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you can try to bend the pins back carefully, only 2 of the middle pins matter, or you can solder another phone jack to the PCB.

First of all love your bird cage, I would add couple 120mm case fan at the bottom to blow hot air up, you can tap into one of the bridge for the 12V power. Second you have bought the least reliable machine by design that I have worked on, I have replaced hundreds of the PCB (most of them failed...

Genuine Hayward T-940 with 4 year warranty for $550 is a good deal now.

Looks we are making a lot of Progress without the Congress.

All pool company are busy now. If you still have trouble getting them to help you by this weekend, I have the part you need. First move the jumper over, it should go to the default temp. So you can use the machine to generate. But your salinity reading is not temp compensated, so it will be off...

It means the temp sensor inside the cell has failed, the maker of the hardware come up with a way to read temp from flow switch instead. Just call the company that sold you the unit, they will walk you through this procedure.

Below is borrowed from JamesW (Just want to give credit here) For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings. Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings. Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings. Switching the...

Not sure which Intex unit you have, but if you go to their website, some parts are avail. https://intexcorp.com/replacement-parts/krystal-clear-filtration-sanitation/saltwater-systems/15000-gallon-pools-ozone-saltwater-system/2021/26665eg/...

A generic 40,000 gallon unit + salt is well under $1K if you can do the install yourself. I think SWG will have very little effect on the paint job.

Not possible to move the power center by 3 ft?

Just power it on and check the voltage, if you are getting like around 30V, the box could be good, you can try plug in a T-15 cell.

Call the company, they will tell you to move a jumper and send you a flow switch in most cases.

Thank you.

Curious where is the control board memory battery, can you take a picture of the whole board and circle it ?

You can buy a Hayward cleaning stand for most of the circupool products. I believe some of them even comes with a plastic cleaning tools (SJ)

@ajw22 Sorry I thought he was asking my opinion on the other SWG, If you bought the system from amazon, you should have the same factory warranty. I do not under stand why non-OEM replacement Aquarite board is needed. (the OEM boards tend to last 10+ years, you will go through multiple cells...

If you want to drive to Charlotte, I have plenty of generic Hayward stuff, T-15 cell, controller, even variable speed pump.

I think this is the bad design, as I see that happening a lot. You need to replace both male and female of the burned end connection.

940 is an extended life version of the T15 cell. The aquarite generator box is the same, both cell is set to T-15 cell selection. You can replace the board in aquarite instead buying a new box. (most of the time main board is bad, and display board is still working)

If you want name brand, I would pick Hayward and Pentair. If you want generic, just shop for the cheapest (on sale) product. There are only a handful of manufactures for the generic, so if their cell look similar in shape, they are most likely made by the same company.

I would save that cell if Black and White wires are still good (assume cell plates got life left in them) You can certainly use it (or sell it to some one) with a generic setup.

They are the same model number, Circupool should know what version they ordered but they may not tell you. We have a device we hook up to all our customers, that reports all cell performance information back to our office daily. So we know if a cell is having build up or dying, we have detail...

Circupool is an online marketing genius, their cell comes with 5K, 7K and 10K hours rated version, we have many of them in the field and learned that from experience. If you are paying $500 for one, make sure it is rated for 10K hours, other wise the genuine Hayward would be a better buy at...

This is a very clever design yet permanent fix, as you are reading temp from flow switch from this point on, which will allow you use the cell to their full potential. If you buy a new cell some point in the future, you can continue to leave the jumper in the same position or move it back...

You can use circupool cell, I have done it many times with the exact same system you have.

Temp Jumper need to move over 1 position, middle pin is shared with old setting. Your jumper is most likely look like a tiny paint brush, commonly used on old IDE hard drive setting.

One simple way to tell if your flow switch has the temp sensor or not is the thickness of the wire.

There is a Temp jumper you move inside the box, so it read temperature from flow switch instead of inside of a cell. This is specialized flow switch with a thicker 4 wire construction instead of a normal 2 wires. With the existing flow switch, it is missing the 2 extra wires, so temp default to...

@JamesW Thank you so much for the update.

You can use the SWG at 3600 ppm, ideal level is a little less. So you can partially drain the pool and add some fresh water, but no hurry.