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That's good progress, well done. You should keep going until you pass all three criteria, including water being clear. Water is safe to go in as long as FC is between min and slam level, and you can see the bottom (in the deep end).

With liquid chlorine and the TFP-way you are actually on your way out of the rabbit hole. You'll get there!

Making sure that pH is in the low 7s before starting a SLAM is important. There are multiple reasons, but I don't want to distract from your main concern, which is clearing your pool. Just one note: Keep in mind that the pH test starts to become unreliable above FC 10. Around 10, the pH...

I think we need to go a step back here. First thing you need is a proper test kit: . We generally recommend the TF-Pro. Until your kit arrives keep adding 3ppm worth of liquid chlorine per day. Once you have your kit, run all the tests from the kit and post the results in the form FC CC pH CYA...

OK, OK. Blue DOES look nicer...

Don't raise CYA to the recommended levels in the recommended for SWGs (around 70) before the SLAM. Only aim for the recommended range around 40 for now. Once you have cleared your swamp and passed the , you may go a bit higher.

But it's such a pretty green. It works really well with the decking. Sure you wanna go back to boring old blue?

Good to hear that this thread is helpful for you. Good luck with your SLAM.

That's true "fix it with some shoestring and chewing gum" spirit. Did you find those too in the filter? Just curious...

I'd keep it all together. Maybe @Newdude wants to move the thread to the algae forum, it has kind of outgrown the introduction stage.

Try to avoid using hydrochloric acid. Even though that's what the manufacturer recommends, it's not great for the cell. It takes some of the plate coating off, reducing the lifetime. Try first if you can push some scale off with an icy pole stick or similar or using a garden hose. Next step...

Do your SWG plates look scaled up? Did you add lots of that powdered chlorine, and was the SWG running while doing so? Usually we prefer to keep the SWG off during a SLAM anyway. The copper test tells you that currently there is no copper dissolved in the water. Copper that came out of...

Only the most finestest of language down here.

Either that, or cal-hypo. In both cases: A little is OK, just important to be aware of the side effects. PoolMath's "effects of adding" will show how much CYA a Dichlor addition, and how much CH a cal-hypo addition will add as a side effect of the intended FC increase. Golden Rule of TFP: Know...

Much better (y)

There's not really a magical threshold. It's just that let's say 95% of the chlorine attaches to CYA. It's protected from UV there, but has bugger all algae killing power even though it still shows up as FC in test. What needs to be done is to make sure that the remaining 5% that are not...

Sneaky buggers...

Nice Next round on me if you can get these cops brushin your pool :cheers:

That does sound like black algae then. Keep the SLAM going, and lots of brushing.

Let's confirm black algae first. Try the fingernail test. There are some falls alarms like copper staining which can look similar, but require different treatment. When buying trichlor tabs, make sure it's just that. None of that multi action nonsense with copper additives etc.

Can you post some close ups of the black stuff? Can you scrape if off with your finger nails? And when squished, it ends up greenish?

Yep, just put that in as 12.5% bleach like that: Even though for pool purposes it's usually sold as "liquid chlorine", we often just call it bleach. Same chemical as the stuff sold in the supermarkets for cleaning and laundry, just more concentrated. TFP used to recommend to just buy cheap...

Then I wouldn't stock up too heavily. And be prepared for some "educational" interventions from the pool stores when they see you lugging out the chlorine in bulk. They'll probably try to sell you some magic potions, or powdered "shock" which will be either Dichlor (a form of chlorinated CYA...

2kg CYA certainly has a significant effect on pH. On the other hand, most of the CYA change is already visible, so I don't think that the potentially remaining CYA in the filter will get pH much more down. I would test CYA and pH again before raising chlorine, and then lower pH if still in the...

How close is your chlorine source? Bunnings sells for example 15L return containers of 12.5% chlorine. You need about 4L of that to raise your FC by 10ppm. Use PoolMath to adjust that to your chlorine concentration. Consider your CYA 40ppm, we usually round up to the next ten for the purpose of...

Algae still visible? Do you have liquid chlorine at hand?

Yep, all good. Overread the bit with the signature first and didn't have my phone sideways of course to have it in my face, and didn't see Aussieta's reply first because I must have had an older page in the cache still

Ah, in the signature. Salt us fine for the Virons.

Sounds promising. Think you still need to share your logs in PoolMath, can't see them. You wanna do the sensitive test (25ml) for TA, the others are fine with the standard test (10ml).

For those not as accustomed with our fine products: That's Victoria Bitter, good stuff. It's certainly debatable whether it's preferable to coffee for brekky.