Search results

Cool idea! (plus those are my fingers)

That’s right. Calibration and inter test variability are the big ones for me. I bought one photometer based solution and it was worse than miscalibrated it was producing wildly different results with the same water sample. I have come to trust my Taylor kit and I know a few others do here too...

It’s a good idea. If you did this you’d want to use the V part of HSV and not the H (hue). And ideally you’d want to average over a window of pixels because while hue angle tends to be similar over nearby pixel, the intensities (values) can vary a lot from pixel to pixel. Would be good to find...

Yeah this is the main thing you have to get right when you take the picture. Using the white card is ideal but as long as the background is pretty consistent, it tends to work well.

Yes I’m so painting my house “dark Terra cotta” now, aka “pH 7.6”

To say a little bit more. If you click on the color name on the “What a color?” App it shows you this. Note the hue in degrees.

Ok I used the App (for iPhone) called “What a Color?” ‎What a color?

Thanks for pointing this out. I PMed Matthew from that thread about this one. I personally tried the ColorQ Pro 7 2x and found it pretty unreliable in general. The same exact vials were producing different measurements over different trials with the same lighting and everything. It's possible...

Good point. The main reason I did the acid demand test was because I was reading higher than 8.0 pH. Is there a better way to do this?

@generessler I just now saw your thread on this from August. Hope this keeps you from having to develop it yourself. PM if you want the actual App that I used, I don't want to be seen as promoting any apps.

I specifically have Deuteranopia (red-green colorblindness) and it makes reading pH measurements painful. So instead of struggling with color matching, I thought of a good way to read pH with a color picking app. Any color app that reports colors in HSV (hue, saturation, value) space is ideal...

So I added enough MA to bring it to the following: pH: 7.6 TA: 120 (didn't measurably move, but after some brief reading on TA and pH moves from adding MA, this makes sense.) Thanks to all who helped, @ajw22 @Newdude @mgtfp

I’m going to stay where I am for now and potentially gradually increase it as needed later. But thanks for this

I didn't mean to imply that 350 to 320 was a big deal. I didn't see scaling happen and my LSI was still ~0.35 or so. I was just being interested and curious. I'd never seen CH drop at all before after a month of testing and now I suddenly see it when LSI is higher.

FYI all the above measurements were my own except for the historical 350 CH which corroborated my own historical 350 CH measurements from my Taylor test kit. But you can be sure that this is the last time I'm going to mention any Leslie's measurement at all.

And here I was hoping to avoid a lecture about using pool store measurements by stating: "Please no flaming about the pool store measurement"

I thought scale forming was from a combination of levels and that's what CSI is for. I've never seen a claim that only CH matters is scale formation. Makes sense. Great, this makes sense. Not in entirety, I'm still going through all the articles. Thanks for the links.

So today I tested my (perfectly clear) water and got: FC: 6.8 CC: < 0.5 pH: > 8.0 TA: 120 CH: 320 CYA: Just about 30* The pH was obviously concerning, so my further thoughts about it are as follows: For the whole last month my CH was consistently ~350 on my Taylor kit *and* at the pool store...

I heard this before, now I know why, thanks.

It wasn't from my cell, it was from liquid chlorine, NaOCl. I didn't add HCl either.

Yeah I plan on closing the pool in a couple hours, measuring the FC to see where it got and then keeping it closed and only checking it once a week or so, and keeping it at about 5-6 ppm (my Minimum is 2 ppm according to Chem Geek's chart). It's been a fun month of learning, capped off by...

No no, you don't need to worry about that, you've helped me a ton. :) It's good information that I can fix it in a day or two or even a week and not lose sleep over it.

So, if I left pH at 8.3 for a long time with a CSI around 0.5 - 0.6 would it be a problem?

Yes I know. Also, I'm going to raise CYA. Yeah, I truly believe it's around 8.3 as evidenced by the ColorQ reading and the acid demand test I did on the Taylor kit. Therefore it's likely not a false high.

I left my pool open all day and it dropped FC from 13 to 8 ppm and the pH went back down to about 8.0. I'll drop both down a little more and then just leave it be.

So, I did my first SLAM as discussed in this thread and I believe it was highly effective. Thanks to many this forum for their advice and guidance on many topics, such as my possible need for doing a SLAM, for getting an FAS/DPD test, and for advice on raising my CYA. I passed my OCLT (lost...