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On this part, I found a way to validate flow through the heater, at least relatively. I can look into the check valve and see the position of the spring as I move the bypass valve position. What it appears to me is that opening the bypass even just slightly creates a lot of change and flow...

@ajw22 I have been attempting to experiment with my new heater to figure out the thresholds of pump speed, configuration, etc that will allow the heater to run effectively. One thing I have noticed is that if I open the manual bypass partially and then run the heater, it will shut down quickly...

Hello there -- the connection I am referencing in this post is pictured below. I purchased this split bolt at Home Depot and then connected a new copper wire to the bonding grid here. The other end of this wire splits off and runs to the bonding lug on the SWG control panel. I'm not sure if this...

Ha. True. Would it be possible for me to move to the Pentair with my current equipment configuration? I imagine myself migrating more to Pentair as things need to be replaced over time, if that is possible. Currently heater is Pentair and controller, pump and SWG are Hayward. Can I move to...

Agreed. But thus far, I haven't found a good upgrade path. I've thought about going to one of the newer Hayward systems that has a retrofit kit for the Ecommand, but some have advised against this saying they are unreliable. Do you know of a good system I could explore that might work with all...

In this recent thread, I asked about some issues I was having with my Hayward heater. I ended up replacing my Hayward 500btu heater with a Pentair Mastertemp 400btu heater. I also had the installer plumb in a manual heater bypass. My updated equipment pad can be seen in the photo below. I will...

Ah ok. I thought it was an actuator somehow controlled by the heater itself. If it relies on control from the automation system then yeah that makes sense.

Thank you. I'm a little confused where the article mentions the Pentair Automatic Bypass. Are they saying that with a Pentair heater this is better to use instead of a manual bypass? Or would you have both a manual bypass and this automatic bypass?

I wasn't able to get around to trying to diagnose this myself. But I had a guy from a pool company I like out (my original pool builder has not been good to work with in support) and he showed me where there is a lot of corrosion around the heat exchanger and water leaking out from there. So, it...

I'm sure I don't but this is the way the installer set it up and I don't believe there is another breaker in there to use. I would have to get an additional breaker added.

Oh, sorry yes I just meant I would need water flowing not the heater running. I believe the heater is on the same breaker with the automation system so if I trip that I guess I would just run the pump manually. But I've never done that before either, so a lot to figure out. Or I guess I could...

This may be a little more than I can take on, but I will look into it. Do I need to disconnect power, etc. before doing this disassembling? I assume not because it will need to be running to see where the leak is.

Hello there. I have just noticed my Hayward H500FDN heater was not firing and went out to check and it has a bit of a slow, dripping leak at the front left bottom and mid-right bottom of the unit. I took off the front panel and can't see anything leaking in there but that's as far as I have...

Hello all. My pool has a Hayward LPWUS11100 pool light (Crystalogic 500W equivalent) that was installed by the builder. It has stopped working and my understanding is there is no choice but to replace it. I have a few questions: Can I replace this with a new Hayward fixture without running a...

My pool is starting its third season. I had not thought much about the Weir Door on the skimmer as I have had no trouble with it, but recently a bunch of styrofoam came off of it and not it flops around a lot more. I figure I could replace the styrofoam but looking around it seems there are...

Up here in OKC we are just now crawling out of the freezing temps. It's been 10 solid days of freezing temps at least the majority of the day, with probably 6-7 of those days staying below freezing 24/7. At the heart of the freeze, we were at 0F. We had two solid days where it stayed between 0...

Thanks, I might hit you up on a separate thread to discuss this. I've read and read a lot about it, and still feel I don't have enough of a grasp on it to feel comfortable.

Just going back to the original topic of this thread, I would say that my pre-heating the pool by running my pool heater in advance of this weather system has helped. I am in Oklahoma City where our temps have been a good 10 degrees or so below yours throughout this event. I had the pool at 70...

This is what I always do for any extended period of freezing temps (more than just a short dip below freezing overnight). Just always seems better to me than rotating back and forth all of the time. Just set the valves manually and keep water flowing through everything.

Is this offer available before September? I might be looking into this once we get through this cold snap.

Understood. I have thought about this before. For me, it's not about laziness but uncertainty in being able to figure out how to do this -- and also the uncertainty of what will happen to the pool and spa if the surface freezes hard (which will happen every time if I don't keep the water...

Are you and @mas985 advocating the same thing? You seem to be advocating a full shut down / winterization (I assume with blowing out the lines, etc.), while I believe @mas985 is just advocating a temporary drain at the pad in advance of a weather system like this. For me, the full winterization...

Yeah, I think my point is in line with yours, the difference being I see the point of trade off as being much further down the road than just 12 hours sub-freezing. Maybe it's just the difference in our climates, but I would consider it very low-risk to keep pumps running through sub-freezing...

This all makes sense, but I feel like it is sort of in line with my point. The point I was making is only that in some cases we as pool owners might be better off to just drain the pad and let things sit during bouts of sub-freezing weather. Whether or not this is true is dependent on how long...

Would it be different for lakes if they had filter pumps that were circulating their water and keeping it at an even temp top to bottom -- and then if sub-freezing temps lasted long enough to get that entire body of water down to freezing levels?

Understood. I know my explanation is oversimplifying, but I do think there is some degree of truth in it, as evidenced by the fact that you eventually pulled the plug, presumably because you felt the risk of keeping it running was higher. And on that point -- I am curious -- what factors led you...

To me, the scariest thing about keeping the pumps on and running is that eventually, if the air temps stay below freezing for long enough, the water temperature will eventually get to 32 degrees -- and that is 32 degrees throughout the entire pool, all of the underground pipes, the equipment...