Search results

Also, check your incoming feed with a voltmeter. If one hot leg shorted to ground, it would blow a fuse upstream on that one leg and you would get 110V across your 220V circuit and cause exactly what you are seeing.

I learned the best thing is to go hands off for a while and give the pool time to find its own 'natural' level of pH and TA. I had wasted a lot of time, chemicals and energy trying for perfect levels of both. When I left it alone, it settled down at 7.8 and 50, and I hardly ever have to touch...

See if it keeps time if you remove all the dogs. If it does, you may have put the one of the dogs on slightly crooked and it was getting hung up. Make sure the dog is all the way on to the disk--the rim should touch the bottom of the U formed by the dog.

I can think of three things: -use a second clamp (we always had two on our black poly) -make sure that elbow has correct black poly nipple and is not cracked -cut hose back 2 or 3 in. and redo. End of elbow should look like this:

Looks like it might be a GFCI breaker. If so, it's probably not tripping due to overcurrent, but some stray leakage. Those breakers are also prone to fail and trip just because they want to. Surges and lightning seem to kill them easily. My 2004 pool has normal breakers and that is fine with me...

I have had below water-level pumps for over 50 years and I NEVER close my intake valves when I clean the basket. I just slap the basket against a pipe to get the big stuff and then push the basket into the water flowing out of the pump, working it up and down rapidly. That pretty much cleans out...

Re: Pressure testing lines: leak in the 1.5" skimmer line. Repair or replace w/ 2" PV Yes, it's black poly--clear from the pictures. We replaced our 1946 galvanized with black poly in the early 1960s and ran it with no problems on the pipe until we tore up the pool in 2003. The barbed fittings...

I did this on my 1.0hp (full-rated) Whisperflo. You can keep your existing timer and just add a hi-lo (SPDT) switch. I put it on the side of the timer box and ran one new conductor from the switch to the motor. I only run it on high to vacuum or backwash so I switch it manually. I found the...

Not to be ignored is the noise factor. I converted my 1hp (full-rated) WhisperFlo to 2-speed three years ago. It's only 15 feet from the pool behind a wood fence. It was quiet before, but now it's inaudible. I value my rural silence and I would get the 2-speed just for that.

Anthony & Sylvan has for years built their pools with reversible main drains. The suggested use is to improve warming. I run it in reverse all the time unless the pool is too hot. (No risk this summer.) Allows max circulation and max skimming force at same time. A&S puts all the returns on the...

As Jason said, old pump was set to 230V. DO NOT connect it the way you have it. Can you find the breaker box where the feed wires come from? If there is a breaker on both wires, it's 230V and you need to change the new pump wiring. If the black goes to a breaker, and white goes to a copper bus...

I would never buy a T-series motor for the same reason I never bought a TV with the VCR built-in. Whenever one of two components breaks, you lose both and have to send both to be repaired. If one is shot, you have to replace both. With a separate timer, you can still operate your filter manually...

This is just my personal opinion but I would think twice about those on-board timer motors. I worry about increasing the likelihood that I am without circulation due to a timer failure. With a separate timer, you can at least by-pass it and control your pump manually from the breaker. If the...

Kinda hard to understand with all the colors. I just did my own WhisperFlo 2-speed and I can tell you this: the only wire from outside that goes to the switch is one hot lead to the center of the switch. The other hot lead goes to Terminal 1. The yellow and white from the switch should go to 2...

It looks like you can get what you need here: http://www.infloorpoolparts.com/new-caretaker-5-port-union-assembly-2inch.html If not that one, one of the others listed. Union threads are not standard. A Hayward nut half won't normally go on somebody else's threaded half, etc.

Anthony-Sylvan puts them on all their pools. It's certainly not for draining in my case, as I have a multi-port and a waste line, which works ten times as well. A/S used it for the initial pressure test, and really had little else to say about it. I find it handy as I use my large air compressor...

I have a similar pool with a 2-speed pump. On low, I run with the main drain throttled down to 50% to get better skimming action while still fighting stratification and improving overall circulation. Even on high and 100% from the mains, they won't suck from the floor around them. That's normal.

I put a 2speed on my WhisperFlo. The difference is dramatic. On low, I have to touch it to tell if it's running. On high, I can definitely hear it as soon as I get around the barrier fence. I'd recheck your wiring.

I put the B2982 on my WhisperFlo last year. I have a larger pool and a larger DE filter and it does everything perfectly. The power savings are dramatic. I should have done it sooner.

Last year, my 2004 WhisperFlo also had gotten quite noisy. I just decided it was a good time to go to a 2-speed motor and now it is REALLY quiet. I wish I had done it sooner. I did the swap myself and it took less than an hour. I had no idea how much longer mine would last. I've gone through...

That 6W is the consumption of the timer/clock function itself. That puppy will control up to 3HP on each of three circuits. It is plenty big. Per the manual: http://www.intermatic.com/~/media/Intermatic/Documentation/Pool%20and%20Spa/Electronic%20Controls/P1000ME%20Series/P1353ME.ashx I doubt...

As far as I have seen, all modern hoses leak at the ends (swivel or not). So it's not really a problem with the hose--it's just the nature of the beast. My current skimmer has a cup that accepts the hose cuff loosely and then suction holds it in place just fine. My older 1960's vintage skimmer...

Is the wet end of your current pump dead? You can get a lot of savings by just upgrading your motor to a high-efficiency 2-speed and spend a lot less money. I upgraded my WhisperFlo this way and the savings were dramatic.

I've been vacuuming without a plate for 50 years. If the skimmer hole won't marry the hose, it's not hard to find an adapter that will.

As far as the floating hoses for manual vacuuming, my experience is: they ALL leak. If it still gets the job done, don't worry about it. I am one of the few that still sticks to manual vacuuming--I don't own a cleaner.

Save the settings keys from the old one to use on the new one. Then you can split your run times.

I have had good success SuperGlue'ing the ends of broken O-rings together to keep things running while I source a replacement.

Why would I need to do a mid-season cleaning? My pressure doesn't go up by more than 2.5 psi between open in May and close in September and the pool is crystal clear all season, thanks to BBB. Been that way for several years now. I just give it a good cleaning every fall close.

Re: pump starts for a few seconds and automatically turns of I assume you know this, but that timer is completely bypassed. Pump is powered permanently regardless of timer or manual switch operation. The dial will go around, though.

Overheating and high current draw won't pop your outlet GFCI, you will pop your branch circuit breaker. GFCI's pop when there is a leakage to ground--although nearby lightning can freak them out, I have found. If cap has been changed, humming while stopped suggests a broken start/run switch...