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What was the chemical in the "just plain shock" buckets? Adding 6 pounds of dichlor to 18,000 gallons of water will only add 20 ppm CYA. I still dont think you have a handle on how much CYA you have in the pool.

How are you testing the CYA? What jumped from 9 to 20+? The FC or CYA? You said at day 5, the CYA was 0, but was 20. That cant happen unless you have lots of water replacement. You also said the pool store had you dump in "buckets of shock". Was that dichlor? How did you measure a CYA levle...

How high are you taking the FC when you shock? Dont add anymore dichlor. All thats doing is increasing your CYA level to a point thats very difficult to shock. If your CYA level is truely 80 ppm, your shock level is now 30+ ppm.

Dump in the bleach, 7 gallons. Your next purchase should be a good test kit. Either the TF-100 or the Taylor 2006. Look at your pool store results from those 2 tests. Your CYA was 30 and now its 13. Your TA was 38 now its 24. Your pH was 7.6 now its 7.0. See how these results are not accurate...

With your stabilizer level at 30 (not sure thats a real number at this point but we will go with it) you will need to raise the chlorine level to around 20 ppm. For your size pool, thats about 7 gallons of 6% bleach. However, you will need closer to 20 gallons more than likely, since you are...

Welcome to TFP. The issue you have is that you do not have enough chlorine in your pool. You need to add enough chlorine to start killing all the algea. Algea will start using up the chlorine so you need to keep adding it to maintain a level that will keep killing the algea. Shocking the pool...

Yes, chlroine, chlorine, and more chlorine. I wouldnt do anything else too your water chems. Do not add any more CYA until you're finished shocking. The pH is on the high side, but not out of range. You could lower it to 7.5 or so if you wanted, then you need to add bleach to shock the pool. I'm...

The filter will not remove much of the metal, if any. The AA reduced the metal so now its just dissolved in the water. You will need to add a regular dose of metal sequesterant to the pool to keep the metal from dropping out and staining the liner again.

The cold water will slow down the growth of the algea, but it wont kill it completely. At 60 ppm CYA, you MA shock level is 34 ppm. So even at 10-12 ppm FC, your not killing the algea. The cold water is most likely keeping the rate of algea growth low, but you still need to follow the CYA/shock...

Probably 90% of the time the filter is not the issue. Thats why you got the advice you did. However, I've still not seen where you have posted up any results of an overnight loss test. If you havent done one, my suggestion is that you do. That would confirm you do not have any more organics...

There is your problem right there. Your filter is not working properly. When the water comes back out of the filter into the pool, it should be clean. So...you can add all the floc and clarifier you want and it will still do no good. You still have to remove the clump particulates. If the filter...

Ok, lets just take a step back for a minute and address these issues separately. Shufen first. We still really dont know whats going on with your FC level. I suspect Chem Geek is correct and you counted each drop as an FC ppm. If he's correct, you certainly shocked it to a high level, but i'm...

Just an FYI, not all IG pools have a bottom drain. Some have a side wall suction in the deep end, and some poorly built (IMO) have no main at all.

The only way to keep algea out of a pool is a properly chlorinated pool. Once its there, only shocking the pool the correct way will get rid of the algea. As JohnT said, floc is a waste of money and can cause problems worse than the algea. You wont find too many here at TFP that subscribe to...

hey stranger!!

Mustard algea is tough to get rid of but enough chlorine will do the trick. At 60 ppm CYA, shock level for mustard is around 35 ppm. If it is mustard, you dont have near enough chlorine at 10 ppm to even touch it.

Yeppers. :wink:

Call the city. Even stepping foot on anothers property is trespassing. Dumping something into a pool that you dont own is vandalism. Sounds harsh, but that's the reality. Having something like that next door is frustrating, but again, call the city and let them deal with it.

It's the same thing, for all intents and purposes here. mg/L=ppm. A ppm is a mg/kg. But, a liter of water at 4 degrees C weighs 1 kilogram, so 1mg/L=1 ppm. give or take based on temp. So his results are the same as what we use for ppm. Edit: ok, you beat me to it.

Good old chlorox bleach works really well. BTW, shock is a process, not really a product. You can shock with any form of chlorine. Liquid is cheapest and doesnt add anything unwanted to your pool like CYA or calcium.

Wow, looks nice! Yard looks tight to get a machine in. How did Bunky get it back there? (For everyone wondering, Athlon lives in the next town over and our pool builder was the same company).

Leslies in Shrewsbury on rt 9 will have it. Or Central Pool on rt 30 on the Natick/Framingham line. I know they have it. They sell all the reagents for a T-2006. Just dont buy anything else in there, they sell Bioguard :rant: Keith wont have it, either, BTW. You could try Northbridge pool...

Athlon, you have a PM. Look in upper left corner at "new messages"

Have you ever used an algecide that contains copper? Maybe pucks that have copper? Could also be manganese. Try holding a vitamin C tablet on the stains and see if they lighten up any.

What is your FC right now and what is the CYA (stabalizer) level? Where you need to keep your FC will depend on the CYA level. What kind of test kit are you using?

Yep, 47%.

My bet is still with the manganese, but I cant figure out where it might have come from except maybe the top off water. If it were mine, i'd hold off on raising the pH much. If it is metal, it could make it worse. My opinion is get some CYA in the pool, maybe increase the ph to 7.2, and go get a...

How much water did you add from the hose to top off the pool? Ever had this before? Purple is usually caused by manganese metal in the water.

I recently used the HTH brand Metal Control from walmart. Worked like a charm.

Foaming wouldn't matter if your closing the pool. Linearquat is ok, just not ideal. I'd agree with you if the pool was staying open. It wont hurt anything and why waste it. (edit: Scott posted when I was typing).