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Why does the Pool pilot need power cut? I only have a Nano+ but it is powered 100% of the time. It doesn't produce when the pump isn't running because is detects zero flow and shuts itself off.

No matter if the suction is set to main drain only, skimmers only or spa only the pressure does not change. Given this fact I should take apart the pump and inspect the impeller?

the gauge does go to zero when the pump is off. It moves when tapped but settles down to ~10. That sounds low but it's where it settled after the last backwash. I would expect it to be around 20. I checked the impeller inlet and there is nothing blocking it that I can feel.

Oops, you are correct. The return side is set to spa the suction side is set to pool although the valve isn't 100% closed on spa suction. That's not normal operating conditions. The first picture is old. I don't know why the valves would have been in that position.

Exact opposite of the first picture. The first picture has the valves set to pool. The pressure doesn't really change much when moving from pool to spa mode. No. I can get them to function poorly if I set suction to 100% from Spa and use the blower to remove the water from the line before...

I did confirm the pressure. It's either ~10 (which is about where my pool runs normally) or my gauge is broke. Aiming the jets down doesn't help it much. The video does look almost perfect doesn't it? I didn't have the amount of splash out today that it usually produces. It might be...

I have confirmed it is a 1.5HP SuperFlo pump. Air Supply Line http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y466/rjledoux/WP_20131014_001_zps7a187bed.jpg Blower http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y466/rjledoux/WP_20131014_002_zpsd0f1bf57.jpg From return valves to fence for perspective (ignore the junk...

I can add a picture of the blower when I get back home. It won't add much. It's a pipe sticking about 5 feet out of the ground about 2 feet out of the picture with the blower mounted on top. The 5 foot pipe now has a ball valve about 1 foot from the blower. This is not a new development...

Yes I've tried the valve. I have to restrict the air flow so much that it causes too much heat on the blower and kicks the saftey shutoff. The pressure out of the jets isn't that strong either. The water in the pool churns more from the 4 pool jets than the spas 5 jets churn the spa. What...

I'm still having issues with the spa. The blower is too powerful at 1/2 HP. It blows water over the edge and out of the spa. The distance from spa to air pipe is short enough that I should not need a blower. When the valves are in spa only operation and I turn on the blower than shut it off...

It's not uncommon for the UV index to be 11+ (Extreme). Today is 10 (Very High). There is nothing wrong with running CYA in the 30-50 range. It will just consume more FC.

also make sure the 10% bleach you've found comes from a source with a high turn over and it's stored properly. Lowes caused problems for me because the bleach was closer to 3-4% because it was stored outside in high heat.

The abnormally high UV he's going to experience. If you search it's not that uncommon to see intentionally elevated CYA in high exposure areas. The only time it will really hurt you is if you need to SLAM. If it's new construction and he stays on top of the chemistry from day one then he...

You will want to run with higher than normal CYA in the south Texas sun. I suggest using salt water levels for CYA and normal levels of FC if you plan to use bleach as your FC source.

I thought you said the stains appeared WHEN you shocked?

The numbers early in the thread were from the LaMotte or the LaMotte with 50% dilution. The variance was too high to be of any real use. I happened to see a K-2006 on the shelf when I picked up some Cal-Hypo. The LaMotte accuracy still doesn't account for the weak bleach. My 10% bleach was...

I finished up with the FAS-DPD at 13.5ppm .5ppm overnight loss with <.5cc. The Colorq theoretically has a .1 resolution on FC but I can't get a source of chlorine consistent enough for me to validate the instrument. I doubt LaMotte's claim on that resolution. It's not bad for everyday testing...

normally I use a LaMotte 2056 but I use the FAS-DPD from a K-2006 when I expect FC to be above 10ppm.

With the CYA I added this afternoon I should be ~60. I'll confirm tomorrow and add another gallon. I'm adding slowly because I really don't want to overshoot.

yes

UV index today was 11 (Extreme)

It was 45 yesterday. I added a gallon of liquid CYA this afternoon. I just finished SLAMming this morning. I didn't want to crank the CYA up until after I had finished. It's possible that my loss will drop now that I'm not feeding my FC to organics.

has anyone investigated the relationship of FC loss to the UV index? I was calculating the balance point for my SWG based on 60% loss due to UV and I wondered if the relationship is linear to the UV index. My pool should be stable at 5ppm with the cell set to 63% with a 10 hour pump time if...

89F

:party: Done!

When evaluating an OCLT, is it required that the pool be at shock level to declare a success? Is <1ppm FC loss good enough at 80% of Shock?

Control Unit

Before After

12am - 5am drop from 14.2 -> 12.6 on FC with CC at .9 It's clear something is consuming the FC but it's also clear that the bleach was not raising the FC as much as it should causing the numbers to look worse. I'm switching to cal-hypo tonight. I have enough room in my CH that this won't cause...

and BOOM! 1.6 CC Hello Mr. algae, I've been looking for you Although I haven't ruled out that the bleach is weaker than 10% as well. I'm going to pick up some 8.25 from another source tomorrow.