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Just to back that up, the above link sums things up fairly well without going into lots of technical details, if you want all the technical details of why these systems are bad just ask, or search the hundreds of threads about ionizers / mineral systems

Do those have expiration dates on them? Taylor started printing expiration dates on all of their bottles in January of 2015, before that they only had lot numbers. Expiry date is printed as 24 months after pack date

Just one note here, I would not invest too much time in trying to SLAM this pool right now, since the weather will be turning much cooler in the next few weeks in the DFW area. When water temperatures drop below 60 degrees algae growth drops off to a snails pace. Over the winter you can work...

I would suggest continuing SLAM level and do the overnight chlorine loss test again to confirm the algae / algaecide has burned off p.s remember that pH test is not valid when FC is over 10 ppm

I suspect part of the problem is the algaecide you used, there is a reason it is NOT listed as part of the SLAM process, depending on the type of algaecide you used it can confuse the process and cause chlorine consumption and or CC's to be shown on the test. The same goes for various yellow...

Personally I think the best thing you can do for these customers is sell them on a liquid chlorine injection pump that will add a fixed amount of Chlorine each day, then you can adjust the FC manually and tweak the output settings on the pump on your weekly visits. This would stop the roller...

On a serious topic you can probably get a replacement 2 speed motor for half that, changing it out should take less than 20 minutes as there are only 8 bolts to remove and replace on most pumps and the plumbing can all stay connected for a motor swap.

Well first you need some propane, then a big pot, ....... :)

Welcome, we can help, but you need to post accurate test numbers and to do that you really need your own quality test kit (either the Taylor K-2006 or the TF-Testkit TF-100) Personally I use and endorse the TF-100, as it is the better value in the long run plus they help support keeping this...

I would suggest the ones from tf-teskits, good quality gauge for low prices, why replace it with another junk "pool" gauge when you can get something much better. TFTestkits.net

All the dry chlorine products contain something that you probably don't want to be adding to your water if you live in California with water restrictions. This is either CYA for Dichlor or Trichlor which can only be effectively removed through water replacement, or Calcium in...

It did, although it took about 7 or 8 hours for all the suds to go away.

I added one of the Infusion venturi eyeballs to my deep end return a couple of years ago and can tell it improves circulation noticeably

This is just a heads up alert, I just added Dollar General house brand Concentrated Bleach to my pool and ended up with foaming, I suspect this bleach may be mislabeled or otherwise contaminated as I noticed there is now a "Splashless" version of this house brand bleach available at the store...

What they all said, don't drain now, wait until the risk of the pool popping out of the ground is lower, even then you may want to do multiple partial drains. Ike p.s. also it will help us give better advice if you can edit your location and add city or part of the state you are in. Much of...

Jack's magic is often suggested around here, but I have no first hand experience with it

The pool store is not your friend, they are in business to make money off of you, therefore they have no incentive to give you good advice, or care about the accuracy of their testing. The testing service is primarily a lure to get you in the door and a tool used to sell you chemicals. From a...

Many cheap algaecides contain copper which can turn your water, your hair green and stain your pool. The MSDS for this product shows that it is indeed 3.3% copper. You can treat this problem with routine additions of metal sequesterant or solve it with water replacement. Ike p.s. this is...

Keep in mind that the pH test is only valid at FC levels up to about 10 ppm, if your FC is over 10 the pH test it will falsely skew your pH readings which will effect your CSI. My advice is to partial drain and refill as soon as possible. Ike p.s. and stop using all that stabilized chlorine

Wait for a patch of sun to come out and re-do the CYA test with the sun to your back outdoors. I suspect it will still read lower than the Leslies test, but I am not sure by how much. The CYA test is the one test that really is lighting dependent for getting good results. You should also have...

CYA is very slow to degrade on its own (a couple of percent per month), in general it is only lost through water replacement. Try OCLT again tonight, my guess looking at it is you may have both algae and metals the ladder may be hiding algae

That is a question like asking about a Harbor Freight $3 multimeter that they sometimes give away for free with a $20 purchase vs a $300 Fluke brand professional meter For detailed answer read pool school in particular Pool School - Test Kits Compared Even here though the comparison does...

Well there is one thing you can do, scoop as much stuff out of the pool as possible using a pool rake (hoop thing that goes on the end of your pole)

YES, just chlorine for that, well you may need to get your pH in line first, then JUST LIQUID CHLORINE / BLEACH, but at a specific rate there are hundreds of swamp conversion photo threads here that started off looking worse than that and were cleared with just bleach and filtration.

Another question, have you used any MPS chlorine free shock? If so it will show up as CC on the common chlorine tests.

That looks a lot more like Iron in the water, not algae, Pool School - Metals in the Water and Metal Stains You need to do an OCLT to confirm it is not algae Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT) If it is metals and you are lucky they may vanish back into suspension just...

One thing to remember the prime purpose of the pool store is not to help you, it is to separate you from your money, any help they provide is purely coincidental

TA should be determined by lack of pH drift in YOUR pool, not by targeting a number

Yes, we commonly use household bleach for chlorination, however we have heard that the bleach sold in many tropical areas is much weaker and more expensive than the bleach sold in the U.S. (commonly 8.25% these days, was 6% until a couple of years ago) Cheap bleach even in the U.S. tends to be...

In general we find UV systems to be pointless if you have a well maintained chemical balance, in particular the correct ratio of chlorine to stabilizer Given your location, and lack of availability of chemicals I think a SWG with careful calculated initial CYA stabilizer setup makes the most...