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Can you confirm what all the return lines are for? The smaller 1/4" lines, are those for water features? Then the two larger 2" lines, return jets, or also spa perhaps? Maybe a larger water feature?

Welcome! :wave: You're going on year 5 with that cell. It's possible it's reached the end of its life cycle. I'm not familiar with that unit though, so perhaps there's another reset trick others might now. I'm assuming you've already tried to power it off for a while?

Welcome to TFP! :wave: Sounds like you have algae. I can tell you the pool store will be absolutely no help and will only try to sell you snake oils that won't correct the problem. Don't trust their testing as it isn't much better. Step #1 is to have a good test kit at home. We recommend...

So you have options. For simplicity's sake, you might consider the Circupool series (i.e. RJ-30, 45, 60) which are fairly user-friendly DIY SWGs. They have others as well. I have the RJ-45 and use it with my 115V outlet. It's on a separate outlet from my pump, so you want to ensure the SWG...

Perhaps its in its rest cycle. Cells typically work for x-amount of minutes on, then rest for x-amount of minutes depending on the settings. Give it some time to see if the run cycle starts again. For some SWGs, if you power it off then back on it goes right into a new run cycle. Welcome to...

I'm a little curious about the flow rate itself. Not my area of expertise, for that I would call on the assistance of @mas985. But I wonder if the issue is not so much the rpm setting of the pump itself, but rather the actual flow rate measured? Sure, the cell seems to be signaling low flow...

Ha ha. That's interesting. Now I have to go out and see what mine says. :)

I would reach out to Discount Salt Pools. They may send you a new line/switch no questions asked since that's kind of an easy thing. Do that before any DIY splicing. :)

I took my old tab feeder completely out and inserted the SWG in its place. If it's still too tight, you may need to get a little creative, but it's doable for sure. You may not need the backflow preventer either with the tabs gone. Let's see what other suggestions people have though.

Hello Joe and welcome to TFP! :wave: If you can't find anything, I would reach out to either Discount Salt Pools or Inyopools. They both have a deep catalog of info and resources that I suspect can help you with that question. Let us know how it goes. Good luck!

Good morning and welcome to TFP! :wave: Since no one has replied yet, I wanted to check-in to see if you ever made a decision on a replacement SWG for your pool?

Good morning! :wave: Did you ever manage to crack the code on the power source troubleshooting? Still need help?

Do you see my signature on each post? If not, you may be using a portable device, so turn it sideways. There's a link to the TF-100. There you can find the TF-Pro Salt which would be my recommendation. You can also shop online for a Taylor K-2006C kit, but you'll also need to add the Taylor...

The cell numbers you posted (amps, etc) look okay. Do not trust the SWG/cell module salt readings. You should always test salt with a Taylor K-1766 test kit. Much more reliable. Speaking of testing, please post a full set of water test results. If your water has excessive organics, the SWG...

For now, about 1/2 gallon per day. That could change though depending on the additional info provided.

A few things to help get this troubleshooting started: 1 - How are you testing your water? We need to see a full set of water test results from a TF-100/TF-Pro or Taylor K-2006C test kit. The water chemistry is an extremely important factor for SWGs. 2 - How old is your SWG? 3 - Which Hayward...

Welcome to TFP! :wave: Have you confirmed your true salt level with a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit? How old is your pump/filter/SWG combo?

I suspect if it was something you felt strongly about monitoring you would have to install a pressure gauge in your return line. T-fitting with 1/4" to accommodate the gauge. I've seen some other members do it for various reasons.

Or take several tablets, place in a thin sock or nylon, crush to make a powder, moisten a bit, and rub on the area. The Vitamin C "should" lift the rust stain.

Rub the area with a Vitamin C tablet.

That would be my assumption as well. Let's see if any fellow Aquapure members reply to compare notes with you.

Maybe @JamesW or @Newdude?

Understood. Maybe post some pics of your jumper mod if you can as well. Good luck.

@Jimrahbe can you ID that part/area?

"99", I see your post has been sitting with no replies. Did you ever get your answer?

As long as you have chlorine being produced, sometimes it's best to just walk away.

FWIW, I can't see into my cell very well after some 4 seasons. Not something I purposefully analyzed when I first got it, but the clear plastic seems hazy now and difficult to see through. Other than water rushing through when I first crank it up, I don't see much. I wonder if the last...

Good question. Many builders seem to frown on it for some reason, using decking materials or corrosion as an excuse, but I don't think they really grasp the chemistry. Regardless, an SWG is the way to go. I switched a few years ago and am very pleased. You will be too. Welcome to TFP! :wave:

PCB (Printed Circuit Board) adapter is used to linked the two or more devices for a purpose. Below is another thread about the same subject. UPDATE! RJ60+ showing 'CELL CONNECTION' message

A bit early to tell. Try rubbing a chlorine tablet on the stain (organic). If that doesn't work, try Vitamin C tablets (iron). After that, if you have some dry acid laying around (i.e. pH Down) you can try that as well (copper).