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That sounds like a familiar symptom. As Tom indicated it could just be the power supply but either that or the motor is dying.....sooner than later I'm sorry to say. I've had several Aquabots (at least 4 now) over the last 14 years. The newer units come with four year warranties now so that...

Common problem with them. You need a new motor and it's usually cheaper to just get a new unit.

Do a google search and you'll find them.

I've had a Raypak RP2100 since 2000 and have never had an issue.

Why are you running at 100%? That's not good for cell life. In addition to reducing run time dial down the SWG.

Since you mentioned Hayward as having good support in your locale you should consider their Goldline Aqua Plus or Pro Logic. That will give you the SWG plus some automation for your VS pump and other equipment. They have many different models, one should meet your needs.

I've had about four Aquabots now over 10+ years. They work great if properly maintained. However they are expensive to maintain. The motor is usually the first to go and it is usually cheaper to get a new unit than to replace the old motor. The new units also have a four year warranty now. So...

I have a ColorQ Pro 7. Used it a couple of years along with the TF-100. Stopped using it before the start of last year because it is just easier to use to the TF-100. I have a BS in Comp Sci and an MBA in Tech Mgmt so I too am a geek. I wanted a digital readout that just told me what the number...

Figured it out. L2 should have been common and 'A' is low speed.

Replaced a one speed pump with a new Tristar two speed. Connected 'L1' to the pump load on the Pro Logic and 'L2' to AUX1. The 'A' was connected to the common of both the pump and Aux1. Ground was also connected. I then set up the Pro Logic as a two speed pump. Since I've never had a two...

I've done something similar and you are right with the constant stress exerted they do eventually tear the cover but I get my covers longer than I need and then just cut when it tears and it is brand new again. Not nearly as nice as an automatic cover but it fits my budget and works great for...

Since you want a timer....why not go with a SWCG that has timers built in like Goldline ProLogic instead of the Aqua Rite? Same company same SWCG but with automation control for a few bucks more.

To repeat and reinforce what others have said....add liquid chlorine to immediately raise your FC level. Increasing the percentage on your SWG increases the amount of chlorine being produced by your SWG it does not increase the salt level. At a higher percentage your salt cell is working harder...

You can set the pump for 2 different times unless you have a two speed pump. The first time should be labeled Filter T1 and the second is labeled T2. My pump is single speed so I use T1 for a few hours and then use T2 for a few hours at a different time. Works great. Another option is to get the...

Re: Cleaning testing vials I have a beer cup but it has beer in it not pool water. Does that count?

Your CYA of 100 is too high and your usage of tabs is why it has gotten so high. You need to add chlorine immediately. For 28000 gal your with a CYA of 100 your target should be 14 FC. FC+CC=TC so something is wrong with your posted numbers but with a FC of .1 you need to add 3 gallons and 1...

After many re-occurrences of cancer and no reason as to the cause I started looking for anything that may cause it. Since I had a pool and heard that chlorine, at the time I didn't know it was the chloramines, is a known carcinogen I began a quest to eliminate chlorine from my pool. Two summers...

If I had to choose today and money was no object I'd pick the Pentair but if Goldline can get it together it will be a worthy competitor. Don't waste your money.

oops missed one.....http://www.goldlinecontrols.com/Support/manuals/092329C.pdf

Yes I have not done it through the HAI but it is possible. I have done it through AMX. The Pool controller should be looked at as if it is an independent controller and the home automation controller should be considered as if it were just another keypad of the Pool Control system. As I stated...

If you are looking to integrate with your HAI your best bet would be to get a Pentair Intellitouch, Jandy Aqualink, or a Goldline Aqua Logic controller with their respective HA interfaces. I have written interfaces for all three. The Intellitouch or Jandy will give you more flexibility in...

I have a G3 and an Aquabot Bravo. They both have their pluses and minuses. The Aquabot is easier to get going. You just plug it in, put it in the water, and turn it on but then you have to clean out the filter bag. You don't need the filter running and the power consumed by its transformer is...

FYI, my Liquidator was sold immediately.

Are you sure that you replaced the belts properly? Could be the motor if you think everything else is good. Do you hear the motor engage? Do you see the sprockets trying to turn?

I agree with everything stated so far. I've had a pool for about 9 years now. The first 1 or 2 were OK since I didn't have a clue what I was doing and the builder put in a FROG. The pool store sold me lots and lots of Crud I didn't need like algaecide and clarifiers, and....took a lot out of my...

If you already getting an Aqua Rite why not spend a little more ($200 or so) and get the Aqua Plus? That gives you the SWG and the automation.

Do you have the handle positioned on an angle as the directions state? Were you provided with additional flotation pieces in case they were needed? If not call Aquatic Dist and ask for some.

Conversion formulas: Tc = (5/9)*(Tf-32); Tc = temperature in degrees Celsius, Tf = temperature in degrees Fahrenheit Tf = (9/5)*Tc+32; Tc = temperature in degrees Celsius, Tf = temperature in degrees Fahrenheit

I have a brand new 8 gallon Liquidator I purchased over the off season but have decided to go the SWG route this year instead. I will accept any reasonable offer for this unit. PM me with any questions. Thanks.

If you go the route of attaching the printer to a computer than the computer that it is attached to must always be working for anyone to use the printer. Get a print server device and set up the printer as a network device. It is easy and it always works...