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I still have the non-GFCI CB installed, and it hasn't tripped - so it's inconclusive at the moment if the ignitor was causing the GFCI trip or not - I'll have to swap back to see if it trips. Right now I'm at a better spot than I was last week - so thank you for that. (y)

Hey Allen - removed the bottom bolt. No water came out, but the end of the bolt does have corrosion on the tip - not sure if this is normal for a 5 year old heater or not. That being said, I slowly started replacing things. I removed the Stack Flu sensor because it was easy to get at. It...

It's a Craftsmans 82141 that I've had for years. I can't find anything that says "True RMS", so I'm assuming it is not a True RMS meter. It's like this one...

Thanks AJW - yes, I've read the article - multiple times in fact. What I cannot understand from the article is what actually detects the flame? I understand that the Fenwal box is the microprocessor, but since it's detecting 0 VDC across the FC+ and FC- pins., according to the article it leads...

So I got a brand new replacement Fenwal box - swapped it out, and I'm at the same spot. Heater fires for a second or two, and then turns off. Does this 3x, and then the Fenwal box reports "Ignition lockout". I have already done the grounding suggestion done in...

Yes, I just observed this. I think before I was waiting until it said "Service Heater", and then looking into the Fenwal box - at that point the diagnostic Fenwal LED has gone out. If you watch the ignition real time, after the 3rd time lighting, the diagnostic LED inside the Fenwal box...

So I swapped out the GFCI breaker for a non-GFCI. I think that there's a flame sensing issue, because the blower starts up, the heater lights, and then after about 1-2 seconds, ignition goes out, but the blower continues to run. This process of lighting / going out happens 3x, and then the...

So the thermal regulator seems to have helped with the cycling. What's odd is that the old thermal regulator that I pulled seemed to function as well when running it under hot tap water. There was a small foreign piece of plastic on the end of the thermal regulator (round, white, about the...

So the Thermal Regulator is on it's way - should be here tomorrow. In the mean time, I did have a chance to witness it trip the breaker this afternoon. Here's what happened: 1.) I turned up the heat on the IntelliCenter while standing by the heater - the heater had been off since Wednesday...

Thanks! Thermal regulator on it's way - I'll report back.

Took the VS to 2800, which is about 63 GPM according to the FloVis - the burner is still cycling every 30 seconds. When I initially start the heater, it runs longer (like maybe 90 seconds - 2 minutes), and then all subsequent cycles are 30 seconds on, 30 seconds off.

Thanks Allen - fine with separating the two. I'll replace the breaker and see what happens. As for the heating issue, the "Service Heater" light has not been on since yesterday morning just after I reset the tripped breaker. Right now it's cycling where the burner fires for 30 seconds (and...

I can swap the breaker for the heater. The only problem that I have is that the tripping is sporadic so it'll be tough to understand if the issue actually happened - who knows, it could even be a weak breaker. One other observation that may trigger some thoughts: So yesterday when I started...

IntelliChem, SWG transformer, and the heater are all on a 15A double throw GFCI breaker @ 240V. The breaker will not trip for weeks if the heater isn't running. If the heater is running then it'll trip every so often.

I probably should have described it a little more elaborately. From what I can tell, there's two different scenarios that happen: 1.) The heater calls for heat, doesn't hit whatever issue that is causing the service heater light to come on (or the breaker to trip), and the heater would run...

Hi- I've got a 250K MasterTemp heater that has been tripping the breaker this pool season. The "Service Heater" light is on, but none of the diagnostic LEDs on the back of the panel light up, and to be honest, who knows if the the two issues are even related. I read through the MasterTemp...

So I had a slow leak after opening this year, and I finally narrowed it down to a skimmer. It looks like it's around the bottom edge - it's actually hard to tell if it continues even further (or where it stops) because it's right at the seam. What's the best way to fix this (it's in concrete...

I ordered o-rings to test to see if that helps. One other thing that I'll note is that when the water starts dropping, I get lots of air trapped in the filter. If I crack the relief valve and let out the air, the pump basket will fill to the top. Not sure if that tells of a different problem...

One more question on this - how tight should the threaded portion that goes into the pump be? Should I use a channel lock pliers (I've seen a few videos showing this), or should this just be hand tight (and then further tightened when you hand-tighten the union nut which basically goes the...

Looks like I found them for anyone else that runs into this thread:

From what I can see, they're Praher 906 series Hi-Heat unions in case that helps someone to identify the o-rings that I need. Plumbing is all 2". It looks like the complete union is Praher part number 200-996, but I can't find anything that tells me the replacement o-rings. Here's to hoping...

Thanks for the reply - I kind of figured that's where I'd have to start. Are the o-rings a standard size where I can order a replacement online, or am I stuck going to a hardware store and rummaging through their o-rings to try to find one that matches up?

Alright TFP folks - I need some assistance. I decided that I should re-plumb the valves that the PB used when installing our pool, and put in Jandy (Pentair-branded) Neverlube valves so I could do a little bit of automation. Really the intention is to choke down the main drain a little when...

I wouldn't think that the crack on the return eyeball would lead to water loss, unless the plumbing behind the eyeball is also cracked. The eyeball has return water coming in behind it with pressure pushing outwards towards the pool water. If water was leaking from the return pipe through the...

Just so I understand - is this to clean it up, or to rough up the surface, or both?

Is the A+B Putty better than some of the ones that look like they're two tubes of liquid that you inject with a syringe?

Am I crazy to try to fix this? The concrete decking is only 2 years old, so I'd rather not jackhammer it out to replace the skimmer, although at some point I'd assume that's the more permanent fix...

Here's the other skimmer that i think is the one that's actually leaking some. Do I have to get the cracked cleaned out before I can patch, and how about the water? Does that need to be removed before patching?

Have a small crack in the skimmer that has grown - this has actually happened on two skimmers. I'm thinking that I'm getting some water loss, although it's not huge...What's the best way to go about repairing this? Do i need to dump some water, or can I do it with water in it? Also, there's...

So if it's tripped, the automation panel is basically saying something like "when tripped, start timer", and then if the timer reaches > 20 seconds, throw an alert, or something to that effect? Anyone have a picture of one of these things installed in the skimmer throat?