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This is the guide I’ve used. I get To nunber 13 and that’s the issue.

I’m honestly at a loss. Completely. I know everything works except the 24 volts being sent to the gas valve. This weekend I’m going to check those wires again. I should also get 24 volts coming right off the ignition control panel telling the gas valve to open as well correct? It I do a...

If I have to pay a guy to come here to look at this fron the neighbouring city as Ours doesn’t have a pool specialist, and then i have never changed a fuse at all. I looked at it yesterday and it looked fine.

I don’t know. I’m not even convinced this is the issue. I have put in a new fenwall. New circuit board. New hot surface igniter. New flame sensor. And it does the same thing now with all the new parts that it did before I even changed a single part. HSI glows hot. Then get a clicking sound...

Man this is so frustrating. Swamp rat I hear what you’re saying. Why would a faulty gas valve damage the Fenwal. I have diagnosed the LRZ on the lrze troubleshooting guide someone posted. Everything checks out right up until step 13. There is no 24 volts to the gas valve. And there is...

I spent some time yesterday on this, and there is not 24 volts coming to the gas valve. As I mentioned earlier, the hot surface igniter broke so I have a new one on order, but nonetheless I did turn on the furnce, let it go through its ignition sequence. The 2 wires that go to the hot surface...

I was measuring this by taking the two wires off the gas valve, letting the heater go through its ignition sequence and testing the two wires that normally would go on the gas valve. If I leave my multimeter on the two wires, let the furnace go through the ignition sequence, the HSI would heat...

I also found on this site a step by step trouble shooting guide. https://www.fwwebb.com/docs/gas/JandyPoolHeaterTroubleshootingGuides.pdf Everything checks out To step 12 and then it was getting dark and cold so i came in. I couldn’t verify the voltage to the HSI. But I assume since it would...

So I’ve done the ohms resistance testing. Nothing. I get no reading whatsoever when I measure resistance on the two gas valvle contacts together. Then also tried to touch one contact at a time while putting the other end of the multimeter on the fenwall ground. And again nothing. I’ve tried...

Thanks swamprat69. I had the flat igniter style. But it blew so I order a spiral one. Should be here next week. Seeing as I am just testing resistance I assume I don’t need the igniter installed for that. I will get this tested and report back what the resistance is.

So if I am not getting the 24 volts to the valve, what might it be?

I can try that again tomorrow but when we ordered the Fenwall we did try this and we weren’t getting 24 volt from the Fenwall to the gas valve. Which was another reason we thought it was the fenwall. But new fenwall installed. Does the same thing. Glow comes on. Glows bright. Then clicks from...

Ah this pool is gonna be the end of me…. Have a Jandy LRZen250 natural gas heater. Have not ever had any issues starting it other than I’ve had to replace a Couple flame sensors. This year I get the glow from the hot surface igniter. Then I hear the clicking sound. Glow goes away. And...

And in your experience it works as well? Even a new cable is $100 so that’s not bad. The $1400 for the entire cel seems steep to me. Can you message me more info about the 3rd party cel?

I’ll try and remove this tonight. Will send your some pics.

I’ll take a look tokorrow.

And when I remove the cover plate what am I looking for?

Well I’m going to test the salinity of the pool and it it is where it should be - then I’m going to replace the cable and salt cell. This thing could be 6 or 8 years old for all I know. Our pool season up here is pretty narrow - mid May to end of Sept. so it doesn’t get used a whole bunch and...

What is the best thing out there to rest salinity. I’ve always just used the salt cell reading? Also, below is what I use to manually check chlorine level. Anyone have experience with this?

Thanks. I found a spare pcl1400 in the attic area of the pool shed fron the previous owner. It doesn’t have corrosion by the pins. So I plugged that one in and that one giving me the same message. However - the “spare” salt cell I found is clearly used. So don’t know if it had previously died...

Here are a few more pics. Pics at 40% production and it shows the error code. After I plugged it back in and turned up the chlorination to 60% code is now gone. But i am guessing it wii come back right away.