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No, nothing to worry about

Calcium Chloride is added to the plaster so it sets up quicker for the installer. That batch could have been abnormally high or too much water was added and it diluted the pigment. Either way, it's not scale and it's not etched.... and there's not much you can do about it unfortunately.

That's diamond Brite not AquaBright

Try CLR

:goodjob:

The vitamin C will work just fine on the rust stains. For the other marks try very fine wet/dry sand paper and try to blend the discoloration. Be very careful to not get too aggressive with this. The coating is not very thick.

Channel drains :pukel:

That's a happy dance... This would be mad :rant:

CAD=:party: You just took your first step toward an owner/builder pool!

You're in Riverside and this is the first I hear from you :hammer: I'd be happy to help with the process. Who's doing the plaster? You could have gotten a smokin deal on some AquaBright :cheers:

You should hit up your neighbors. They did their pool as a DIY owner/builder and saved a ton of money: Owner/builder SoCal

:goodjob:

All of the above are fine... 951-515-0564

Aquatica was Kona Coast which is almost white. I would have much rather it been one of the darker colors but I'm not the one who gets to make those decisions.

Sure do. That reminds me I need to go through that thread and fix the pictures :brickwall:

AquaBright would sure compliment your user name! Welcome :wave:

Correct

Add enough to get your TA a little higher and the pH will rise on its own. It would help to have a bunch of splashing to aerate the water. You can add borax later if you want but you don't want to mess with it now. Borax can aggressively raise the pH and that coupled with the baking soda could...

Your CYA is fine and you don't need borax.

Start with 5 lbs and let the pump run for 15 mins and test again. Once the TA is up around 60, test the pH. If it it's still low, find a way to aerate the water and it should quickly rise into the 7's. Make sure to brush the pool really well after you add the baking soda.

If the water immediately turns pink your TA is 0 and the pH is probably near 4-4.5. Use baking soda to raise the TA which will also raise the pH for you. Shoot for a TA of 60 by adding small amounts of baking soda and testing before adding more.

The plaster doesn't have to be perfect, it just can't be delaminated and crumbling. The trouble is most people don't choose to redo their pool while their plaster is still in good shape, they wait until the pool is nearly self destructing before they take action. AquaBright is an awesome...

If the existing plaster is in good enough shape to be coated then it ends up being competitive with replastering. It gets very expensive if the pool needs to be replastered and then coated since you are basically paying for two finishes. Sorry to be vague but I don't want to mislead anyone...

From a few of the pictures it looks like the tile was placed over the bottom section of the coping that's flush with the pool shell. Is that the case? How big is the gap at the largest point? Does the speration wrap the entire pool? The island? I'd like to build a bridge with a sheer descent...

Unfortunately it's going to be hard to tell the extent of the damage until a good amount of demo has taken place. The best bet would be to contact a couple pool remodeling contractors to get their take. It looks like a replaster is likely in order as well as new tile and even decking since it...

I don't think the bond beam is damaged. It looks as if your decking has lifted so you will need to find the source of the upward pressure. Check the surrounding areas to see if they are over saturated with water from irrigation and/or rain. Tree roots can also do a great deal of damage. It also...

How far below grade? Where is the floor of the bar elevation in relation to the street?

The SWG chlorine production is cut off based on water temperature and given your ambient temps, I would expect the water to be very cold as well. Most cells cut off around 55 degrees but I am unfamiliar with yours. Your chlorine level will decrease if you aren't adding any additional chlorine...

Lower the SWG percentage or turn it off for a few days. The rest looks fine. Once the pH rises above 7.8 lower it to 7.2 and repeat as needed to lower the TA. A TA of 60-70 should serve you well but you don't need to be in a hurry to get there.

What's the pH and TA?