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Recommendations vary also based on how your oxidizer (usually chlorine) is being added. 2ppm is generally fine if you don't have a very high CYA level AND are constantly testing and adding chlorine as needed, or if you have a constant source of new chlorine to replace what is being consumed...

Thanks - will definitely check when they get here; I'm also going to have them add unions so I may just take the hit and replace the sand now, and then do the deep cleaning every year at opening. I could add the unions myself but I just don't have the time or inclination right now.

Testing every 2-3 hours. Keeping the FC at or around 12ppm. The sand was never deep cleaned; you think that's better than just replacing it? And yeah, the water is unusually warm, so I figured that wasn't helping. And the rain here hasn't been helping either.

Why 28ppm? Based on my CYA should be 12ppm.

Hi All: I very rarely post because I've never had a problem I couldn't figure out based on the amazing help here, but on this one I'm a bit baffled (or maybe I just need some encouragement to continue forging ahead). Went on vacation for a few weeks, and had a pool company come and service the...

Yes, I replaced the entire cell, including cable and flow switch. An interesting symptom that I noticed - when rebooting the SWG, its 8 hour run time begins. At 8 hours, only the top "salt level" light is lit - at 7:59, all BUT the top light is lit. at 7:58, another light goes out, as if the...

Do you mean a loose cell cable? I've checked that, and even replaced the cell. I'm going to go change the fuse holder right now and try to connect the cell outside of the "box" in which the wires are.

At this point, I've replaced every component in the system, to no avail. Could the GFCI outlet to which it is connected be causing this issue? *note - it's not tripping, and does disconnect power from the Autoclear when manually tripped.

It was a dare. You HAVE to do it . . .!

A raw egg. Including the yolk. Never again.

I called Polaris back again, they are sending me a third control board and a transformer. yay.

So I was all gung ho this season, got the water CRYSTAL clear thanks to TFP. Then I found out that my SWG wasn't working. I've been back and forth with Polaris, and they sent me a new cell (as in previous years I've already replaced the control panel and the entire control module). So it was...

AFAIK, it is not recommended as the high chlorine levels can affect parts of the cleaner.

I'm not sure what that is - do you leave a pool light on at night?

Some say change it every five years, others never change it. If it's filtering adequately, why bother? If it ain't broke . . .

In my experience, if all of the algae is dead I'm in a hurry, I just turn off the pump for a good number of hours and it floats to the bottom on its own. I generally only do this when there is already extra water in the pool that I need to remove anyway. If youdo thus, the water will probably...

Before removing it, you want to make sure it's actually in the fire from the pilot light. If it is, the just hold the control valve in longer until it can hold the valve open. These are not terribly expensive but can be tricky to get to when replacing - I have to use a little mirror to even...

I run mine at night when energy is cheapest, and an hour or two during the afternoon to circulate the heating water. I've come to the realization the my SWG has never worked in 4 years, so the cloudy water I've battled since building the pool has probably been because of that. I have a new...

Can you describe the gunk? Can you not just wipe it away with a wet towel? I wouldn't recommend using any kind of abrasive cleaning tool because it would likely scratch the surface.

The sunlight will still affect the chlorine in the pool. How much depends on your cover - what colour is it? Generally, the darker the cover the less chlorine is lost to sunlight, barring all other variables. The blue ones seem to be a good balance between letting the sun in to heat and block...

Sounds to me like the cloudiness is something other than algae, but still possibly organic. Did someone make number 1 in the water? ;)

FYI - the pH test is the same in the TF-100. You'll know for sure if it's too pink (high) or too orange (low), but matching the colours exactly may be difficult. I have a hard time differentiating between the different "in range" colours, but since they are in range I don't worry about it too...

If it falls during the day it may not be a problem. If it falls overnight it may indicate organics in the pool.

Such a significant drop cannot be just from sunlight, especially with CYA in the water. Are you adding anything to the water during the day? Is there some kind of animal drowning daily in your skimmer? Oxidizing a small critter with eat up all of your chlorine very quickly. Just a tip for...

For what it's worth, I opened to 0 FC and 0 CYA and I only shocked at night for the first two days (since the days were sunny) and throughout the third day which was overcast all day and the shock process was over. I believe the sunny days help clear out the CC for me. If your pool isn't green...

From my understanding of other posts on the subject, the pool with the higher CYA will lose less chlorine to sunlight on a daily basis. Incidentally, the thread I am recalling was about why pools chlorinated by a SWG have the higher CYA recommendation. The explanation was that although the...

I won't have the CYA until tomorrow evening, then another week or so for the CYA to dissolve. I'm thinking of shooting for a level of 30-50 for the shocking process, then once I get my salt level corrected and water temp up I would add the rest.

I can see the black drop for the CYA test all the way to the top of the tube. I assume this means I have no CYA; I just ordered 25 pounds from my pool company.

Just what I was thinking - I need to make sure my SWG is turned off until the water warms up. I also have salt and borate strips - I wouldn't imagine so, but are either of these temperature sensitive? I want to test the salt so I know how much to add once the water warms up. Regarding the...