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Some of the field experts here may know off the top of their head. For me, I'd just take the cover off that motor "hump" and take a pic of it to be sure and shop online. Might as well remove the rear motor cover and do the same for that one just in case. Each one should be around $15 bucks or...

Welcome to TFP! :wave: I suspect they mean 20 Baume Muriatic solution (approximately 31.5%). Word of caution, be sure the grids are absolutely clean (consider TSP deep cleaning) before doing an acid bath. Otherwise you risk ruining the grid fabric. See the posts below if you haven't...

Water should not leak out of the MPV when on RECIRC, so I would lift off that top handle assy and inspect the spider gasket and diverter key way assembly. Perhaps you'll something obvious. If not, apply some pool silicone lube to any rubber gaskets, reassemble everything, and see if the...

I wonder if the owners have been turning the handle in both direction? Maybe the gasket got a little pinched or something.

No. In RECIRC that water should literally go in & out of the MPV without entering the filter body (when attached) or going out to waste. How old is this valve? Have you ever opened it up to inspect?

Well, this is one of those scenarios where you do your best to limp along season after season to avoid digging and the costly $$$$. I get it. Sure, epoxy is handy and can save the day. At some point however, you just have to say "that's it", and do the swap. You're about there. You can try...

Well, at least some temporary progress. :goodjob: Let's see if @1poolman1 can clarify for us if the spider gasket is an option on this model worth trying to salvage, or if it's best to just replace the entire MPV.

Some are one unit. Can you post a pic of the MPV model number ID label info?

Welcome to TFP! :wave: The silicone lube is for the rubber seals/gaskets only. NOT the shaft seal. You don't want to get anything on the ceramic shaft seal. If you do (i.e. finger oil), be sure to wipe the ceramic with some rubbing alcohol. Hope that helps.

If you confirm the spider gasket looks good, I would consider replacing the tension spring on that stem as well. It may not be applying enough pressure for the key way diverter to keep everything sealed in each setting.

Unfortunately we see that a lot. Do you know how to turn off the system? If so, I would do that now. Then open that lid to remove any leaves and check the O-ring. You will always need to have pool silicone lube handy, so if you don't have any, get some now. FYI - never use petroleum jelly...

Welcome to TFP! :wave: Since this is a new pump, do you know if anyoone applied pool silicone lube to the lid O-ring? That would be my first place to check. After that, visit the link below for more ideas. Let us know if the problem persists. Have a good day...

Everything you are describing is indicative of excessive organics building up. Can you post a full set of water test results?

Yes. After you block the pool wall ports to prevent water from flowing out, you should be able to remove the two flex hose connections at the bottom of that pipe from the skimmer. Once those two flex hose connections are disconnected, it looks like you should be able to unscrew the entire...

Yes. This was my experience. :brickwall: https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/plumbing-assessment-repairs.280762/

For some, very effective. Especially those who haven't opened the filter in a long time, or those whose pump isn't strong enough to really push through the sand (upwards) during backwash. It's not a cure-all for every owner, but worth a try if they suspect compaction, channeling, etc. As long...

Emptying to inspect may be your best course of action for now. It's possible one of the laterals got damaged during the winter freeze & thaw period. Welcome to another TFP season! :wave:

I don't think the waste line has anything to do with it. I'd be more concerned with the suction side. The fact that you can't keep water in the pump pot when filling it tells me there is an open air leak somewhere. That's my thought anyway. I'm wondering if that 3-way valve before the pump...

Hummm. :scratch: I've not seen that type before. What about you @Mdragger88?

It would be helpful to hear the noise. Any chance you could post a video of it on YouTube then post that link here for us to listen? We can get some unusual noises from the wet end (pump pot area), but typically the loud squealing or scratching noises are from the motor. Maybe post a pic or...

Actually, the pump pot should hold water when it's off if the system is "air tight". This also helps it to prime quickly on the next start up. Check all connections closely for a potential air leak. Perhaps post some pics of your equipment pad as well so we can see everything.

Can you look for another label on the MPV itself? Any other ID markings? Something like "SPxxxxxxxx"

I'll keep looking, but this may be one of those scenarios where the entire MPV may be better to be replaced. Depends on your MPV model. Some MPVs require the entire key & stem assembly to be replaced. The gasket is affixed to it already (I think). In some cases it's easier and cost efficient...

Less than one year leaking already? :scratch: We can dig around for a replacement part number, but curious .... have you reached out to Hayward yet? A spider gasket should last several years easy. Also, are you careful to shut the pump off before changing settings, and do you typically...

The one linked below looks about right, but I'd feel better letting @JamesW confirm. Stand-by ...

FYI - I re-opened the old thread since the pics can be helpful and combined the two threads. :goodjob:

I'm going to re-open this thread as the pics are important to describing your current skimmer issue.

You are referring to the ball valve under the skimmer correct?

Between the pump and filter.

As for the pump, a little air is okay. You can check the pump lid o-ring to ensure it's still in good shape and has a good coating of pool silicone lube.