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Interesting. I'll try it. I guess each time you backwash it flushes it all out?

We live on a farm. Corn and soybeans in alternating years (soybeans this year) are the major plants. One 50 foot tulip poplar 30-40 feet down wind of the pool. It blooms every two or three years, but not this year. We do get a lot of windblown dust usually, but its been so wet this year...

Had the light out a couple weeks ago - no water in it then. I'll take it our again and and disinfect it again - would leaving it out long enough for it get completely dry help? I didn't do that last time. Maybe I should just take it out - we never use it. Been working on the TA for a year...

Thanks Kim - did as you suggested (it looked pretty clean on the inside this time) and for awhile, I've been thinking I had it licked. But today, it's back again, a dark yellow/rusty stuff on the lens of the light. Teats results have been good (I have a 'diary' of test results in a spreadsheet...

After a year of crystal clear water and no problems, I got sloppy and didn't check the FC level for a week. We had opened with FC=12.5 and perfect water, but now we had cloudy water – not green, just white/gray cloudy. My fault. So we started to SLAM (I've done it before so I know it works)...

So I've found a balance point running the SWG at 40% and the pump 12 hours a day (a seven hour period and a five hour period). FC is 7 to 7.5 every day, pH gently rises from 7.2 to 7.8 over 8-10 days. Pool is crystal clear (thank you TroubleFreePool.com!). My question - I want to save...

I've been pouring MA into a 2 quart plastic measuring cup and slowly pouring the measured amount in front of the deep end return. But when I read "Lower the bottle into the water" I thought that would be a lot easier and safer, but how to measure pouring directly from the bottle?

In another thread I read, "Lower the bottle into the water (keep the opening a few inches above the water) and slowly pour that way. I see some vapors, just make sure the wind is blowing away from you. " How do you measure the amount you are adding when pouring directly from the bottle? Or is...

I deep cleaned the filter - yuck! So much junk floated out! The FC has been drifting down for the last three days - bright sunshine all day. So, here's the latest test results: FC - 9 CC - 0 pH - 7.8 CH - 275 TA - 260 CYA - 70 The TA is really high, but Pool School suggests that's tolerable...

Went on a week long vacation. Left the pool at SLAM level, with the SWG running. Came back to a higher FC than when I left (it was covered the whole time). Turned off the SWG, and passed OCLT last night with flying colors, lost ~1 ppm FC, CC =<.5, water crystal clear (in the three years we've...

Thank you for your comment - you're right to be cautious. I'm optimistic - I think if I had tested it 12 hours earlier ('overnight') I might have met the OCLT criteria. But I've put in too much work to risk stopping too soon. I plan to continue the SLAM for another week while I find time to...

I think I win, thanks to all the help on troublefreepool.com! Before - about half way through the SLAM: And today, about 10 days later: FC = 32, and I haven't even begun to get things balanced, but its crystal clear, CC=<.5, and lost only 2ppm FC in 24 hours (covered the whole time so it...

Twice now, after heavy rains, my PowerTouch Keypad has gone dead. The first time the pool store talked my brother-in-law through getting it working - I think they reset the PIN but unfortunately I wasn't there. Yesterday, it went dead again. Resetting the PIN wasn't possible, nor was the...

Thank you!

FC 32.5 CC 1 pH not tested TA 270 CH 250 CYA 80 salt 3000 Still SLAMing. Adding about a quart of bleach a day. Still green, but not as cloudy and not as green so I guess that's progress. I'm thinking it won't be done by the end of this wek, and I will have to be away from it for 7...

Okay. I'll keep practicing. Still SLAMing at this point. With the SWG running it's maintaining the SLAM FC level (31ppm) specified by PoolMath without much additional bleach. It's still green, but I can see the bottom well enough to remove the few leaves that were there.

Got it - thank you. After replacing half of the water, the CYA may be about 80. That's a really tough test to read; I did it twice, once 'straight' and once diluted 50% and doubling the result. The key seems to be bright light - I tried holding it on the LED lights of the SpeedStir and it...

So while FC>10 I should just not bother to check pH? The last time I checked it with FC<10 it was 7.2 - is the high FC what made it read 7.8 today?

So I replaced a third of the water which brought the CYA down to about 90. Full results: FC 20 pH 7.8 TA 260 CH 300 CYA 90 salt 2000 That didn't make me happy so I drained 16-18% of the water - it's filing up as I type. In view of the above results, I added 120 lbs of salt and 2 gallons...

Thank you! I am using PoolMath - but I missed the part where it calculates the shock level. More water replacement it is; I'll get that going as soon as it stops raining so hard. The drops on the TA test looked normal. I was careful to wipe the tip as instructed before each drop. I...

Post #1: Before I say anything else, I must say thank you to all of you who so generously share your knowledge on this forum. We've had our pool (my wife's dream-come-true) for three seasons so far, this year will be the fourth. Until late last summer, I trusted the pool store who installed...