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I pay the extra $20 per ticket on Southwest to get the automatic checkin. I'm always in the A group, usually in the top 30.

What I don't like is that a passport isn't good enough to get a Real ID. You also need a document with your SS number and two documents with your address on it. Part of me thinks I'll skip the Real ID and keep using my passport.

Real ID isn't required until May 7, 2025. It's not an issue here.

I would go one step further and determine if it takes the same RPMs to close the SWG switch as it does to keep it closed. It was different RPMs on my last pool. Not having the records anymore, I'll make up some as an example. Gradually slowing the pump, the SWG switch would open at 1000 RPM...

I use the Clorox granular because it's available at the local Walmart. It may be the only acceptable Clorox branded product that you can use in a pool. Based on a post in another thread, I should be looking for it on Amazon.

Part of soft opening is maintaining proper chemistry. As Lake Placid says, you can disconnect a corner of the cover, grab a water sample to test and then make adjustments based on the tests. I don't worry all that much about the chemistry other than FC. I will add some bleach if the FC is low.

My method is not that much different. I just put my utility pump on the first step in the shallow end.

My town uses chloramine to treat their water. Maybe due to fast stock turnover, my local Walmart usually has the freshest chlorine.

I would use sand. If you still need more weight, you could add water after the sand.

Did you glue the spider gasket? I know some people do and some don't. I don't and I've never had a leak after replacement.

I think the CYA test is the most subjective in the test kit. If you stare hard enough, you probably could see the dot. When I first started testing, I bought a standard solution so I would know what I'm looking for during the test. R-7065 CYA Standard 50ppm (2oz)

Is this an academic exercise or is there a reason you want to know the GPM? I don't know the GPM on my pool and it doesn't matter. With a VSP, all I need to know is the RPMs I need to run it for all the equipment to work. The two limiting items on my pool are the SWG and gas heater.

I only had two brands over the years. First one was Hayward. Second and third one was AquaPro. I never had a problem with the AquaPro. I had the last one around 8 years. The only reason I replaced the second one was that I wanted a larger one.

Not only that but unless the pool store is across the street, I bet she could do all the testing in the time it takes to drive to the store, wait for the results and drive home.

I'm glad to see someone in the industry using unions. My pool installer did not add unions on each side of the MPV when they build my pool. I had to cut the PVC pipe on each side and add my own unions when I needed access to the sand filter. One day when at their store, I asked why they didn't...

Unless they're one of those crazy polar bear people, I hold my welcome backs until the water hits 80F.

Does it really? I never knew that. I would clean my SWG once a year before I found TFP. I had one of those stands.

Unless you have a gas heater, you shouldn't worry about CH levels. Keep it near 200 ppm if you do have a heater.

Unless they have a gas heater, then you would want 200 ppm. I don't assume all signatures are complete.

I eat that for breakfast. That must explain why I don't have digestive issues. My pipes are protected.

I've had both a mesh and solid cover. With the mesh cover, I occasionally have to drop a utility pump in to drain down the water from rain. In the spring, there is a fine sediment on the bottom of the pool. With the solid cover, I need to use a utility pump to get rid of the water that builds up...

I don't find doing the tests inside easier. I have a water bottle from the pool store for all my testing. I do all my tests under my gazebo next to the pool. I dump all my tested water into a kids play bucket. This way if I spill a little water, it isn't hurting anything.

You need to stay out of Leslies. There is no way your CH went from 311 to 3126 to 363 in a three day period. You can't trust their testing.

If you leave the test kit in the attached garage this summer, the reagents may go bad from the heat.

Teenage boys? Maybe increase the FC a little bit.

I hate this time of year when the weather is changing a lot from week to week. I have to keep close watch on the FC. Once mid June rolls around, generally don't have to adjust anything to mid-September. This is only my second spring with this pool so I'm still learning what adjustments to the...

I have not done it for clarity of the water. I have used Google Earth for the historical photos so I can see when a pool was built or some other construction was done. For example, I found out my neighbor's house was built on top of once was the drainage pond for the neighborhood.

I overshot my FC by a bit. Today's test shows 13.5 ppm. Five days ago, it hit 1 ppm. I had not yet increased the SWG output from the fall. It was set at 15%. I added a gallon of bleach and tested at 7.5 ppm. At the same time I increased the SWG to 45% which adds 2.8 ppm per day. Time to lower...

That's kind of what I was thinking. The OP is trying to fix the previous person's problem with a leaking MPV.

I'm kind of curious why there is a valve on the backwash pipe.