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Last year was my first winter with a swg. I ran it for 8 hours @ 50% until it stopped generating chlorine when I shut off the swg and still ran the pump for 4 hrs @1000 rpm just to keep water circulating and run the Polaris to keep the bottom clean. I sold the house the end of July. I hope the...

Welcome to TFP! Stay away from Leslie's!!! They'll try to sell you a bunch of stuff you do not need! Get the TF-100 test kit it will save you a whole lot of cash in the long run!

Pretty pool!!! You're off to a great start!

Not sure how you got those numbers, but pool math says you need 17oz of 8.25% bleach to get you to 3 FC (that's just over a pint I'd suggest you could put that in now), 79 oz of borax, and 39 oz of liquid stabilizer or ~ 1 lb of granular (I'd suggest). But yes, you should really get the TF-100...

I run my pump at 1500 rpm for normal operations , ie cleaner and skimming/swg and now 750 for freeze protection. I've been told that the boost pump will run the cleaner sufficiently regardless of main pump rpm as long as there's flow. I haven't checked it at a lower rpm than 1500. Maybe next...

I think you should wait until your water temp gets back up to above 60° and then, if it gives you a high salt warning replace the water you need to get it back to a level that it will generate. If it generates without the replacement, don't worry about it. Mine is supposed to stop at 5500 ppm...

I got a cold indicator yesterday generating flashing light and water temp is 53° so I shut off the power to the swg. Reset pump schedule to run only 4 hrs to include 3 hrs of cleaner time. Should be good till next spring.

Well, we're getting all we need and then some this morning!

What I'll keep in mind is that I've had faucets freeze at 30° and equipment replacement is big bucks I don't have to spend. I'd rather be safe than sorry. The default for my freeze sensor is 32° so, I think I'll leave it at that. The temp Tuesday morning is supposed to be 25° here.

Hey neighbor! You need to keep a close eye on your water level and never let it go below the skimmer opening. I try to keep mine at the middle of the opening and top off immediately upon finding it close to the bottom of the opening. My water level is such that proper level is indicated when...

The digital timer runs the boost pump and the swcg. I've had the timer for over a year. And while I schedule all the pump runs on the pump itself, I find it convenient to use the timer to sync the boost pump the swg and the intelliflo. Besides the pumps freeze protection is for only the pump...

That's exactly why I bought an intermatic digital timer with a freeze sensor. It will supply power to my pump any time it gets to 32° then turn it off again when it gets above 32°. I just schedule a 24 hr runtime on my intelliflo at 450 rpm which will start when my timer's sensor supplys power...

I'll assume, either system has an adjustable output, so I'd think you could assure there's not too much fc being being generated.

Pentair makes a couple models of VS pumps there is quite a difference between them. I'm assuming you got an owners manual for it. You should be able to find the Pentair cs phone#. Give them a call they'll be glad to help you with your programming questions. You may want to update your Sig with...

The bigger point might be that you lost 4 something fc in two days not counting any that may have been generated by your swg. It appears you didn't test yesterday. While you're trying to dial in your swg, you should be testing every day. You should never let your FC go below the minimum even as...

When I was needing to add TA, I bought 13lb bags of it at Sam's. I'd use a 16 oz plastic cup and broadcast 3 cups into the pool at a time. Test it again and add more as needed. It too dissolved very quickly.

We have bright sunny days here in the dead of winter and I don't have to add hardly any chlorine, sometimes a week at a time. I reduce my pump runtime down to 4 hrs just to keep skimmers working and my Polaris cleaning any debris off the bottom. I'll soon be disconnecting power to my SWG.

You've said the temps are ~ 50 +- 10 that sounds like air temp to me. It's water temp that determines your swg running or not.If you don't already have one, you might consider investing a couple bucks in a cheap pool thermometer. Your swg owners manual should tell you the temp range for it to...

Welcome to tfp. You're off to a good start with that tf-100 test kit. We normally post fc/cc results. No need to ever use phosfree if you keep your FC at an appropriate level. You might reconsider using calhypo for chlorine. There are detrimental factors for all forms of solid chlorine...

Yup that was an hour I'll never get back. To find "some" of the info needed. When I first installed my swg, I too wondered why the instant salinity and other displayed numbers were 0. So I called cs and they told me it generated in 200 Minute cycles. If I was doing say 60%. It would generate 2...

Your first post said you replaced the pump, but evidently, it was only the motor. Apparently, yoy don't get the correct seal kit for your pump. Sounds like you jury rigged the seal. Never a good idea. Hope getting the correct seal will fix it. When my pump went bad, I first hoped for just a...

I try to clean out my skimmer baskets when the pump isn't running, but once in a while I've cleaned them while the pump is running. As a result, a few leaves made their way to the pump basket. I remove them quickly after I notice them, but they have never gone back to the pool (at least that I...

When I moved into my new house with a pool, it too had two mechanical timers. One fire the main pump and the other for the boost pump. I could never get them synced perfectly. So I bought the intermatic Digital timer and freeze sensor, that solved the sync problem. Then I installed my swg...

The problem with doing it that way is when you put the weight of the trichlor tab. That will give yoy the amount of fc that will have been put in by the time it is dissolved, which when tested won't even be close to what you expected since fc is being constantly used up. What can make that...

Use granulated stabilizer/ conditioner for cya--solid chlorine-- tabs and shock --will take a long time to get your cya up to where you need it. Use regular bleach for your chlorine. As said before, get your ph down, cya up and test and dose fc daily. Looks like your SLAM shouldn't take too long.

I'd definitely get the fas-dpd too.

Have you tested your fill water? Mine was 140 out of the hose. Lowering TA usually needs to be done in more than one step.

I've had 2 gals of muriatic acid (unused/unopened) in my garage for two years. Have had no leakage or any noticeable effects whatsoever. I'm assuming they're sealed at the mouth of the bottle-- the same as my bleach that I'm storing. If I opened the bottles, I guess I'd move them outside.

Let's see what it looks like now!

I love my 1353. ran two 104s prior to getting the 1353.Run my Polaris 3 hrs/day and my vs pump 4-12 hrs/day depending on the season. Got the freeze sensor to keep water flowing when the temp gets 32° or lower. Getting ready to set the pump for freezing weather soon. Swg will stop generating in...