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http://www.amazon.com/Liner-Wedge-Beaded-Liners-120ft/dp/B005P4UO1Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1400170197&sr=8-1&keywords=liner+lock

It looks like you have at least two skimmers. If you're using the skim-vac you need to at least partially close the inlet of the skimmer you're not using (mine have little circular "tabs" under the skimmer basket that can be rotated to close the inlet.)

Run through the filter.

Your chlorine is a little high for your CYA level but not too much. ( http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock ) It will certainly go down very quickly. If I were in your shoes, I'd probably let the chlorine drop to 5 or so and adjust your pH to 7.2. You started...

I love this quote from the school system information officer, “I stuck my hand in there,” he told HuffPost, “and when I pulled it out, all five fingers were still attached.” Sounds like a legitimate alternative to using all those expensive chemicals to test the water. :roll: :roll: :hammer...

My money is on you finding something that got through the strainer and is binding up the impeller.

Better to head to a motor shop with the motor rather than the pool store.

Find a local motor shop and they can probably rebuild yours for $100 or so.

Can't tell much from the pics but if it's leaking between the motor and the pump you probably have a shaft seal that has gone bad.

I agree with nedchavez, your centrifugal switch is probably hung up. Turn off the breaker, open the back and look at the centrifugal switch. Try to manually operate the switch and if you find it is binding put a little oil on the pivot points. It's worked for me on a couple of motors.

I'd say if you can't turn the impeller by hand you probably have a bearing seized. You may be able to find a local electric motor shop that can rebuild it for much less than a new motor.

Re: Under Construction - Absolute DISASTER. Advice apprecia Tagged to watch.

If the holes in the ports are just jagged or sharp I'd sand them with some fairly fine sand paper (~220 grit) to smooth up the edges.

You could find someone with a tap and die set and have them tap the hole for a screw. :twisted:

One cup of borax should give you about a 0.1 increase in pH. According to http://www.poolcalculator.com/ you should be looking more in the range of 120 oz. to go from 7.0 to 7.5. I strongly recommend ordering a good test kit so you can find out exactly where you stand. It's almost impossible to...

Are you using the little test kit that has you match the color to determine chlorine and pH? If so, that is only useful up to a certain chlorine level (7 ppm, I think). If your chlorine is higher than that the color indicator tends toward an orange/reddish color. Use the DPD test in your kit to...

Oops, I hadn't read the latest posts before my comment. :oops:

I'm gonna guess that the rain is causing air to be forced through a little hole in the vapor barrier under the rocks. Here's a simple test, take a wooden dowel or something similar and drive it through the gravel and puncture the vapor barrier and see if it stops.

The liquid should not be drawn into the pump. The pump is attached to one end of a serological pipette to create a vacuum that draws liquid into the pipette. The "plugged" pipettes have some sort of fiber (looks like cotton) on the end near the pump to help prevent vapor from the liquid from...

If you know the volume of your pool and measure chlorine before and after adding a know amount you can figure it out without buying any extra equipment. Another plus of this method is you are working with larger volumes so small variations in measuring are insignificant.

Into a skimmer works pretty well, too. I like to do that in the hope that any algae that might be hiding out in my filter is gonna get really zapped. :-)

CC= combined chlorine

My pool sits on a hill so I was able to get some 1" pvc pipe and start a siphon. The pipe in the pool was cut off at the level I wanted to drain to so I could leave it unsupervised without worrying that it would drain too much. I used a shop vac to get the siphon started.

pH first, aim for 7.2, then the shock process.

Because you need to replace about 2/3 of your water, your pool would be a good candidate for the drain/refill method described in the last post of this thread: cyanuric-acid-blues-draining-pool-t43843.html

You should get your pH into the low 7s before beginning the shock process.

Re: Green and Cloudy with high chlorine. Pool Stored to dea I get my bleach at Sam's or Walmart. The first thing for you to do is get your pH down to around 7.2 and do a couple of partial drain and refills to get CYA down. Then it's time for the shock process.

I'd suggest ordering a good test kit ( http://tftestkits.net/splash-page.html )and reading "Pool School" while you wait for it to arrive. pool-school/ Once you get your kit you can find out where you stand then go from there.

The strips are not accurate enough, you really need a good test kit (see linen's post above.) Until you know where you are with accurate test results anything you do will simply be a shot in the dark. The surest and least expensive way to get where you want to be is following the shock process...

Your pH is good so the next step is to get your CYA level up to around 20 and bring the chlorine up to shock level. Without some CYA you will use much more chlorine for the shock process. Read this: pool-school/defeating_algae and it will guide you to a sparkling clear pool.