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I'll have to try that. Unfortunately it's one of those lights that's connected through 100' of conduit, so I can't take it out to put in the oven, but I will try to bake it in the sun some more.

Would you think that if I've dried it out and the light is just dim with green and blue LED's showing, that the light is bad? Or is it possible it wasn't fully dry? I think I've eliminated everything else, but before I spend $900 on a new light, I figured I'd ask. :) Thanks!

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately while the light is no longer tripping the breaker after drying out, it won't change colors and is very dim. I think it'll need to be replaced. :(

EDIT: Removed it from the niche and took it apart to see there's moisture in the light, so letting it dry out in the sun and following steps from this video and this post to see if I can get it working. Hi all.. I've had a GFCI continually trip and have figured out it's my pool light. I...

Did you check to see if there's anything obstructing the end of the tail where the water comes out? I had a similar problem with my 360 and it turned out to be a small stone in the tail partially blocking the flow. Popped the end off, pulled out the stone and it worked like new again. 5 minute fix.

That looks like you have the valve cutting off the main drain. Turn it 180 degrees from where it is and that should be a normal operating position. Also, make sure you don't still have winterizing plugs in your skimmer(s) as with the valve in it's current position, it should still be drawing...

You can help your ears out when you dive down to get rid of the painful pressure on them. It's a basic skill taught to scuba divers called the Valsalva Maneuver: http://divebetter.wordpress.com/2007/09 ... -maneuver/ Good luck with the drain.

Did you by chance screw down the knob by the half moon opening? Was that piece broken? You probably already know this, but the amount of water coming out of there is adjustable. Not enough pressure, close it down...too much open it up.

One quick note.. I can't quite remember if all three wheels are powered, but if they're not, you'll be able to tell which one (or two) is the drive wheel(s). That's the one you want to see if it stops easily. :) Oh, and make sure when you're doing your testing that the polaris isn't in...

Pull the Polaris out of the water when it's running and look up inside the suction inlet--you should see three really strong jets. Then as the wheels are turning, grab one of them and see if it's difficult to stop--if it stops very easy (like barely any pressure on the wheel), it's likely...

What's it doing? One thing that you need to do is ensure that the hose is cut to the proper length.. it should a foot or so longer than the farthest spot away from the pool (otherwise it'll tangle itself up). Take a look at the manual for the exact size it should be. May help with some of...

You should be able to use the existing connectors. They will screw right onto the new section of hose.

Re: What is the name of the tool used to attach the pool cov I've heard them called a bunch of different things: safety cover tool safety cover installation rod loop lock installation tool spring installation and removal tool Any of those will come up in searches. Here's a couple of...

I have a Circupool RJ45 and it's been great. Never had any problems with it and it keeps my chlorine levels right on target with 8 hours of runtime at 30%.

You're safe to swim up to shock levels.

4. The pool calculator will only give you the amount of bleach you need to put in to bring your levels up from the "Now" column to the "Target" column. For your CYA level, your target FC range is 6-11. The 135oz is taking it from 3.5 to 10 (using 15% like you said). With retesting every day...

I'm sure there are more knowledgeable people than me that'll chime in, but the first thing I'd do is add some bleach/liquid chlorine according to the Pool Calculator to bring your chlorine levels up and immediately stop using the pucks as your CYA level at 120 is far too high... it should be...

Thanks, Richard. I just finished up my partial refill so hopefully that will put me back in a decent CH range.

CH of our fill water is 50 (so I'd figure that replacement for evaporation and splash out would actually lower it). When I add MA, I drop it to 7.2 and by the next morning it's back up to 7.4 or 7.5. It's almost impossible for me to keep it 7.4 or below without having to add acid every...

Hi all, When I opened the pool this year, I had significant scaling (full details in this post from June). After finally learning how to take care of my pool in Pool School, I've had really great results. Levels have all been good as I test pretty much every two to three days since I've...

Did you try taking a sample directly from the return to see if there's higher FC levels? You may need to shock if something organic is in the pool. Do you have any CC test results?

I have a CircuPool RJ45 (45k gallon) on a 24,000 gallon pool. Running for 8 hours per day on 30% has kept me at 5.5 FC.

After switching to a SWG and continually struggling to keep my pH down even after lowering TA to between 60 and 70 (it keeps going up where I've had to add acid almost daily), I figured I'd try out putting borates into the bool. 18 boxes of borax and 5 gallons of MA later, they're in! I'm...

My kids said the shadow of the Polaris looks like Yoda with a light saber! And thanks for all of the compliments!

I wonder if instead of "5" it was actually "S" and he didn't catch other letters with it. There are a ton of "S" codes in that manual: http://www.poolandspacentre.co.uk/docum ... eGuide.pdf

What's the error code?

Here's a manual for a UHS series.. not sure if it's the right one. http://dreammakerspas.com/_PDFs/manual_ ... 062111.pdf The controller in that manual looks a lot like the ML240 from here: http://www.balboawatergroup.com/getdoc.cfm?id=174 Here's a manual for the ML240 (links to a ML200...

I'm right there with you now as well--I even have my wife doing it. We were watching a "Backyard by Disney" show (not sure if that's the real name or not) and they had a segment where they were showing a redone pool with kids in it. I was thinking to myself "wow, that water is cloudy" when my...

Whatever is in your pool is using up the chlorine as fast as you're adding it. You need to be testing as often as possible and adding bleach whenever you see the FC level drop so that you're always maintaining it at shock levels (but no more than once per hour). Add your chlorine to get it up...

From looking at a picture of it (as I don't have it), I would believe you'd read it at the fluid line. So when you move the black dot up and down, wherever that fluid line is on the scale when the dot disappears would be your CYA level. I'd think this would allow you to save some reagent if...