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I have a question about the CH test in the TF100 test kit. When testing my CH the solution starts to turn blue with many red specs at about 140, the solution does not turn COMPLETELY blue with no red specs until about 250. My assumption is that the 250 is the correct reading. Am I correct?

Does anybody have any suggestions on where to get Muratic Acid online? My local leslie's store does not carry it and their website says it's sold in the store only. I see a lot of pool company websites that sell pH reducers that they claim are "better than Muratic Acid" but can't find any that...

Thanks all. I thought 100 TA was good, guess not. So it sounds like I want to lower ph to around 7.0-7.2 and then aerate to raise ph. One more question though when I enter all this into the pool calculator it tells me to add 100oz of dry acid but at the bottom it says 100oz will only lower ph by...

Over the last month the pH in my pool has been consistently rising to the point where I need to add Dry Acid on a weekly basis. My numbers are below: FC/CC: 3.5/0 TA: 100 CH: 200 pH: 8.2 I live in the Northeast where we have had some rain but I don't think it's been more than in past seasons...

Thanks!! After a discussion with the pool store we are sizing down to the Pentair MasterTemp 300K btu. It sounds though that this is a recommended unit as well so that is good. As for mice, my old heater didn't have that problem but is there anything I can do to prevent the issue with the new...

My Hayward H350 Natural Gas Heater is shot. I am looking at a Sta-Rite Max-E-Therm 333K BTU as a replacement. I've done quite a bit of searching online and I can't find much on heater reviews or comparisons. Has anybody had any issues with this heater or have any good feedback on it? Does...

I just opened my pool this weekend and have been running the filter continuously to get the water clean. Given the amount of dirt and leaves in the water I've had to backwash several times and suspect I may need to do it a couple more times before it can run on a shorter schedule with more...

I've recently noticed patches of brown spots on my pool bottom in the deep end. Neither brushing nor vacuuming remove the spots. My current readings are: FC: 10.5 CC: 0 pH: 7.2 TA: 210 CH: 380 CYA: 90 Does anybody have any idea what the spots might be and how I can get rid of them?

What impact, if any, does rain have on FC, pH and TA?

I don't see any air in the pump while it is running. As of now the water in the pump is clear. I'll check again after the pump shuts off for the day.

I'm aware of the TA/pH issue and I'm working on it slowly due to several factors outside of my control. Could the TA and pH have caused the cloudy water in the pump and is it something to be concerned about?

pH: 7.0 TA: 200 CH: 400

When I checked my filter basket today (after the pump had been off for about 15 minutes) the water in the pump was a cloudy grey. The water in the pool is totally clear and my testing indicates that FC is at normal levels (11.5, CC is 0.5 and CYA is 90). Both the filter basket and skimmer basket...

After about 20 gallons of bleach, FC held over night and CC is 0.5 (I think it is probably even less....the solution was only the faintest of pink with the 10ml test) and water looks great.....seems like I am done, right? As for the next step of lowering TA, we're having about 15 5 year olds...

I've started with the shocking to bring up the FC. Following the Chlorine/CYA chart I targeted a FC of 35 and given my starting point added 14 gallons of bleach. About 45 minutes later I tested and FC was at 25 and CC was at 1.5. Does that mean I did not reach the target of FC of 35 or that...

Yes, the water is still clear. I read and re-read the Chlorine/CYA chart, shocking your pool and lowering TA. I still have two questions: * will replacing water help lower the TA also? * isn't the CH high and should I replace water to address that?

ANOTHER UPDATE: I got my TF100 today and here are what I hope are accurate the numbers: FC: 1.5 CC: 1 pH: 7.0 TA: 200 CH: 400 CYA: 90 I've done the CH and CYA tests twice and both times came out with the same results (unfortunately!). I also plugged the numbers into the pool calculator and...

I have ordered the TF100....trying to get things right while I wait for delivery. The Pentair Chlorine test only turns yellow and only goes up to 3. I also have strips that read up to 10.

UPDATE: pH is now at 7.2 after adding 3 boxes of borax last night. I then added 4lbs of cal-hypo 78% and FC is over 10 (how can I tell exact level, test kit only goes up to 10?). FC has remained at this level for last 3 or 4 hours. I'm in North Jersey and it's going to be a beautiful...

I don't have TC or CC. I've got a Pentair test kit. Re: FC, that was going to be my next post...thnx for bringing it up. My FC was 1 all week. I shocked last night and it went to 5. This morning it was 1 again. The water is crystal clear, no algae, no odor, no cloudiness. Do I keep shocking?

The pH raiser is 100% sodium carbonate. Btw, I am newbie to pool ownership and this forum is a life saver......and incredibly fast response times too!!!! Thanks a ton for all the great help!!!

I have a question about raising low pH. My current readings are: FC: 1 pH: 6.8 TA: 110 CYA: 50 I have added 3lbs. of pH raiser but the pH level is not increasing (the reading above was taken about 2 hours after adding the pH raiser and is basically the same as the reading taken before adding...

Can I operate my filter and polaris with the solar cover on?

I am considering getting a solar fish to help keep the heat in the pool. Do they really work? And is anybody aware of any safety testing done on them? I have two little kids and I want to make sure what they are swimming in is safe.

I have a Hayward H350 with a knob controlled thermostat (as opposed to a digital thermostat). Yesterday I had the heater on with the knob set to about 1/3 of the way between Minimum and Maximum (what I thought was a relatively low setting). However, the pool had reached a temperature of 78...