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Yep, if PH is holding steady then don't worry about it. Just monitor TA as normal, and if it starts to go too high then you can adjust. Personally, I wouldn't get concerned until it hits 130-140. Even then it isn't an emergency, just time to start planning the correction. This is a typo...

Just FYI, the TA section of Poolmath only gives amounts for raising TA using baking soda. This is because baking soda has a minimal effect on other chemistry levels, it only raises PH slightly. Lowering TA can be tricky because muriatic acid will lower both TA and PH. You have to be careful not...

CH not a factor in vinyl pools. Maybe check it once or twice a season if you are interested, other than that I wouldn't worry about it. Well...don't let it get too high if you use cal-hypo or something like that.

Hey there! Was wondering how you were doing. If you replaced some of the water, your CH has probably gone down. As you know, with a vinyl pool you don't have to worry about it, so as it drops the water feels better (IMO anyway).

According to the chart, with a CYA of 120 you should maintain minimum FC of 7, with a target of 12. However, with CH of 750 you run the risk of calcium scaling at these levels. If you could get your CYA down to 80 or 90 it would help quite a bit, but this requires replacing roughly 1/3 of your...

That's a problem. You probably aren't maintaining a high enough FC level to compensate for the high CYA. You should try to reduce the CYA level by doing a partial drain and refill if possible. Look in the Pool School and find the information about the FC/CYA relationship. This will help explain...

I think it becomes a social issue for most people, they don't want to go against the "conventional wisdom" even though the truth is right in front of them. I've been trying to get my mom to convert for years with no luck. I asked her to give me one season of TFP, let me run her pool and I would...

Welcome aboard! First, you are on the right track by getting the test kit, its gonna save you a ton of time and money. To answer a couple of your questions: TA is ok at 80 (that's where my pool likes it). You can monitor it and see how the pool reacts with the pH and adjust if needed, but no...

http://makeagif.com/ ;)

If everything else is good I wouldn't go all the way to SLAM level. Maybe bump it a little if it makes you feel better, but I think any bad stuff would be long dead by Saturday. My $0.02

Get ready for some new questions/mistakes. "You guys said get chlorox..." :rolleyes:

Yes, shake it a little to mix the reagent with the water. The easiest for me to read it is outdoors against a white or very light background.

So let me get this straight...you're asking a pro-pool forum if you should keep your pool? LOL! I'm just joking around with you! My understanding is that a pool (in any condition) reduces the value of a house because of the perceived maintenance costs. Perhaps this is incorrect in your area...

Its kind of up to what you're comfortable with, but if you are confident that your gallons are correct there isn't any issue going all in. Here's a thought about your neighbor: challenge him to a contest, see who spends less on their pool to achieve the same results of clear, clean, safe water...

Yes, chlorine should be tested and adjusted (if needed) daily to stay in range according to the CYA/FC chart. Never let FC drop below the minimum level. Once the pool stabilizes, you may find that you can set FC a little towards the high side and skip a day (I do this), but never more than one...

oops...a post was moved by Jason but my reply didn't follow it, and therefore made no sense here.

Interesting...one thing that jumps out is the CYA. It usually isn't needed for an indoor pool, but with the large skylights you might need a little. It depends on whether or not the material in the skylight blocks UV rays or not. Does the SWG manufacturer give any recommended settings...

It looks like you have everything in order, but I didn't see anything about salt for SWS? If that is correct then I think you will be fine as long as it is working correctly.

OK, now to the problem at hand: Low pH could potentially cause the burning eyes issue. Pool math says ~6lbs of borax to get it from 7.0 to 7.5 with 12600 gallons. EDIT: With high TA you should aerate to raise pH as stated previously. However...you also state TC=1 and FC=3, which means CC...

If the area in question feels soft it usually indicates a leak in the liner. Not saying that's the case here, but it sounds like water is getting under the liner somehow, so you might want to have it checked.

Good to hear you got the FC to hold, now you can let it start coming back down. Based on some further study, I think these may be your next steps: 1. Get a quart (or maybe two) of Polyquat algaecide. 2. Let FC drop to minimum level for your CYA (maybe even lower if you are comfortable) and add...

This is strictly my opinion, but it seems that drain and refill would be the easiest option, much less work than going through SLAM. You still want a good test kit though, it pays for itself many times over.

I think the lack of response is because you have a somewhat unique situation with the metals, and folks don't want to give you bad information. Better no advice than bad advice in this case. :) From what I know about metals, chlorine and ascorbic acid do not mix. The ascorbic acid will burn up...

Sounds like it. I would recommend brushing at least once per day. If your vacuum is stirring up clouds, that means stuff is sitting on the bottom and not getting to the filter. Stirring it up is a good thing!

It will be fine to add the salt at this point. You should have the SWG turned off right now to let the FC drift down. It might take a day or two for it to get below 10, so maybe check it this evening then again in the morning. It is fine to swim in it while this is going on. To modify what I...

My bad, I missed the salt part. You can begin bringing it up to the correct level. For TA, you are at the upper end of the recommended range but it isn't a big issue at this point. You can adjust it down later if you would like, but I would not adjust it yet until you know where the pH is. The...

At this point, nothing. You passed OCLT, your current numbers look good. Hardness isn't much of a concern for a vinyl pool, but you might test again just to try and figure out why the number changed so much. Other than that you're good. Let the FC drift down below 10 and then test/adjust pH.

Same with my pool, I just leave it be. It drifts up to 8.0 on occasion so I just lightly correct it back down. No complaints from my swimmers!

Re: New to pool maintenance...about to give up From what I've read of Ozone feeders and such, my understanding is that they may work but are much more expensive to operate than chlorine. I think the reason is that it is a sanitizer but not an oxidizer or algaecide. Chlorine covers all three of...

Re: No Free Chlorine - Please help! Hi Chas, its best to start your own thread, that way you can get specific help for your situation. Please read the top two posts first, they will help you to help us.