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Any comments on whether it should spin freely? My other motors do but they do not have start capacitor/centrifugal switch.

Sometimes the board can be damaged requiring repair or replacement.

I thought it was recommended for most 2-speed pumps and also how the automation systems do it (enforce a delay before switching to low speed).

Well since you can't start the pump in low speed you would need another timer to automate the high/low switching (T10604R). So if it is designed to run 24hrs cycle most of the time at low speed and part time at high speed this is the only way to do it with 1 timer. At that point you may want...

Do you really need the second pump? Why not put a valve actuator to switch between the standard return and the water features. Ramp up the speed on the pump when the features are on if you need to. - - - Updated - - - That is what he's saying but two pumps competing over 1 suction line...

Voltage is fine and I'm running a different motor on the same supply right now with no issues.

Also for filling a dry pump before priming. Pool techs sometimes carry a short hose with two female ends to do this.

So I pulled the motor apart again and can't see any obvious problems. When spinning the shaft, it will stop and shudder like some sort of magnetic brake has been applied. Is this normal?

There was no mismatch of motor/impeller. I have now swapped filter pump and water feature pump so I can work on it without filtering downtime.

Capacitor gives correct value on a meter. The hottest part of the case is directly above the coils. Capacitor housing is not hot compared to that.

The motor has only a start capacitor ~300uF. It is a 2HP 240V motor. It stutters when it starts. Once it has been running for an hour the case measures around 80deg C. I just noticed these issues recently and it has been installed for several years. When I changed the bearings I made sure...

I believe the motor is 10 years old. It is not original to the pump, but wet end is also approx 10 years old. It can run (hot) for several hours before shutting down. I don't have a clamp meter to read the current. The voltage is correct. The whole housing gets hot, I haven't checked the...

My pump motor is running very hot and eventually reaches thermal shutdown. It also has trouble starting. I replaced the bearings and cleaned the contacts of the centrifugal switch. However this did not solve the problems. Should I change out the start capacitor? Could a bad start capacitor...

Well it worked but I wasn't ever that impressed by it. Yeah I'm sure that's the way it is connected.

Well I did mention in-floor cleaner in one of the posts above. It's a Caretaker system with 5 zones and 19 total heads. I would like to be able to run both at the same time since it is a good way to distribute heat. Ideally I would never have to switch the in-floor returns off even if I am...

So I figured out that I need 100GPM for the in-floor cleaning @ 25GPM per nozzle. Or are those ratings maximums too? Trying to decide if I should move to a 2HP E-Plus 2-speed or variable speed. Seems like variable speed will save me around an extra $120 a year in electricity but will take at...

Ah got it... like a siphon. Thanks for the info. Might look at moving to a 2-speed.

That may be true but the table printed in the manual is titled "Recommended Flow Rate". And the table on this website recommends 125gpm (http://www.poolplaza.com/pool-pump-sizing-2.shtml). Anyway I have no idea if it is running at that gpm because I don't know the real head pressure I was just...

Yeah I have it its WFE-8. I have a 520sqft cartridge filter with a recommended flow rate of 150gpm and an in-floor cleaning system. Assuming the system normally operates at 50ft/125gpm, if I increase the head by 20ft (any additional resistance through solar panels?) then the flow rate...

No I'm not sure it's necessary. The main pump is 2HP (2.6 SFHP) and the top of the panels are probably 18-20ft above ground. Pool is 25k gallons.

Doing some maintenance on my system and trying to figure out if I want to change the plumbing configuration. Current Configuration: IN->Filter Pump->Filter->Solar Booster Pump->3-Port Valve---Tee--->Heater->SWG->RETURN | ^...

Yeah I guess I am going out of my way to avoid using a peristaltic pump. I have 2 pools on separate plumbing and one has a shared spa. I was going to use a shared acid tank and wanted more control over the flow even at the low rate. I guess I could just use two sets of drippers and check...

Thinking of building one of these for acid dosing ... What is the min dilution recommended for pre-heater injection? I'm also thinking of using an electronic valve to control the flow and a float switch in the acid tank.

There's also a $10 coupon if you google for it. Shipping was fast for me.

Just got the Nitro Wall Climber and tried it out for the first time today. Seems to work ok and cover the pool well. Doesn't always climb all the way up to the waterline. There was a good amount of dirt in the fliter bag and some small sticks. I don't have that much debris on the bottom of...

Nice work. I also heard you can use epsom salts instead of glass beads?