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pH will rise faster from 6.9 to 7.2 than it will from 7.2 to 7.5 or 7.5 to 7.8 etc. Also note, that TA is not a set ideal number. Depending on other factors some may find a sweet spot with TA vs pH at 100, some might find it at 40. The 60-80 is just an average place where it usually falls in...

If it were me, I would treat it as follows. These are not exact measurements obviously, but should get you in the ballpark. Clear ~ 0 CYA Cloudy ~ 10 CYA Barely see the dot ~ 20 CYA Using this I would first add enough CYA to bring it to 30. Do not worry about it for the rest of the SLAM...

When you say it is lower, is it clear? Slightly cloudy? Barely see the dot?

So yes. In order to SLAM a pool, it is recommended to turn off the SWG and treat it like it was a normal bleach pool until after the SLAM is complete. Basically with a SWG you add about 3000ppm of salt into the pool. The SWG then converts this salt to chlorine. When the chlorine breaks down...

Ok now you need to retest your CYA (once you get your reagents). Bring it up to 30. I can bet it is lower than this at this point. This will also change your shock FC. Stay with what you have right now though.

So you added 192oz of bleach and tested shortly after and your FC was only 0.4? Do this, add enough bleach to theoretically bring your pool up to 10ppm. Test in 30 minutes. Report your results.

The Army in general does tend to thicken your skin a little! Cav is a whole other story...! It takes quite a lot of toning down on my part to not get in trouble here on the other hand. I tend to be overly straight forward and often too sarcastic.

Dot Matrix Printers FTW! You will be safe adding a gallon of bleach a day until your test kit arrives. It is always best to keep some FC in the pool. A half gallon to a gallon is about what your pool should be losing a day under normal circumstances.

I misunderstood. I thought you were going to ride it our until after your company, then drain to around 90 CYA. I was just saying you should lower to at least 80 after your company. If that is what you meant, I apologize! No offense taken btw.

A SWG will cause your pH to rise. Just having a large filter will as well because of the amount it is able to aerate such a small pool. MA is the solution though, just as in a larger pool.

If you truly do not want to have to drian and refill often (or ever), then I say treat it as a larger pool. Go ahead and get the k-2006, or even the TF-100. Use the SWG and pump you have. You may find it harder to dial in. If in one hour it makes too much chlorine, then get an external timer...

I am not a calcium expert by any means. The CSI on the pool actually is not that bad though. Anything above 8.0 throws it into the too high realm.

When it says to have another person look at it, that means you should pour the solution back into the mixing bottle and have another person run the test. Not just look at your results. I like to have my 8 year old daughter do it. Makes her feel like a chemist, and eyesight deteriorates with...

I must have missed that part. Still, the initial pH would be possible, but the pH should be shooting up after a few days with that high TA correct?

First to start, lets figure out that CYA level. Try to use this method of testing. CYA Dilution Method, Look at bullet #9 Unfortunately you will have to do a rather large drain and fill. There are quite a few posts around here instructing on how to do it without damaging your liner. I do...

You should never add dirt. You should only take away. Adding dirt just means that it may get washed out a few months after it is setup.

I do not know how the rectangle pools are built exactly. I will say on my circular pool though, I assembled the top rail to find out exactly where the legs would fall. I know you said you didn't want to unbox, but this may be your best option. Scuba_Steve's Intex Ultraframe Pool Build

I have to say, you are just going to be spinning your wheels still to a point. You SWG is going to be over worked and destroying its lifespan. You will have to put in extra work keeping things balanced. Even with your rainfall, I would get it down to at least the top of the recommended chart...

I will bet you will be fine now with 30g of bleach now that your ammonia is about gone. I wouldn't be surprised if you have a bunch left over afterwards. Ammonia pools generally SLAM pretty quickly once the ammonia is gone. I think the ammonia does a decent job at killing algae.

0.25-0.5 is a pretty small amount. I bet it was over 5 when you first started. I would expect that you are very close to having it beat! I would watch your additions a lot closer now. With the amount you have been adding, you could easily overshoot pretty bad once it decides to hold. It...

I have read a lot of posts around here where people free pour MA. Seems to be the most popular way to add it! Good choice to get the mask vs going to dry acid.

I truthfully never smell them. Try placing the tube on a white sheet of paper when they get to that iffy point. Try dropping without your speed stir at that point and see if your having an easier time.

Just for kicks, When you go to the store tomorrow for more bleach, take a water sample to an aquarium store, petco, petsmart, etc... Ask them to test it for ammonia. In the end, the result will be the same though, regardless of what is eating your bleach as fast as you can put it in. Add more...

Nut grass is the biggest problem from what I have read. If you have it in your yard, I would spray, and spray with something that is persistent for a least a couple months. This of course is just my take on the situation. (having a large amount of nut grass myself)

I guess I should have read the whole thread...

I keep mine in a drawer in the kitchen. I just bring a cup of water into the house and sit down at the kitchen table to start testing!

Just out of curiosity. If you have your SWG dialed in, why add a cover and change things? You are now changing a system that was working well to a new unknown system. One that you won't be able to check on and tweak at that. If it were me, I would lower my pH down to 7.0, and let the SWG do...

BTW, the FAS-DPD test will not work with pure bleach. It bleaches out a some very high point, and will give a 0 reading. An easier way to test your reagents is to get a 5 gallon bucket and add a teaspoon of 8.25% Bleach. Should come out FC somewhere between 20-30. At a minimum, it should...

Re: Which Came First: The "Sand Filter Pump" or the "Saltwater System" Sorry, I am use to my Intex SWG... Jblizzle is correct. Unless you are using an Intex, then I am correct. I think the 30 minute thing with Intex is in case the timers come out of sync.

Re: Which Came First: The "Sand Filter Pump" or the "Saltwater System" You want the water to run through your filter first, get cleaned of major debris, then go to your SWG (SS). I dont fully understand your next question. I believe you are asking if you should run them at the same time...