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I have always heard that the pH-level is important for the chlorine to work best. Here at TFP I also hear that the pH should be lowered before slamming, in order to give the chlorine the best environment. But then someone showed me this article that says, than when cya is present the pH can be...

But can we hook it up to the existing sand filter pump? We were worried that the pump would be too powerful, since it pumps about 4000 gal/hour - our pool is 5000 gal.

DH cleaned up in the garage today and found this pump. We are wondering 2 things, since we’re not that pump-savvy…… 1: Our pool is 5100 gal. Will this pump be way to powerful? Currently we use 1 1/4” hoses and fittings. If it can be used, then…… 2: is it possible to hook it up so it uses...

Ok, then the 0,63 should be correct. It doesn’t say which unit so I couldn’t check it. 👍🏻

I bought it on Amazon, but it looks like it’s sold out - the link doesn’t work. But you can also get the K1515a for the chlorine and buy the cya testing stuff separately.

We have inherited an Intex 6220 swg, and it is said to generate 12 g chlorine/hour. In pool Math there is only one Intex swg with an output of 0,63/24 h. How is that calculated? Furthermore, we don’t have percentages on the swg - the output is chosen by runtime only. Can we still use poolmath?

Thanks for the tip on the 5 ml sample. When I have FC this high, of course there’s no need to measure .5 values during the day 👍🏻 I know I’m a bit high with my cya of 30, but with our high uv-index today, I would rather go safe than sorry 😁 And I’ll keep filtrering and say “PoP” 😁😁

The oclt is 1 I have absolutely 0 cc - that is strange. No pollen on surface. I bumped fc up to 18 yesterday afternoon. At night it was 17. This morning 16 and I topped up to 18 again as we have a very high uv-inden today and I was away for some hours. There is no change in colour from...

Our pool has been tfp-clear until yesterday. When I pulled the cover off, it was yellow-greenish. The bottom had a lot of yellow dust - the pump is running 24/7 Cya: 30 FC: 6.5 CC: 0 (maybe 0.5 - very hard to see a difference) TA: 80 PH: 7.6 The pump is blowing out yellow clouds, too small to...

We have a 16 ft Intex on a concrete pad at the moment. When we set it up 3 years ago, 3 of the legs were outside the pad, as we didn’t account for the extra room for the legs when we made it. We will be replacing it next week, and want to get the new pool level. The current is about 1.5 inch...

And of course, welcome to TFP 👏🏻 This place taught me about POP (pool owner patience), and cheered me on, getting my pool from this: To this: in just a few weeks. (Please ignore the stained liner……..) When I was about to give in to floc, algaecides and other snake-oil stuff, there was always...

Hello - Someone called me 😁 I am from Denmark and had trouble finding a fas-dpd kit as well. After some research I realized, that the reagents not allowed for overseas shipping are the ones for TA and CH. All the others are fine, so I ordered the K-2009 kit from Amazon.com, which comes without...

Klor Stabilisator, 1 kg - Udespa & Living I think you are right - HTH is unstabilized and the most popular chlorine for “serious pool owners” in Denmark, but only available as granulate here.

When using LC, I need to add cya - that much I know. As of now I have used pucks for cya, but don’t want to use them in our new pool. When googling for stabilizer in Denmark, only one type can be found. But they have this warning: “May only be used if HTH chlorine is used. It is extremely...

Cool - I missed that in the wiki-list. And unfortunately it’s not an upgrade (well, upgrade to a leak-free one, you can say). It’s identical to the current one, as we are limited to the size of the concrete slab we made for the first one (with underfloor heating pipes connected to the hot tub...

After discovering 3 holes (one in the weld line) and a previous patch looking somewhat meh in our pool, I ordered a new one today - due to arrive next week. I want to have a “virgin pool”, only touched by the good stuff 😁, now I have the chance. My thoughts are: Check pH - lower if needed (tap...

Amazon.com I was able to find a kit that could be shipped overseas - and Amazon covers the import taxes as well, so I guess I’ll be ordering reagents from there in the future.

My first official test results with my brand new K-2009: CYA: 30 FC: 17 (whoops 😳) TC: 17 CC: 0.0 PH: 7.3 TA: 80 CH (not tested) Nice to see I didn’t undershoot the LC 😁, but I think I’ll let it air out for a couple of days…….. Quite an eye-opener.

Ok. Here they are marketed as "prevents water and debris from weighing down your cover". We don't have very cold winters here - last winter we had only a handful days with temps below freezing, and only enough to freeze maybe 1/2" of the water.

Our cover has drain holes in it - maybe that's why we haven't seen any issues, even though we've drained the pool to below the outlet when removing the hoses for the winter. No matter what, our cover would never be able to rest on the water, as an Intex pool has holes underneath the top bar...

I saw a video somewhere, where they tied strings/rope across the pool in a zig-zag pattern (before putting the cover on), to avoid the cover bulging down. I'm definitely gonna try it this year. Looked like an easy fix. We had an inflatable pillow last year, but that was a mess, since the cover...

Inspired by a post I saw here at tfp, I mocked up a prototype of a solar cover holder. The idea is great - material not so much, as the pipes are flimsy and bendy. But that’s what we had at home. So we’ll work on improving - I just needed to see how it worked in a practical sense, and I’m a fan...

Thanks so much for the detailed tips R-0007 is one of the reagents that cannot be shipped to here, so it’s great to know that an alternative is possible. I will get them ordered right away 👍🏻