Search results

I have acquired my TF-100 test kit. Results: FC: 19 CC: 0 TC: 19 PH: 7.2-7.5 (I am shade deficient in Red/Orange/Yellow - Wife had to read this one from TF-100) My normal drop test says 7.3 CH: 575 CYA: 100 TA: 110

The TA of 62 is an avg of the three tests I have been using. The phosphate kit I have: Taylor Phosphate Test Kit K-1106

Ordered the Circupool RJ60+. I put 8 bags of Blue Mortons Water Softener salt in. Todays tests: pH: 7.7 Alk: 62 FAC: 18 (turned on my erosion feeder to clean it out from the remaining puck junk - mistake) TAC: 18 Po: 300 (I know it doesnt matter, but the CircuPool Manual says should be 0, so...

I have 300ppm in the pool, the pool is fresh fill as of november with new plaster, it hasn't had much byproduct salts as it was filled with RO water (previous owner did all that). I did order the Taylor K-1766 Salt Test and the TF-100 Salt Test I had a buddy test the salt content before...

Looks like I will throw out the Clorox salt. I don't know why I didn't look it up here first, figured I used Clorox Bleach - why not their salt. should have went with the I use Mortons to eat, why not the pool approach.

Unfortunately I can't cancel the 6 bags already ordered, but can change the remaining ~500Lbs needed of salt. Is there any fear of using the 6 bags if added slowly and my surface is solid white? My results are an avg of 3 drop kits (one from Home Depot, one from wal-mart, and my Leslies...

I have been fighting FC/TC for weeks and finally cracked it. I am now going to begin to convert to SWG. I have ordered the first half bags of salt, they will be here today. Aside from PH changes, is there any swing in chems I should expect from adding salt? (Clorox 99+% Pool Salt)...