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Mike, I assume you fixed the leak??? PLEASE do not drain the pool! Without test results it's hard to say exactly what you ought do. However, perimeter dumping a gallon of 6% bleach and then brushing the pool is a good start. Repeat as necessary and let us know some test results (take the...

Welcome to TFP!! If your fc and cc levels are 'in check' I'd recommend brushing those areas ~daily to expose them to the abundant fc, It wouldn't hurt to shock the pool to black algae levels, to really kill it and then just brush those areas regularly. Others will chime in, but we need a full...

And supporting this very helpful site! Kudos to you for knowing sh*t from Shineola and following the expert advice here to make your pool not only algae free, but trouble free :cheers:

If you have the fiber-optic lights, I wouldn't worry about cleaning the inside. (if you somehow got algae in there, it couldn't get into the pool without the pool leaking [because the o-ring was bad])

Scrape the spot with your fingernail and rub the scraping on the back of a white business card - if the smudge is green - it's black algae and treat the pool appropriately.

Hi :wave: Butterfly asked me to check out this thread. The algae/ 'bio-nasties' might be hiding in the low circulation areas of your pool (in the skimmer mouths/ bodies, the light niches, under the ladder treads...) If you can, while your cl is at ~ shock, brush those areas and physically...

Re: Theres GOT to be an easier way!!! Touche! It's probably MY ineptitude :P

Re: Theres GOT to be an easier way!!! I bought the Wall Whale Brush and it works GREAT on the walls, but is a PITA on the floors (where Julie's problems are). Maybe I wasn't using it correctly, but I bet there's a reason it's the WALL whale brush :wink:

Re: Theres GOT to be an easier way!!! Please do as crook suggested and post the #s. I'm thinking the 'sandpaper' feel is calcium depositing on the sides :( With a 'moon surface' bottom, you'll need to manually brush those divots to keep algae away :evil:

Welcome to TFP!! Any chance you folks run a SWCG pool? While I don't know or understand the reactions, it seems that linear algaecides create a crusty white foam in the presence of ~1500+ ppm salt. As Jason said, it lasts less than a week.

You also might try some baking soda on a kitchen scrubbie (you know, one side sponge and the other scrubbie) - apply the backing soda to the scrubbie side and see if that works in a test area.

James, what % bleach or does it not matter? Also, does the peroxide affect the pH?

Taz, don't be hard on yourself :hammer: I've got a true white water mold issue going on in one of the pools I manage ('cottonballs' hanging off the sides in places). You were erring on the side of caution by doing what you did :goodjob: I'd say it's better to be sure that the pool has safe...

Welcome to TFP!! Before we can even start guessing as to what this is, we need a full set of water test numbers 8-) As you are in the business, like me, I strongly suggest the TF 100 kit (see my sig) - I stopped using the other kits a few years ago (though the Taylor K 2006 C is a very decent...

Don't sweat the sight glass, it has water in which all the chlorine has been used up with no way to replace. However, it's not a problem because that water doesn't come in contact with your pool's water :-D If it's for aesthetics, follow Bama's advice 8-)

Even with a sufficient level of chlorine in most of the pool, there can be areas of low 'interchange' which will allow algae to develop :evil: The best thing to do in such a case is to brush or somehow manually increase the interchange - sorry, but it happens - a couple minutes every other day...

Why dilute the bleach?? :? Pour that stuff on full strength, scrub a little and repeat! Black algae is a nasty b*stard and you need to have a 'take no prisoners' approach to even put a dent in it. The straight bleach (the more concentrated, the better) poured directly on it will be quicker...

Do you have a multiport with the "recirc" option? While not optimal, you could use that to at least move the water and chlorine (spread the chlorine love) without risking having a fatal blockage of the filter while you're not there to take care of it. Just a thought that you might make use of. :)

Mark, my bad - I thought you had read Pool School :oops:

Welcome to TFP!! Mark, have you tried chlorine and vit. C on the stains? They look too uniform to be black algae! There is ~ a pattern to the stain, almost looks like some liquid has been dribbled across it. A way to test for black algae is to scrape some of it with a fingernail and smear...

Casey, welcome to TFP!! You've found the BEST place to help clear that swamp :pukel: You could read Pool School to find out how to deal with your green monster but, PMing one of the Mods is your best bet :roll: :lol: HAPPY SPRING!! (I just planted my garden for this year - pics to follow...

Welcome to TFP ODL!! It's great to see pool dudes visiting the boards! The knowledge and experience you have will surely help the pool owners here (and probably the other pool dudes :wink: ) :goodjob:

Oh, they'd instantly go blind :lol: The water would be quite acidic and if they opened their eyes underwater, it would probably sting for a while :( But that acidic water is attacking your pool surface and any metal in the plumbing system :twisted: It's not linear, but I would suspect that...

Hi! Just a quick check, the TA test didn't turn immediately red when you added the R008? (did you add 2 drops ofthe R009, sulfuric acid, to reach the endpoint?) As Dave said, your pH is lower than 6.8 - I'm trying to gauge how much lower and the TA test can reveal several orders of magnitude...

Welcome to TFP!! I suppose your theory is possible, but even if it is, maintaining a free chlorine level closer to the max of the suggested levels in Chemgeek's chart (see link in my sig) should alleviate the issue :) I suspect that it's not phosphates but some other source of organics...

Cary, if it's what I think it is, you just converted to a bromine pool :| The results aren't in, but you may have a bromine pool for a while, this just means that you have to keep 2X the 'cl' reading when you test. :) Perhaps Richard knows how to tell when the pool is back to being chlorine...

Welcome to TFP!! If the motor still runs, you can probably salvage it :) An air leak can cause lack of prime or a clogged impeller (as well as a clogged filter - but you say the cart is new). I'd see if you can't figure out why water isn't flowing through an operational pump before emptying the...

Let me tell you that you did nothing wrong! :goodjob: It would have been preferable for you to be able to do the job right/ completely - but as you say, you were rushed for time and gave them a swimmable pool for their party. To have a pool go 'bad' on you takes quite a while of constant neglect...

I know others say to add the bleach in one spot in front of an active return, but I've always walked it around the perimeter with the pool running. I feel that doing it this way will both get the chlorine into all the water more quickly, and also, have the full effect more quickly 8-) Any...

Welcome to TFP!! Your chlorine #s are mixed up :oops: free cl + combined cl = total cl I'd imagine that you have .5 fc + .5 cc = 1 tc :wink: In any event you haven't got anywhere near enough fc in the pool to even touch the pink stuff :( See my sig for links to Pool School, CYA vs. FC chart...