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No, the one in the picture is the only one I have.

One more question, do I need to change the jumper to make this Controller 2, like in the diagram below:

@dfwnoob - Thanks for the helpful information! I was able to find the wires and reconnected to one of the RS-485 data links on the new board, and the All-Button appears to be alive again!

So this wire was left inside the box, would it be as simple as plugging it into the board on the empty pins?

This is my Aqualink RS4.

Just had my salt system upgraded to a PLC1400 and upgraded to iAqualink3.0 Upgrade Kit w/ RS-PS8 PCB. We've always had the Aqualink RS4 mounted on the wall inside the house inside the back door, to control the pool, hot tub, and monitor the system (would display the air temp, water temp, salt...

Well... Soldered the new thermistor onto the board and same errors... Will search for replacement boards.

Moved from HERE I have the same similar issue with my T-15 cell. My Aqua Rite also does not display the cell type in the display, but I am on version 1.10 and it is configured with a jumper on the board. I purchased a new cell (Hayward T-15) yesterday, but my Low Salt and Inspect Cell are...

Yes, it might be a little cloudy but I filled it all the way to the top and could still see the black dot. Thinking I will wait till after my SLAM is over and test again before adding stabilizer.

with my TF-100 Test kit.

I am in the process of a SLAM on my pool, tested yesterday and CYA was at 30. Added liquid chlorine to bring FC up to 12 per the recomendation. Tested again this morning and tested the CYA just to make sure I was still on track, and it showed 0. Just tested again at lunch, and still 0. The...

I have a MiniMax 400 pool heater that is not heating. Only the power light is on the front of the control board, but sometimes the thermostat light will be on also. I just replaced the circuit board about 2 years ago, due to the same similar issue, could this be the same problem again? When I...

** UPDATE ** After fighting with algae the last few weeks, decided to bite the bullet and drain the pool once again.. and I drained about 95% of it this time. I drained it so far, I was able to walk across the deepest end, and it was about ankle deep! Before draining it I brushed the pool...

:( sigh.....

Just did the diluted test, shows reading of 60 so if I double that, means my true CYA is 120 now? :(

No, I did not, I was going by the CYA instruction paper that came with my TF-100 test kit.

I ran my pump on waste for 1 1/2 hours, I estimate I replaced around 75%.

Tested the CYA level at lunch, still reading about 80. Brushed the pool down really good, will add some bleach tonight and let the pump run overnight. Water is really green, but hopefully will clear up after adding bleach and running for several hours. Any other suggestions.

Drained the pool yesterday evening, filling back up overnight, it should be back above the skimmers by noon today. How long should I let the pump run before I test the water?

I have been debating on doing that, keep thinking about the added expense on the water bill, but in the long run will probably be worth it.

I forgot to add, I had been using the pucks for Chlorine also, but I turned that off after reading all the info on this site too. I will only use the pucks if I am not at home for an extended period of time.

I received my test kit yesterday evening, feeling like a mad scientist now! :cool: Over the weekend I brushed the pool, and added 1 bottle of 10% bleach and let the pump run overnight. Sunday morning it looked much better, still a small bit of algae on the bottom, backwashed the filter and...

I just replaced my light that had been burnt out for about a year last week with a LED one from Amazon. I replaced my gasket and glass lens since the one that was installed in my pool was the blue tinted lens, got the clear one this time. Word of advice, the gasket goes over the glass lens...