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Your CH is low for plaster. You should be up around 350 to avoid damaging the plaster. Not sure what you mean by 'CA'. If it is 'CYA' then you are low for SWG. You should target 70-80. What is your TA? With SWG your pH will tend to rise so most of us try to keep it on the low side. Based on...

This has been discussed here at length. The recommended technique is to pour slowly (pencil sized stream) in front of a return with the pump running. That being said, I dilute into a 5 gallon bucket of pool water and then add. Some people think this extra step causes more potential for...

The acid/base demand test isn't really needed if you use poolMath with a full set of test results (pH, TA, and Borate if used). I have the k-2006 and haven't used the acid/base demand tests in years.

One consistent theme that you will see if you stick around TFP for a while is that the so called "experts" (PS and PB) are really motivated by profit. If your builder doesn't have access to SWG systems, or his profit margin is lower that would explain this attitude. SWG pools have 1/10th the...

Outdoor pools have the ultimate UV system for free in form of the Sun.

I would delete the UV, in floor cleaner and chlorine feeder and add a Polaris cleaner or robot and SWG.

We don't recommend UV systems (for a residential pool it is expense with no benefit) and in floor cleaning is not well thought of. Do some searching on the site for these and you will find plenty of discussion. We always recommend keeping FC at a level appropriate for the CYA. Less than 1ppm...

CYA will go down slowly with backwashing (and very slightly from oxidation) but you have no reason to believe that it will go down significantly in a week or two. You joked about your wife wanting the FC to be 10ppm, but with CYA = 90 your target FC should be 10. :lookhere: Chlorine CYA Chart

With a TA reading that high have you ruled out the static issue? The TA test is susceptible to static electricity which causes small drops and thus a high reading.The solution is to wipe the tip with a clean damp cloth as described in the extended test directions.

We even recommend 20ppm CYA for indoor pools. It acts as a chlorine buffer which is less harsh on swimsuits and makes daily dosing easier with more consistent FC levels.

From their website: So if "Chemical Use" is a euphemism for chlorine (and it does state that chlorine is needed) how are these healthy microbes thriving? UV light kills good and bad microbes, but apparently chlorine is targeted to only kill bad microbes? Hogwash. Also, since when do...

That's a great line :D

Low CH is not an issue for a vinyl pool, but high CH can be an issue for any pool. +1 to Tado921's position of a few times per season. If it is high you may want to measure more often to keep a handle on it and determine if any action is needed (drain/refill or maintain low pH)

I didn't see anyone else address this yet...Sodium Chloride is salt and will not raise CH. Did you mean Calcium Chloride (aka hardness up)?

Reading zero pressure on low speed is totally normal.

What actual product are you adding for TA? Sounds insane to me. Assuming it's Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) every 10 lbs would add 35 to 20000 gallon pool (you didn't specify pool size or anything else for that matter). How many days have you done this? Edit: I see 12000 gallons in your...

In balance? What are your numbers? FC, CC, CYA, CH, TA, PH Do you understand the FC/CYA relationship as taught in pool school? Do you understand that tabs are adding CYA and really aren't BBB? One of those 'B' is bleach.

CYA to the nearest ppb. Impressive. Not.

Welcome. You have come to the right place. You are at the point where it is going to start feeling like you are drinking from the fire hose with all you have to learn. Don't despair, it isn't really that hard and there are plenty of knowledgeable people here to help. First off, you need to...

I am not sure I understand the question. If you mean is there a schedule to refilling the answer is no. The reason most people have to drain is CYA accumulation caused by dichlor and trichlor use. This is the dreaded "chlorine lock" or "old water" that the pool stores invented to cover up...

No. If you fill you tube with straight pool water you will find that the dot is perfectly visible. Even very cloudy pool water isn't enough to effect the test.

The OP has another post on the same topic. I have read through both and I haven't seen a consistent story that tells me his salt is really 44,000. Before doing 90% water replacement I would verify salt level. JD, in the future keep all your related posts in the same thread so people can follow...

The unfortunate answer here is that it may be much higher. As awful as pool store testing is in general, the CYA test is the one they really get wrong. Fortunately you have be shocking with Cacium Hypochlorite so maybe it is only 90. And yes, it will be very difficult to SLAM with CYA that...

Welcome. I know you asked a lot of questions, but the main issue is: You need to take control of your pool and stop trusting pool store testing and advice. You should already know this since you said: No. You haven't been "seriously shocking." What you have been doing is briefly raising...

Agreed. If you are following the TFP tenets (proper testing and maintaining FC constantly above minimum for the CYA level) you should never have to SLAM or "shock" you pool. Comparing the cost of clearing a swamp against a $5 bag of shock is bordering on troll behavior. A better comparison...

Amen to that. Don't even mention what you see with the pool light on at night. What are all those infinitesimal particles doing in there?

You may have won the award for most on the ball newbie. Looks 100% correct. Make sure you keep up on the slam as often as possible; especially for the first day or two. And like you said, don't raise you CYA until after the SLAM is complete. Kudos!

TA doesn't matter for the SLAM. Just bring it up to recommended range. What do you usually use to chlorinate? SWG users like their TA a little lower.

No excuses. J.k. :-)

For vinyl liner forget the calcium; low is fine. For SWG keep TA low too. If you bring it up at all only do 10 or so. TA plus aeration equals pH rise and SWG equals aeration. Your big problem is FC. FC! FC! Why are you at zero??!!! You should be SLAMing. That means bringing FC up to shock...