, and you now have ZERO, (if the sample stayed clear and you saw the dot clearly, then you do have zero-- The value decreases as the vial fills up, it's not like a measuring cup...) then the chlorine demand could be from ammonia...
One of the mods posted recently about a couple ways to figure out if it's probable...
I know one way is to dose a 5 gallon bucket of pool water with a tablespoon(?) of bleach, mix really well and test just like you would normally... Wait 30 mins, and test again. If the drop is less than 25%, I would probably test again after another 30 minutes.
You'll be able to see a couple things... First, you'll get a good chlorine reading, and know what it's supposed to look like
...2nd, you'll see how fast it drops, which it will bottom out quickly if there's ammonia... 3rd, you can use that same bucket of water and dose it repeatedly, in order to figure out how much chlorine might be needed to get things on the right track in your pool. Basically,you are using the bucket and creating a miniature version of your pool, with the water from your pool. It makes it easier to figure some things out. And you will be able to see the light at the end of the pool shaped tunnel...
Some people have been able to test with an ammonia test that's usually used for aquarium testing.... But that won't tell you the whole story, anyway... And it costs more money and you've gotta wait until you can go get it.
The bucket test lets you start looking for answers immediately. It's what I would do if it were my pool.
I am not 100% sure on the amount of bleach to add... But I know there are others here who can chime in with that.
Gotcha about today! I was suggesting it because OP wasn't sure it was a chemical balance problem. The OCLT will determine if there is something in the pool consuming the chlorine; not just for determining the end of a SLAM. I like to have baseline data.
But again, it isn't even possible if the test kit came today. [emoji6]
[emoji176] Lisa P.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Cloudy water is almost always an algae bloom. Add to that the additional chlorine consumption is further evidence that there is algae. If you want one more piece of evidence raise the FC up to 10ppm and Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT) to confirm if there is organic matter in the pool consuming chlorine.
You are saying to add bleach and not chlorine to my pool?
- - - Updated - - -
Also, if it IS algae what do I do about that? Buy Algicide?
Pogue,
I think they just got their kit today. So probably not.
Besides I don't think they are to the point where it would make sense yet anyway....
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Thom,
If you put that much CYA in, and you now have ZERO, (if the sample stayed clear and you saw the dot clearly, then you do have zero-- The value decreases as the vial fills up, it's not like a measuring cup...) then the chlorine demand could be from ammonia...
One of the mods posted recently about a couple ways to figure out if it's probable...
I know one way is to dose a 5 gallon bucket of pool water with a tablespoon(?) of bleach, mix really well and test just like you would normally... Wait 30 mins, and test again. If the drop is less than 25%, I would probably test again after another 30 minutes.
You'll be able to see a couple things... First, you'll get a good chlorine reading, and know what it's supposed to look like
Basically,you are using the bucket and creating a miniature version of your pool, with the water from your pool. It makes it easier to figure some things out. And you will be able to see the light at the end of the pool shaped tunnel...
Some people have been able to test with an ammonia test that's usually used for aquarium testing.... But that won't tell you the whole story, anyway... And it costs more money and you've gotta wait until you can go get it.
The bucket test lets you start looking for answers immediately. It's what I would do if it were my pool.
I am not 100% sure on the amount of bleach to add... But I know there are others here who can chime in with that.
- - - Updated - - -
Also, if it IS algae what do I do about that? Buy Algicide?
I only have a minute before work so I'm going to jump in to answer 2 quick questions...
bleach is chlorine, sodium hypochlorite is bleach is liquid chlorine
algaecide is more for prevention than to deal with an active algae bloom
bleach aka liquid chlorine is the answer.
The SLAM process is guaranteed to clear up any algae and anything else organic that could be going on in a pool.
The OCLT that pooldv linked to would be a good starting point. It will tell you if there is something going on in the pool. A really quick overview is that....chlorine is consumed by 2 things, organics and sunlight. So by doing the OCLT (Testing just after dark and just before dawn) we remove sunlight from the equation. That means if you lose more than 1FC overnight something organic consumed it. If that is the case, the SLAM process is the answer.
I'm sure someone else will help to explain more. I have to leave for work in a few minutes and I'm only halfway through my sandwich and I'm not dressed yet!
LOL
I'll try to post from work later too...but not until a break.
bleach is chlorine, sodium hypochlorite is bleach is liquid chlorine
algaecide is more for prevention than to deal with an active algae bloom
bleach aka liquid chlorine is the answer.
The SLAM process is guaranteed to clear up any algae and anything else organic that could be going on in a pool.
The OCLT that pooldv linked to would be a good starting point. It will tell you if there is something going on in the pool. A really quick overview is that....chlorine is consumed by 2 things, organics and sunlight. So by doing the OCLT (Testing just after dark and just before dawn) we remove sunlight from the equation. That means if you lose more than 1FC overnight something organic consumed it. If that is the case, the SLAM process is the answer.
I'm sure someone else will help to explain more. I have to leave for work in a few minutes and I'm only halfway through my sandwich and I'm not dressed yet!
LOL
I'll try to post from work later too...but not until a break.
Yes, we use liquid chlorine, aka bleach. You can buy it at the grocery store in 8.25% or at a pool store for 11% or 12%.
Whichever is most convenient and economical for you. The very first thing I would do is the OCLT. That will give you some good baseline data.
[emoji176] Lisa P.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Whichever is most convenient and economical for you. The very first thing I would do is the OCLT. That will give you some good baseline data.
[emoji176] Lisa P.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk