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  1. O

    Is my diluted dichlor still a viable source of CYA?

    A crack in the lid of my half-full dichlor bucket allowed rainwater to seep in all winter. Now the bucket is full of yellow liquid and large chunks of white semi-floating material. It looks like the dichlor granules have gotten stuck together and some (or all?) of the chlorine content has...
  2. O

    Does clarifier reduce or eliminate CYA?

    This year I put my new homemade sand filter into service. It's a 55-gallon plastic drum/barrel with the top cut off, and it sits up on a platform so the barrel bottom and pool top are at the same level. A PVC manifold in the bottom of the barrel is connected to a 2-inch outflow port through...
  3. O

    TA 50 and pH 7.2, both have been stable for more than a week

    After my initial fill I gradually lowered my TA to 50. I was going for 60 but overshot a little bit. Then I adjusted my pH to 7.6, and after checking pH again a few hours later -- to confirm that it was still 7.6 -- I immediately added 46 ounces of boric acid to reach a calculated 50 ppm of...
  4. O

    My water source is TA 240 ppm, should I adjust it before adding borates?

    Last year when I first filled my pool, I brought my TA down from 240 to 80 ppm so I could add 50 ppm borates to help stabilize my TA and pH for the entire season. This 80 ppm TA level was recommended by someone as being a good level to start with when adding borates, so I followed that person's...
  5. O

    TA / pH chart to quickly choose the correct adjustment

    I think I can use some help here. I've begun to create a chart that can quickly show me what action to take when making pool chemistry adjustments, but I have three blanks. Can you fill them in for me? pH high and TA high: add muriatic acid pH high and TA good: pH high and TA low: pH...
  6. O

    Is there really Combined Chlorine in my pool all the time?

    I bought the Taylor FAS-DPD Chlorine Test kit (K-1515-A) because I had all the other tests I need. I've been using it with 10 ml pool water samples so I am getting readings of 0.5 precision. The FC portion of these tests seem reasonable and are likely correct every time, but I'm not sure about...
  7. O

    Swimming after adding dichlor at shock levels -- is it bad?

    Here's my scenario. I have a very small above ground pool that currently has a CYA of about 20 ppm or maybe a little higher. If I had any straight cyanuric acid I would use it instead of dichlor to raise my CYA without increasing the chlorine level, but I'm using the dichlor for this purpose...
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    Questions about OTO chlorine testing and total / active / free chlorine ...

    I have a few unrelated questions that all deal with chlorine: 1- To get a more accurate total chlorine reading via an OTO test, can I dilute my test water with distilled water? For example, if I dilute it at a 1:5 ratio and the diluted sample shows 2.0 ppm in my test, my total chlorine level...
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    How to make my own test reagent?

    I have a HDX (Home Depot) branded 5-way test kit -- the same kit that's manufactured and sold by Poolmaster. I use far more #3 reagent than the others so my #3 bottle is running low yet all the others are still nearly full. The front side of the label says "#3 - Count Drops - For Acid Demand...
  10. O

    Boric Acid is 20 cents per ounce at Dollar Tree

    Using Boric Acid means no pH adjustments so it may cost less than Borax + Muriatic Acid. Duda Diesel sells 5+ pounds of Boric Acid for less than 18 cents per ounce (not including shipping) ... but if you need less and you're near a Dollar Tree store you can get it in 5 ounce bottles for $1.00...
  11. O

    Balancing pH and TA in a small Intex pool

    Why would TA fail to go down after adding a cup of Muriatic Acid to a tiny 1200 gallon pool? My TA was 200 ppm when I added the acid yesterday afternoon, but this morning TA is still 200 ppm. My pH dropped a lot because of the acid addition, so why didn't the TA drop along with it? Background...