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Update: I installed a light switch after the transformer within the PX100 enclosure, so that I can toggle the leds without risk of voltage surges. There's still a switch before the transformer so I can power that down when not in use.

Chat GPT's response: You're absolutely right — in Canada (and the U.S.), isolation transformers are required for pool lighting to comply with CEC (Canadian Electrical Code) and NEC (National Electrical Code). These codes mandate: Isolated secondary windings to prevent shock hazard...

You mean the isolation between 120vac and 12vac?

Here's what Chat GPT has to say: Yes, what you're describing is very plausible and transient voltage surges from switching the transformer on and off could be damaging your LED lights, especially sensitive ones like the Pentair MicroBrite. Here’s what may be happening and why it matters: ---...

Hi, the pool lights are wired on the same breaker as a gfci outlet. The other equipment: pump, heater, swg, are far enough from the pool so they don't need gfci protection. A concern I have is whether the position of the light switch located before the transformer (as per the owner's manual)...

These leds are so expensive. If I can do any simple task to protect them I will. Today I added a surge suppressor to my panel to protect the leds (and the other electronic equipment). I hope this helps. I'm not sure if others do this as well?

My goal is to make the lights last a long time and so far it seems like water (freezing) and heat generated by the led itself have been causes for premature failure. The megaloc should, I hope, eliminate water in the conduit The air pump I hope will cool the led driver. The 14v I hope will...

Maybe I should run the lights at the 14v setting from my transformer, I think this might lower the current draw and reduce the heat generated by the circuitry. I see the electrolytic caps are rated for 35v so this is probably safe I think. My wire runs are 60 and 80 feet for the two lights.

I think spa blowers are built using fans, while aquarium pumps use a piston or diaphragm so they are able to push air under higher psi water. A fan blows a larger volume of air but with less force. Maybe that's why spa blowers burn out? My light conduit are only about 12" under water, aquarium...

Has anyone used an aquarium air pump and line to force air down the LED conduit in order to cool the light in summer, and prevent freezing in case water leaks into the conduit during winter?

Should I pour food grade propylene glycol down the conduit?

Here goes...

UPDATE: So when I installed these lights, I used teflon tape and silicone around the o-ring. I drained the pool and took the lights out. Both conduits had water behind the lights. I looked into a product called Megaloc by Hercules. There's also Rectorseal T plus 2. These are both used by...

I don't need to lower ph too often. I also use borates in the spa.

Usually in the fall before winter, then again in spring and as needed in summer

Oh, I failed to mention, this is for my bromine sanitized spa. Is dry acid ok then? I do strictly use muriatic in my pool anyways.

One of my two LED lights failed. Are you surprised? I keep my pool at 40°F in winter. When installing LED lights, specifically Pentair Microbrite, I used the dry conduit o-ring, silicone, and teflon tape. 1) Is this enough to prevent water from entering the conduit and causing freeze damage...

Thanks for clarifying (pun intended) So I should stick to Muriatic?

The app is telling me to add 2g of pH Down / Dry Acid. But I believe it should be 20g instead.