Search results

With current FC levels, I would shut it off until FC drops. Without any alarming the SWG is fine, no worries. It will drop with rain overflow anyway. With a SWG, CYA should be 80 ppm, not 30 ppm. I would turn off the SWG, leave the pucks in the pool via a floater and raise CYA to at least 60...

Turn on the SWG and see if it alarms. The unit will shut down on it's own if it is too high. I don't think it will be an issue at the current level but again, to test, turn on the SWG. But don't leave it on if you are still using the pucks. True. However, I would not really consider PH and TA...

If your PH is not rising, I would leave TA alone. CSI is a little over 0 so scaling could become an issue with the SWG but with pucks, TA & PH will drop anyway fixing that problem. The pucks will raise both FC and CYA. Since you are low on CYA, that is a good thing. But as said above, you are...

Storage temperature and light exposure have the biggest impacts: https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Breakdown_of_Bleach_Over_Time_by_Storage_Temp

Heat will most certainly degrade chlorine faster. https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Breakdown_of_Bleach_Over_Time_by_Storage_Temp However, what you were experience seems a bit extreme although algae and other pathogens certainly will grow faster in warmer water so that may...

How much do you overshoot by? Just use that as a correction factor to what you already calculated. So if you think you are adding 1 ppm but in reality, you are adding 1.2 ppm, reduce the volume you were using by 20%.

My pool has been at a CSI of -1 many times during it's 18 year life span and I don't get very concerned about it because testing has shown that the etching rate at -1 is actually very very low. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/the-csi-is-reliable-for-plaster-based-pools.176082 Plus we...

I agree with the above. I would not add calcium in your location. You would be better off just running at a higher PH until water temps increase.

That is -0.7 correct? I entered the above numbers and got a CSI of -0.49, not -0.61. I wouldn't be too concerned. I had mine less than -0.6 for several weeks at a time without any issues and my plaster is over 18 years old. Short durations of very low CSI will not have a significant impact on...

To me, that is exactly the purpose of CSI. If CSI is in range, you really don't need to be concerned with absolute levels of PH, TA and CH. It basically replaces all three. In reality, you only have direct control over lowering PH with acid. TA just comes along for the ride and CH is difficult...

The reason is to protect the plaster in the pool from excess etching (low CSI) and to prevent scaling (high CSI) even when parameters are with TFP ranges. Keeping parameters within TFP ranges is not enough to protect plaster and SWGs. As an owner of a plaster for over 18 years, I can tell you it...

High TA by itself is not an issue. It only becomes an issue when PH and CH are also high (high CSI). If you target CSI to be around -0.3, there is no need to adjust for PH and TA individually.

Unless I missed something, it looks like acid was added a month ago but CSI was already at -0.56. Why was acid added at that time? Also, lower water temperature, lowers CSI which doesn't help things.

Depends on recent history of chemical additions. If you just added acid, PH is likely bounce back up so you may not need to do anything. If you have not added any acid for a long time AND CSI has been this low for some time, you might want to be more aggressive. -0.81 is not that bad as long...

After you add the CH indicator, do you see small red/purplish dots/flakes? This could be magnesium interference. The small dots will still turn blue at endpoint. However, you can add more indicator for a deeper color which can help.

I think you are fighting yourself. You are concerned about CSI but you keep adding MA which keeps CSI very low. Don't forget that TA also drops when adding MA making CSI even lower. Plus, PH does not rise that quickly after adding MA unless you have a lot of aeration so you have plenty of time...

You really don't need to worry too much unless CSI gets well below -0.6 but even then, a short period of time is not an issue. Also, even if your water temperature goes to 32F, CSI is around -0.8 and I don't see that as a huge problem as I have been there on my own pool on several occasions...

It is far easier to add CH than it is to remove it so I am always a little cautious about adding CH when it isn't absolutely necessary. Especially for a curing plaster pool. As the temperature drops, CSI will also drop, this is true. However, the OP is currently adding MA to keep PH down and as...

The CSI is currently well above -0.6 and since CH will rise in the coming weeks as the plaster cures, I think raising it at this point risks over shooting. I would hold off and monitor CSI over the coming weeks. Also as OnBalance has shown, leaching of Calcium is a very slow process even at CSI...

As long as CSI is just slightly negative, I don't think you have anything to worry about. Also, because you have a new plaster pool, CH will rise in the next few months so I would not do anything right now.

I order almost exclusively from Amazon and have never had any issues.

https://www.amazon.com/TAYLOR-TECHNOLOGIES-K-2006-CHLORINE-FAS-DPD/dp/B004BGF7TI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3KP6YCSQ6E2PH&keywords=Taylor+test+kit+pool+FAS+DPD&qid=1692302949&sprefix=taylor+test+kit+pool+fas+dpd%2Caps%2C139&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840 If you just...

Most likely reason CL drops is because of algae. Have you tried a . But you really have not given us much to go on. We need a full set of test results (not "everything is ok"). Also, please read these forum requirements...

Baking Soda as sodium and MA has chloride so yes, that will increase salt level but not by that much unless you are using a lot of these chemicals. You aren't using MA and BS as the same time correct? That would be counter acting.

If/when they replaced the old pump, they forgot to reconnect the bond wire, that could explain why the shock has recently occured. A well bonded pool can still be safe even when there is NEV present as it should keep all the items near the pool at the same potential.

Do you live in a rural or semi-rural area? If the shock continues even after turning off all the equipment breakers, it could be neutral to earth voltage (NEV). It is more common in rural areas.

The rain could be acidic and the fill water can also be basic which it usually is. Combined, could mean that PH does not rise as quickly.

Iron stains become worse at high FC levels. You might want to read through this: https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/stains-in-your-pool/ https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ascorbic_Acid_Treatment

All test kits expire at some point. You just never know when. I don't normally suggest this but take a water sample to a pool store and see what they say. Can you post a picture of the cell serial #? Also, did you try the T-15 mode to see what the salt level reads?

It is very unusual for a SWG to report higher salt levels than a Taylor test kit. So either you have a bad test kit or the cell you have is really a T-15 and not a T-9. Perhaps mislabeled. If you change the cell type to T-15 what does the SWG report as the salt level? Should be closer to what...