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I would want a similar pump to what HD has. I could buy a used one from them for about $225 but I could rent one four times before I paid for it so I'll rent due to how infrequently I will need one. Not being in the industry I would want an electric pump.

Well, it is an aftermarket cell.... If you have one near you, Leslies can test your cells and maybe the PCB, but I can't remember.

No danger of pop outs here. We have no water table above maybe 150' down or more.

I agree, this might be the last really good weekend to do the drain. I too drain into my cleanout. I use the HD rental which gets the job done in 4-5 hours. Rent it for the day. They will give you two 25' 2" hoses. The problem with Harbor Freight is that I don't think they even have a 2"...

You will need to give the manufacturer and model of your pool and preferably a PN from the old skimmer to get help. At least some photos of the pool and the opening with measurements. If you didn't know any of this how did you order from Amazon in the first place?

All you do is squirt a bit into the tube and glance. Then squirt more and glance again. It is low. Get yourself a couple of lbs of granular CYA and put it in a sock in front of one of the pool returns so it can dissolve. You can squeeze the sock to help it along. Give it 24 hours before you...

You will need to drain your pool and refill it to make it manageable again. You can't get a good CSI at that CH level. Mine was 900 after about 3 years and my fill water is 150 so I just drained it last month. I am going to extend my soft water from the kitchen 6 feet out to my pool fill line...

Yes, it's entirely possible that you need to backwash already. That algae is collecting in the DE. You need to backwash when your pressure rises to 25% higher than the clean filter pressure, if you know it. Have some DE available to refill the filter.

Reorder the powder from TFTestkits.com. They can probably overnight it to you.

If there is any chance that you will be draining and refilling your pool then you can measure how many gallons run through your water meter to determine it.

Why a pool service? You don't have any time to handle the water balance yourself?

With any automation system you will not need the timer. Without automation, if you run a pump, VS or not, by itself and add a SWG then you will need the timer for the SWG so it turns on after the pump starts and turns off before the pump does so that there's no risk of the SWG being on without...

Is your soil all silt or are you backfilling with sand? I see a big pile of it.

Just dump your reagents into a stream of water running in the sink.

Normal pump speed with normal water return to the pool should be fine. That is up to you.

Wrong, wrong, wrong way to do it. Just put your granules into an old sock and hang it in front of a pool return so it can dissolve. Then you can periodically squeeze the sock to help it along. You should never mix chemicals out side of pool water.

That sounds like a sub market SWG. You mention automation in the future. If you are definitely going that direction then try to keep your pump and your SWG within that same brand. Unfortunately, that means you have to look to the future and decide on a brand environment now. Pentair is the...

Your robot will be overwhelmed. Just let the filter do it's job and backwash it when it rises 25% over it's clean pressure. You are overtesting just a little bit. At the beginning of SLAM you want to test about every two hours. As the SLAM begins to work and your FC loss begins to drop you...

I, as many do, test my water in my kitchen. I also have to go to the sink to rinse my cylinders so there is no difference there. Just no wind to deal with on windy days. The only test done outside is CYA. I too use a Leslies bottle. At least it's good for something.

No, it's not a danger to your heath. Just to your pool health by relying on it too much.

Well, proof of that would be needed since it's just a fixated industry standard. Failed blankets are probably the result of UV rays and thin materials, not to mention that nothing is made as well as it used to be made years ago. Heck, fiberglass pool manufacturers give one FC number, pool...

Copper stains pools and it's only use is to kill active algae. We have other methods for that which will not introduce copper staining to our pools and still kills algae - if we even get it. Keeping FC at the high end of the range dictated by your CYA level is key to that. Using a SWG to keep...

Do you have one of our recommended test kits? Your chorine is way too low for keeping the pool sanitized. Your FC must be in range per your CYA level. If you follow TFP protocols you won't need algaecide. High copper will stain the pool and turn hair green.

Kind of like when I had my alarm company come to replace a motion sensor that wouldn't work only to find out I put a new dead battery from Costco in it. I hate paying for dumb service calls.

Problem 1: Doing your testing at the pool store. Problem 2: Worrying about phosphates at all. Those are only measured by the pool store so they can sell you a magic potion to "remove" them.

Disconnecting it and reconnecting it along with some cleaning probably cleaned the pins so it works now.

Clay will soak up moisture when dry and oftentimes heaves upward. That would be as bad as sinking when too wet.

I pull my skimmer basket whether the pump is on or off. The pump basket requires the pump to be off as does opening the DE filter if you have to. To backwash the DE filter you turn the pump off, move your valve, then turn the pump back on so you don't dead head the pump while moving the valve...

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And it could heave.