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Welcome to the forum! I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

Keep the pucks for the summer. You will need to add some CYA each month, and if you are not installing a SWCG, you will need to use pucks if you leave the pool for more than one day.

If you obtain your own test kit for phosphates and they test at 3000+ parts per Billion, then if you wish you can by a quality remover from Orenda or SeaKlear and do a treatment. It will cloud your water and you will need to thoroughly clean your filter within a couple days of the treatment...

And YOU can install a new cell. It is very easy. Check with Home - Marina Pool Spa & Patio for a new cell.

Filter flosser works well for me. I do not get much gunk. Key is to use hairnets in the skimmer.

Check for debris in the impeller.

Welcome to the forum! https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Just_Filled_Your_Pool_with_Water%3F_Here%27s_What_To_Do_Next I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

Generally you should add sand to the point that the shell of the filter starts to curve in. So about 2/3's full.

My fiberglass pool had a few when new. Made the mistake of getting them 'repaired'. They are now very noticeable as they can never match the gel coat color. Yours being white they may have a better chance. But they do not cause any issues if left alone.

No need to change the sand. Your choice.

That is a lot of pump for a small sand filter. Have you checked the sand level in the filter lately? It may be too low.

If the wireless access point and your mobile device are on the same network, local will work.

Let the FC come down to SLAM level. 16 gallons of 12.5% added 57 ppm FC to your pool. Check your numbers.

You added way more liquid chlorine than you should have to reach 12 ppm FC. That is your SLAM FC level. Maintain that. Please read

I have the setup you are now using for my Screenlogic. The PA I put inside the Easytouch box. I hang my wireless access point out the bottom of the box. Of course, were I live, we rarely have rain. You do not show your location, so you may have to do something more extensive.

It is not. When you can see it, it has grown uncontrollably.

@Dirk has one.

Your SWCG either makes chlorine or it does not. The rate above the minimum needed to close the flow switch is of no consequence in the creation of the chlorine. Your filter pressure is low as I suspect you use a VS pump. You should clean the filter when your filter pressure rises by 25% over...

Great. I always assumed a bit of iron as the high pH of the product would oxidize any iron in the water used for the process in creating the sodium hypochlorite.

Here is our wiki on that device -- Pentair Intelliph - Further Reading

If you drain to below jets I suspect that is 30-40% of your pool volume. It is a non issue.

As you said, the device is not accurate. Does it matter what it says the flow rate is? Can you disable that feature?

Should have an oring on the mating surfaces.

Best if you do. Read

A bit. Not enough to create an issue. Especially with you as you drain / overflow water due to rain, winter, etc.

Nearly all liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite) has a yellow tinge. It is from the process that creates it and it is iron that tints the product yellow.

Then you need to add some CYA. I would add 20 ppm worth of dry stabilzer via the sock method. Once dissolved, test again 2 or 3 days later.

That would be 15 ppm. If your pool has any CYA in it that is not all that high. Just let it slowly come down. No harm done. Be ware pool companies can add odd potions that will effect FC testing. They should be consumed over the next few days.

I doubt you will have any issues. Be sure to use pump unions for the new pump. Not a threaded inlet.

Welcome to the forum! I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool