Search results

Low TA will result in quick pH swings. Try keeping the TA at 60 or higher while you bring down the pH. (Add baking soda to raise TA, wait an hour, add muriatic acid to lower pH which of course will lower TA, too.) Does the TA appear to be dropping without you adding acid? Or do the acid...

With the pump running, it won't stay cold enough for long enough to damage anything. The main risk is if you lose electricity and the pump stops. Will it be windy at your equipment pad? You could also throw a tarp over the above-ground pipes and equipment for added protection.

The chlorine continues to keep the water sanitary which is the main reason I maintain it during the winter. As noted, algae growth slows dramatically, and isn't as much of an issue. But chlorine consumption also drops dramatically, so it's easy to maintain. Note that there is no reason to bring...

Extra powder for the FAS-DPD chlorine test will not change the results at all. Too much powder is not a problem; not enough powder can be, especially when your FC is high. Note that the instruction booklet that comes with the K2006 has more detailed information about the tests and about...

Re: New to the forum & a 1yr. old salt pool, need a little h You're ok. Your CSI is negative. A -0.41 is greater than -0.6. It is not suggestive of problems for your pool. It's easiest to concentrate on keeping your other numbers in range which lets you simplify and ignore CSI. With the other...

Re: New to the forum & a 1yr. old salt pool, need a little h Welcome! You have a beautiful pool. Just following on to what jblizzle posted, pool water with FC at SLAM (shock) level based on your CYA is safe for your pool and equipment. FC level below SLAM (shock) level is safe to swim in. So...

Your CYA is fine. You may want to raise it closer to 50 if your pool gets full sun at those high temperatures, but don't touch it until the SLAM is complete. It will be easier to SLAM at its present level.

Re: First SLAM You can remove the light without draining. You're going to have to get wet to do it. You don't have to actually get in the pool if you can reach it from the deck, though. There should be 1-4 screws in the underwater ring around the light that you'll need to remove. Most lights...

The TF-100 has 2 different tests for chlorine. One is the OTO test which uses drops to turn the water different shades of yellow to determine chlorine level. The other is the FAS-DPD test where you use a powder to turn the water pink, and then you count drops to determine the chlorine level...

Yep, ignore the phosphate level. Most folks here never test for it. Running your SWG (or adding bleach for those of us who don't choose to run an SWG) to keep the FC level where it needs to be based on CYA is the best and cheapest way to prevent algae. Follow the guidelines for an SWG pool, and...

You definitely want to get some chlorine in there. Since you don't know the CYA level, adding liquid chlorine (bleach) is the better way to go for now. Did you measure the pH?

It is generally recommended to ignore the phosphate level. It doesn't matter how much "algae food" is in the water if the chlorine level is kept high enough to prevent algae from living in it. Is there another effect that you're concerned about from the presence of phosphates?

I wouldn't do anything about the pH of 7.8 unless you have an SWG running or a water feature like a bubbler, fountain, or some sort of waterfall. Those all cause the pH to drift up. But if you have one (or more) of those, or if you think it might actually be higher than 7.8, you could nudge it...

You can adjust one, and 30 minutes later adjust the other. I'd start with chlorine. What are your full test results, and what are you targeting for FC and pH?

It is possible that he "shocked" with Calcium Hypochlorite and didn't realize that's what it was. If not, it must have built up from evaporation and refill like chem geek said. The CH in the fill water isn't particularly high, but it will build up if there is a lot of refilling due to...

Welcome! This CYA test has a logarithmic scale, not linear, so it is hard to eyeball readings around and over 100. I recommend you re-do the test using the 1:1 dilution of pool water and tap water, then double the result as Jeetyet suggested. Your CYA level may very well be around 100; the way...

How did you add the sodium carbonate? Typically, you can assume it is mixed in the pool after an hour with the pump running, and re-test. The recommended way to add it is to pre-dissolve it in a bucket of water, and then pour slowly in front of the stream of water coming into the pool through...

A few thoughts: It may be expensive, but it is certainly not impossible to get Taylor chemicals and tests in Australia. Start here: shipping-tf-100-test-kit-to-australia-t52581.html#p432954[/*:m:28cyyczp] How much chemical to add to change the pH of your specific pool water depends on several...

CH will not go down from evaporation. The water evaporates; the CH stays. To reduce CH, you must remove water - drain, splash-out, overflow from rain. As said above, 425 is manageable. You'll have to keep your pH and TA on the lower side of the range. Your CYA and continued puck usage is more...

That is fast. You must be going through a lot of acid. Try lowering to around 7.5. Typically it rises much faster from 7.2 to 7.5 than from 7.5 to 7.8. You'll be adding acid more often, but overall it should require less, and therefore less cost. Hopefully somebody smarter than me can chime in...

How fast does pH rise? How high do you let it go before lowering it, and how far down do you drive it before letting it drift up again? Ripples will cause some aeration, but it doesn't sound like you have much going on in the grand scheme of things...how long does your pump run each day?

Maintaining a lower TA will help to slow down the rise in pH. Since your pH is going up, try leaving your TA around 70 ppm. You can raise your TA with very little effect on pH by adding baking soda. You are correct that you will lower both each time you treat pH with acid. Do you have any ideas...

Are you using the All Clear brand with Taylor instructions/color match vial? Or are you using All Clear brand with All Clear instructions / color match vial?

I'm not sure how broad of an answer you're looking for when you say "chlorine release system". There is the option of installing a salt water generator (SWG) system (automatic-chlorinators-swg-liquidator-etc-f21.html), or a chlorine injection system...

There are extended test kit directions available. Here is the post that describes the TA test: extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html#p206395. As Dave stated, you'll get pink, red, or yellow with a TA of 0 and a low pH (which you also have).

Yes, in the morning you test to make sure you lost less than 1 ppm of FC, and you test for CC <0.5 ppm. If you pass, your FC will be at or near shock level. The sun will bring it down during the day. As soon as it dips below shock level for your CYA, it is safe to swim. After that, just let the...

The chlorinator has the exact same downside as a puck floater: the pucks add CYA. I see from your other thread that you're already acquainted with the drain and refill process for lowering CYA if it gets too high. You can see how much chlorine and CYA the pucks will add by using the "Effects of...

Slamming will result in a clear pool. Just follow the directions, and you'll get it all cleaned up.

You won't be able to slam properly without an accurate way to test high FC levels. That shouldn't mean you stop adding chlorine, though. Add at least your typical daily amount so that you don't lose all progress. I'm sure somebody smarter than me will chime in if there's a different recommended...

You can keep TA on the lower side since your CH is high. As long as your pH is not bouncing around a lot, a TA of 70 is fine. Since you are continuing to drain and refill to manage your CYA level, it's worth testing your fill water for CH, too. Acid will reduce both pH and TA. Aerating raises...