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Re: In Stock Pool Supply (Santa Ana, CA) .. Cheap, but hones Near the top, right corner of their web page is a header saying they are BBB accredited. If they are, they should show up in a search of the BBB database.

Re: Hayward 6060 booster pump - replace seal or bearings ... I recently replaced the seal in my 6060 booster pump with one from U.S. Seals. The part number is PS-200 and it works fine. I didn't have to do the bearings, so I can't help you there.

Does the level drop if the pump is off?

Wow, that's a bunch of pipes! Glad the expansion coupling worked, but I like the four 90's tip too!

Is there enough room for an expansion coupling? This YouTube video shows how to install one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=so9XZS0aD1s#!

Is it this one? http://www.poolpartsonline.com/p-176-pentair-hi-flow-2in-multiport-valve-parts.aspx Scroll down and click on the picture of the valve top assembly.

The shaft seal has two parts. The white ceramic seal presses into the pump body, but does not touch the motor shaft. The other half is the spring loaded carbon seal and it is installed behind impeller with the carbon face against the white ceramic seal. It slides on to and seals against the...

I have the same filter and replaced the motor on my super pump with a two-speed motor about three years ago. My basket lid also squirts when the motor goes to low speed -- at this point I consider it normal. My automation is set up such that it goes from high to low once per day. The only...

I think the part number is GLX-CELL-UNION

I use the coarse crystal solar salt from Home Depot or Lowes. Look for the solid blue bag -- no additives, just 99.6% salt. You can search this site (go to the bottom left of this page) regarding the salt, there are a number of conversations about it. Dump the bags in the pool and give them a...

Congrats! There is an article on SWG water balance in the pool school that has some good info in it. Be sure to turn the SWG off when you add the salt and while the salt and water are mixing (overnight I think).

Our pool is on a hill. The dig was deep enough such that the pool was fully in the ground on the low side of the hill and long enough to have a retaining wall on the high side of the hill.

Our pool and SWG are four years old and I have not had any rust or corrosion problems. We have a concrete pool deck, so I have no experience with how pavers hold up to the salt water that gets splashed out. From what I've read here, it costs about the same in the long run whether you go with...

I am not familiar with your SWG, but they do have a website that might help. Here is the link: http://www.resiliencepool.com/technical/manuals/psc-3/ They show some details about the flow sensor. Hope you get it working!

1. Consider adding a union in the waste line close to the multi-port valve. It will make it easier to remove the MPV when the time comes to service the filter. 2. Are the check valves necessary? Especially the one at the suction of the pump. I am not an expert, just asking... 3. I agree with...

Seems like the photo library used to be easier to find -- click on Pool School at the top of the page, then Complete Table of Contents, then click on Visual Encyclopedia of Pool Equipment under the Handy Reference Material heading. Or just click the following link...

You SWG may not put put enough chlorine to get ahead of the algae. Consider shocking per this Pool School link: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/shocking_your_pool

No rebar in our slab, so I can't help with that. Also I don't have a close up of the bonding clip, but perhaps these will help with the overall bonding project. Hope that helps some, Gordon

Mine does it too. We try to keep the pool toasty well into September - with the solar cover on except to swim, the ph drops from 7.6 and stabilizes at 7.2.

Scroll through this post: http://www.troublefreepool.com/aquarite-not-generating-lights-not-on-t18264.html

If I were your friend I would: 1. Buy a good test kit http://tftestkits.net/Test-Kits-c4/ 2. For shocking purposes treat my pool as a chlorine pool and raise CYA to the 20-30 ppm range. Then shock using bleach per http://tftestkits.net/Test-Kits-c4/. 3. When the pool is clear and has passed...

Re: Replaced Salt Cell - Check System on - No Flow - Salt Of I would check the flow switch and make sure the flapper is still attached -- it should look similar to the picture in this link: http://www.troublefreepool.com/flow-switch-for-goldline-swg-t16200.html Mark the top of the switch (or...

If you find that your pH is constantly going high, borates can help stabilize the pH. Here is the link to the Pool School article: http://www.troublefreepool.com/so-you-want-to-add-borates-to-your-pool-why-and-how-t4921.html

Good point! There is nothing wrong with it (as far as I know...), but does it come with the Aqua Rite for $875? I probably should have stated that the two systems be compared side-by-side to see which was the better fit for their needs, rather than just compare the price tags.

The larger size is cell is the way to go, but you might check with your builder to see if their system was going to be used to automate the pool (control pumps, valves, heaters...). If so the Aqua Rite may not be the best choice.

There are some at the following link -- you will have to check the diameter of rail to see if any of these will fit. http://www.poolcenter.com/parts_deck_equipment_ladder_anchor.htm

Last year we had a lot of rain and my CH level got down to 50 ppm and I noticed that the liner got slippery. Adjusting the CH level up to 140 ppm brought the tackiness right back (it was apparent that afternoon). I can't say if CH level affects the life of the liner, but in my limited...

Here is the direct link to the directions for shocking your pool: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/shocking_your_pool Hope that helps!

Welcome to TFP! The Pool Calculator is one of the many links you will find by clicking on the "Pool School" icon found at the top right corner of each page. Here is a direct link to get you started: http://www.poolcalculator.com/

Re: NEWBIE - Low water level, gurgling, and no water in skim After adding water you might also verify that the skimmers weirs are moving freely. They act as flaps and should open to let the water in and then float closed when the pump stops to keep debris from floating back into the pool...